Classic Mini Owner's Experience
Classic Mini Owner's Experience
I'm new to this forum, looking for people's general owner experience on their Mini. Reliability, mechanic repair cost, maintainence cost, parts availability, cost of parts, general operating cost, fun factor, how hard to work on, etc.
I'm considering buying one and have no experience with them. I've worked on import cars (older VW)for the last 20 years so I think I could fix most things myself. However I don't want to be working on it 24/7 if you know what I mean. This would be my extra car, so no biggie if it broke down every once in a while.
What are the best years, any buying advice you could give me, DMV registration issues, smog issues, etc? I live in SoCal, looking for something fun and interesting to drive.
Thanks!
I'm considering buying one and have no experience with them. I've worked on import cars (older VW)for the last 20 years so I think I could fix most things myself. However I don't want to be working on it 24/7 if you know what I mean. This would be my extra car, so no biggie if it broke down every once in a while.
What are the best years, any buying advice you could give me, DMV registration issues, smog issues, etc? I live in SoCal, looking for something fun and interesting to drive.
Thanks!
I've owned my '73 MKIII for about 2-1/2 years. When I bought it it was a project car, so there was the expectation that I would be dumping some $$ into it to get it drivable. Here's my thoughts:
Reliablilty: I can't comment so much since I've fixed or replaced just about everything since I bought it.
Parts cost: nearly all parts are purchased at a premium compared to your typical project car, largely due to the fact that all parts have to be shipped across the pond to get to the US suppliers. This combined with the fact that there are such few classic Mini parts distributors means parts costs are high.
Parts availability: a lot of wear items like brake parts, engine parts, and suspension parts are readily available. Interior trim and other non-wear items is often NLA (no longer available). I recently upgraded my front disc brakes. That in itself was not a big job but during the swap I found out that the master cylinder was failing, and it is NLA. So I had to swap in a newer M/C which required me to make new hard lines. Similarly I needed to replace my ignition key cylinder (actually the electrical switch behind the cylinder), and found that it's no longer available. To retain my steering column with integrated key cylinder I had to buy an MG ignition switch (also British Leyland electrics) disassemble it, then reassemble it with the Mini key cylinder.
Fun factor: I can't say for a stock classic Mini, but for a modified one they can be a blast to drive. They're not the fastest thing on the street, not by a long shot, but they can corner at full speed.
How hard to work on: With only a handful of hand tools you can work on any part of a classic Mini. I have a very modest set of tools and I can do anything to my Mini within reason. The only Mini-specific tool I've purchased is the ball-joint separator, and I've used it a half a dozen times.
I use my Mini as one of three cars, so when the weather is nice and I need to go somewhere that doesn't require me to carry a bunch of stuff, I take the Mini. I don't drive it in the rain (I live in Phoenix) and it's garaged whenever I'm not driving it. Without a doubt, it's the most expensive $5000 car I've ever owned, and I've owned a lot of vehicles.
Hope it helps,
Jeff
Reliablilty: I can't comment so much since I've fixed or replaced just about everything since I bought it.
Parts cost: nearly all parts are purchased at a premium compared to your typical project car, largely due to the fact that all parts have to be shipped across the pond to get to the US suppliers. This combined with the fact that there are such few classic Mini parts distributors means parts costs are high.
Parts availability: a lot of wear items like brake parts, engine parts, and suspension parts are readily available. Interior trim and other non-wear items is often NLA (no longer available). I recently upgraded my front disc brakes. That in itself was not a big job but during the swap I found out that the master cylinder was failing, and it is NLA. So I had to swap in a newer M/C which required me to make new hard lines. Similarly I needed to replace my ignition key cylinder (actually the electrical switch behind the cylinder), and found that it's no longer available. To retain my steering column with integrated key cylinder I had to buy an MG ignition switch (also British Leyland electrics) disassemble it, then reassemble it with the Mini key cylinder.
Fun factor: I can't say for a stock classic Mini, but for a modified one they can be a blast to drive. They're not the fastest thing on the street, not by a long shot, but they can corner at full speed.
How hard to work on: With only a handful of hand tools you can work on any part of a classic Mini. I have a very modest set of tools and I can do anything to my Mini within reason. The only Mini-specific tool I've purchased is the ball-joint separator, and I've used it a half a dozen times.
I use my Mini as one of three cars, so when the weather is nice and I need to go somewhere that doesn't require me to carry a bunch of stuff, I take the Mini. I don't drive it in the rain (I live in Phoenix) and it's garaged whenever I'm not driving it. Without a doubt, it's the most expensive $5000 car I've ever owned, and I've owned a lot of vehicles.
