Hello all,
I have been going through threads and threads for a few days now and I am still no closer to a decision. I have a 2008 Clubman with the boost radio, no upgrade.
What I have learned so far:

1. I will not be upgrading the headunit. I don't want to deal with the lack of being able to program from a dealer or loss of the OBC.
2. I see that most people say upgrade the front speakers first. Okay, perfect. If I do this, I assume I wont need to perform the channel switch?

What I still have questions on is what is the best solution after that? I dont have the option of getting it professionally installed because there are no good installers where I live. I am pretty handy when it comes to things, but...I'll struggle a bit, I am sure of that. But I am willing to do it. (I kinda have no choice, do I? and it is something that I have always wanted to try). So my questions:

1. How is the infinity basslink? Everything I seem to see is for the first generation mini. Will this provide adequate bass? I like to feel my chest thumping
2. If I dont go the powered subwoofer route, how about the under your seat subwoofers?
3. ONce I go into AMP territory, it seems I am also getting into crossover territory..is this true?

Basically, I want as close to an amp and subwoofer sound as I can get in a powered subwoofer that easily fits in the boot or under a seat...and then the next step if I cannot get that is a straight out amp and subwoofer install (But then do I require crossovers?).

Getting a bit expensive and complicated. but I'm willing to put in the time to learn and install. (Other than a drill, a soldering iron, and some torq screws, any other tools I may need?)

Thanks in advance for helping an ambitious girl out!

 

As far as the front/rear channel swap on the base stereo, you will still want to do it, especially if you are upgrading the front speakers. It is not the speakers that is the issue in this case, but that the front channels do not get signals below 100 Hz. So with the swap, it is the rear speakers that do not get the full signal and the fronts will.

I had an Infinity Basslink in my last car, a 2006 Kia Rio, and for the price I was happy with it (~$200). It does a great job of filling in the low end, but it would just barely shake my rear view mirror. Honestly, it sounded like the bass from a good stock system with built-in sub. It was not a chest thumper.

I would think that most slim subs would perform about the same, good low fill but not chest pounding.

As far as crossovers for a sub, most mono amps will come with a low pass crossover built in. After Christmas I purchased the gear for my sub install, which should take place this weekend unless the weather does not warm up like expected. I went with a 12" Polk MM1240DVC sub, Atrend E12S box, and Alpine MRP-M500 amp. That, with 20 square feet of sound deadening (eDead 80), 4 gauge wiring kit, Acousta-stuf, and subwoofer grille ran right around $400. I could have cut some corners (more than I already had) and shaved off about $50 - $100, but that was the price point that I was comfortable with.

As far as tools for a sub install, not really all the much is needed beyond a screwdriver, wrench, torx bits, soldering iron, a coat hanger or fish tape, drill, and knife.

Good luck!

 

Maurtis Thanks so much for your input.
Your description of the infiinity basslink was very valuable, because I do want a little rearview mirror shake and a a little chest thumping.

Hopefully the weather will cooperate with you this weekend, because $400 is a decent investment for me for an amp and subwoofer.
Please let me know how it all sounds and if you get that good bass sound out of it.

Also, pics would be sincerely appreciated.

Thanks!

 

Will do!

 

I think this is backwards. The set-up from the factory is that the full-range signal goes to the front speakers and a clipped signal to the rears. If you are replacing your front speakers you would want to keep it this way. If you decide to add a sub, you would also want to tap into the signal for the front speakers.

 

I've had a Basslink several years ago. It performed very well in the trunk of the car I was using it in at the time (a '99 Civic Si). That car got broken into and the basslink was stolen. Soon after that, I sold the whole car.

The bottom line is, in the short time I had it, my experience with the Basslink was a very good one. HOWEVER, I have read numerous reports since then that they are prone to failure over time...usually right after the warantee period (Don't you just love that?) Go to Crutchfield's site and read the customer reviews... I would say, if you do buy one, spring for an extended warantee!

Beyond that, while it is a compact unit as far as subs go, it is still a roughly 1 ft. by 1 ft. block that you'll have to strap, or otherwise secure, into your hatch in a way that it can still be easily removed for cargo-duty. There's no way this will fit anywhere else in the car. This aspect may persuade you to start looking at other options.

You may want to also consider the "Sound Ordinance" flat powered sub that Crutchfield sells. It's smaller and fits better in the car, it's cheaper than the Basslink, there are no known reliability issues, and it actually performs at roughly the same level as the Basslink...again, referencing Crutch's customer reviews (which is amazing for a unit this small).

 

In a recent post, Kevin from Integral Audio posted that the limitation on the stock Boost (non-hifi) radio is to the rears: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...48-post11.html

"1) HiFi signal from HU to Amp is flat and unmodified. You can tap anywhere in front of the X10266 (amp connector). Do NOT pull the signal AFTER it leaves the amp.

2) Standard audio signal (Boost/Wave) to rears is artificially limited (in the HU) below about 100Hz. "

 

That's what I'm saying...why would you want to do the front/rear swap and move the clipped signals to the front if you are installing new front speakers? Leave the clipped signals at the rear where the cruddy speakers are.

 

Ah, you are absolutely right, I was reading/thinking about it that backwards. Apparently the swap helps with the regular speakers, but I think you are right about not doing the swap with upgraded fronts. D'oh! LOL

 

Yeah, I did the swap a couple of weeks ago (with stock speakers) and it made a substantial difference. My project for this weekend is to install some component speakers in the doors, so now I'm going to have to undo the swap. Should be easier 2nd time around, now that I know what I am looking at!

 

okay so now I am a bit confused. I actually picked the car up this weekend.
Yes, the front speakers have most of the volume and the bass. The rears almost sound like there is nothing there.
So....
I"m thinking about replacing the rears, as I don't like to have the sound up in the front. I always had my fader adjust with more power the the rears.

HOWEVER, just hearing the little bass thump that the fronts provided is making me really really want to move forward with the amp and subwoofer install.

So, If I am planning all of that..should I bother with the channel swap? (I'd keep the front speakers and replace the rears)

 

Okay, now that I looked this up, I'm even more up in the air.
I wonder if this little guy would be good enough?
Reading some of the reviews of the mini stock system, I was exepcting it to be tinny and unbearable. It's actually pretty decent for a stock system. I do want to be able to turn it up louder with no distortion and I also want more bass.
But since I am going to have to do this by myself, a powered subwoofer just may be the way to go and will provide me with "Enough" bass to keep me happy.
Thanks for the tip!

 

As far as slimline powered subs, a few NAM members are also using the Boss BASS600. It looks like they also make a Boss BASS1500 as well, but there are some poor reviews on Amazon regarding reliability.

The reviews on the Crutchfield site look good for the Sound Ordnance B-8PT. It would be nice if would fit under one of the front seats, but I think it would be little too tall...

 

Rina, you want the Boss BASS600 >PERIOD<. It slots right into the spare wheel well! Check out my gallery I'm pretty sure pics are there.

There's a pretty good thread with all the details you need to know to get that bass wired up in the trunk; it will get power from the 12v back there, the only wires you run are the audio signal wires from the driver-side all the way to the back tucked under the interior trim.

 

found two pics showing the splicing involved (with more reading you'll find out you can build an 'adapter'...)



and

 

Read that guy's post on why you should not swap. It's what your ears actually hear that matters. You hear best with the front speakers. I was a swapper, then an unswapper. He was right.

It's not that hard to swap the rears either.

 

I meant to say change out the rears, with new ones.