Hope it helps,
Jeff
reference - I've had my 79 for hmmm 6 or 7 years now; it is my toy and driven on weekends usually to car shows. I used it for a VERY short time as my daily driver shortly after retirement and moving to Fl
- the Mini is the late 1950's British equiv'lnt of the Chevy VEGA....built at minimum cost in minimum size to feed the masses. While VEGA failed, Mini became an icon but everything that was bad about the Vega is there in the Mini - very nearly so anyway. Minis began to rust during the assembly process. The engine is tiny but Mini had this accidental handling that was a base to work with.
- you will run into the occasional person who uses a classic Mini as their daily driver. You'll probably in the world find someone who uses a Model T as their daily driver. They are exceptions to the rule. Driven little I still sink about 1000 a year into my 79, some of that is necessary repair, some is toy uprade. To take a Mini on a modern highway .... well you may as well be riding a Harley cuz you'll get about the same amount of protection in a crash. I have a 6 point roll cage for self defense, not bling. But if you are an ol' VW guy you know this.
- Because Mini was made into year 2000 parts are readily available for the most part. Just for grins you can look around at MiniMania.com and Moss has a classic Mini section. Heck, you can buy an entire new body shell today and just build your own Mini from the ground up.....everything is available within reason....
- Mini stopped being legal in the US in what 1966???? As you may know from VW anything 25 years or older may be imported to the US no questins asked by DOT (agriculture is another thing). Mini was produced into 2000. MANY Mini you see for sale will be listed as something like "1971 upgraded to 1992 spec". What that MEANS is it is a 1992 that someone popped the VIN plate off and pop rivited a VIN from a junked 1971 onto to get it into the country. Customs didn't catch it and it has a title in the US (as a former DHS employee it is embarrasing to see how many of these there are in the country but I guess finding an illegal Ferrari got one a larger bonus
.) For the most part this car will be OK in the US because you have a title. If you plan to actually import a re-vin be advised that Customs DOES catch this on occasion and if they do wave bye-bye to the car and probably your $$. My advice is don't try to import a re-vin.
- Later Mini (read re-vin) have fuel injected engines and 'modern' computer control engine managment systems. Unlike today's vehicles they do not follow the 'industry standard' computer diagnostic systems. Very few mechanics in the US have the diagnostic tools for the later Mini computer engine management systems. Some buyers of injected Minis toss in the towel and rip it all out and convert the car to carbs.
- A mid to late 70's Mini that is NOT an earlier re-vin should be carb'd and is my recommendation. IME expect to pay upwards of $7k for something ready to drive today and upwards if it is something special. 2010 - 25 = 1985 so there's your break point for a legal import from over the ocean
- best to learn a little about Mini and the models .... the Cooper and Cooper S are the ones everyone wants. Just like a real 1966 GT-350 Shelby Mustang. Best to learn what years they were actually made as many think every Mini was a Cooper (they are in the MINI but not in the Mini. At shows my sign says 1979 not a Cooper) Also, Min was made in many different countries with varying amounts of local parts versus British factory parts. Easiest example is the Italian Innocenti Mini. Probably like the late Mexican VW bugs.....
- lastly: you're in Cal? As you know the rules are different there (I lived in the Bay area for a couple of years). I think the state has a 30 year rule for emmisions standard exemptions and some other hoops for registration - again as a VW guy you perhaps are already familiar.
- p.s. look at Barnes or Borders for MiniWorld magazine - they often have it..or google and subscribe. Good sites to watch prices are
MiniMania.com and turkys.com (IMHO)
(turkys is high but watch for changes....)
- the Mini is the late 1950's British equiv'lnt of the Chevy VEGA....built at minimum cost in minimum size to feed the masses. While VEGA failed, Mini became an icon but everything that was bad about the Vega is there in the Mini - very nearly so anyway. Minis began to rust during the assembly process. The engine is tiny but Mini had this accidental handling that was a base to work with.
- you will run into the occasional person who uses a classic Mini as their daily driver. You'll probably in the world find someone who uses a Model T as their daily driver. They are exceptions to the rule. Driven little I still sink about 1000 a year into my 79, some of that is necessary repair, some is toy uprade. To take a Mini on a modern highway .... well you may as well be riding a Harley cuz you'll get about the same amount of protection in a crash. I have a 6 point roll cage for self defense, not bling. But if you are an ol' VW guy you know this.
- Because Mini was made into year 2000 parts are readily available for the most part. Just for grins you can look around at MiniMania.com and Moss has a classic Mini section. Heck, you can buy an entire new body shell today and just build your own Mini from the ground up.....everything is available within reason....
- Mini stopped being legal in the US in what 1966???? As you may know from VW anything 25 years or older may be imported to the US no questins asked by DOT (agriculture is another thing). Mini was produced into 2000. MANY Mini you see for sale will be listed as something like "1971 upgraded to 1992 spec". What that MEANS is it is a 1992 that someone popped the VIN plate off and pop rivited a VIN from a junked 1971 onto to get it into the country. Customs didn't catch it and it has a title in the US (as a former DHS employee it is embarrasing to see how many of these there are in the country but I guess finding an illegal Ferrari got one a larger bonus
.) For the most part this car will be OK in the US because you have a title. If you plan to actually import a re-vin be advised that Customs DOES catch this on occasion and if they do wave bye-bye to the car and probably your $$. My advice is don't try to import a re-vin.- Later Mini (read re-vin) have fuel injected engines and 'modern' computer control engine managment systems. Unlike today's vehicles they do not follow the 'industry standard' computer diagnostic systems. Very few mechanics in the US have the diagnostic tools for the later Mini computer engine management systems. Some buyers of injected Minis toss in the towel and rip it all out and convert the car to carbs.
- A mid to late 70's Mini that is NOT an earlier re-vin should be carb'd and is my recommendation. IME expect to pay upwards of $7k for something ready to drive today and upwards if it is something special. 2010 - 25 = 1985 so there's your break point for a legal import from over the ocean
- best to learn a little about Mini and the models .... the Cooper and Cooper S are the ones everyone wants. Just like a real 1966 GT-350 Shelby Mustang. Best to learn what years they were actually made as many think every Mini was a Cooper (they are in the MINI but not in the Mini. At shows my sign says 1979 not a Cooper) Also, Min was made in many different countries with varying amounts of local parts versus British factory parts. Easiest example is the Italian Innocenti Mini. Probably like the late Mexican VW bugs.....
- lastly: you're in Cal? As you know the rules are different there (I lived in the Bay area for a couple of years). I think the state has a 30 year rule for emmisions standard exemptions and some other hoops for registration - again as a VW guy you perhaps are already familiar.
- p.s. look at Barnes or Borders for MiniWorld magazine - they often have it..or google and subscribe. Good sites to watch prices are
MiniMania.com and turkys.com (IMHO)
(turkys is high but watch for changes....)
Everyone,
Thanks for all the info. What a great forum!
I think here in SoCal pre 1975 cars are smog exempt, so that's what I'll be looking for.
I was thinking about finding one locally or worst case in the south western US. I assume bringing in cars from different states is hassle free?
I guess reliablity is an issue so maybe a daily driver would be a stretch.
Thanks for all the info. What a great forum!
I think here in SoCal pre 1975 cars are smog exempt, so that's what I'll be looking for.
I was thinking about finding one locally or worst case in the south western US. I assume bringing in cars from different states is hassle free?
I guess reliablity is an issue so maybe a daily driver would be a stretch.
I assume bringing in cars from different states is hassle free?
From what I've experienced and read about CA this is NOT .. repeat NOT true.
Just because it was ok in the rest of the 49 does not matter in CA.
But you can ask Arn' about that
From what I've experienced and read about CA this is NOT .. repeat NOT true.
Just because it was ok in the rest of the 49 does not matter in CA.
But you can ask Arn' about that
As far as finding a Mini; I looked for about 9 months in the SouthWest (CA, NV, AZ, CO, NM, TX) and only found a couple of Minis worth considering. I ended up taking a gamble and drove the 10 hours to Ojai with truck and trailer to look at the Mini before I bought it. Knowing what I know now I would not even consider buying a classic Mini without seeing it first. I didn't get burned by my purchase but these cars are so cancer prone you will get burned if you don't look at the potential purchase first. I finally found mine by watching the CarsForSale postings here: http://www.minimania.com/Cars4Sale_list.cfm
Good luck and let us know what you find!
Jeff
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well i live in ca and my mini is a 67 as long at the vin matches the title your good to go. women walked out checked the vin to the title and said cool car and gave me my plates, easy as that but im not sure if its 75 and older i would call the dmv or check it out on the net. as far as dd with a mini i say dont do it. **** i wont even take the mini the the freeway the ****er revs wayyyyy to high id be at like 5k rpm in the slow lane
but that might just be my trans. well good luck
oh and as far as reliable my dd is 96 bmw 328i with 100k and my mini has been more reliable and i drive it more
i only use the bmw to take my little one to school as its really boring to drive now
but that might just be my trans. well good luckoh and as far as reliable my dd is 96 bmw 328i with 100k and my mini has been more reliable and i drive it more
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