Suspension H sport springs/rdr rear sway bar install ....
I just thought I'd start a thread here where I can talk about my experiences installing the H sport springs and RDR rear swaybar install.
I got everything from Helix, prompt delivery and with no issues so far.
I decided the weather was nice enough that I'd go ahead and do the front springs by myself tonight, so that tomorrow night wouldn't take so long.
Started with the passenger side, jacked up the car and put a jackstand under the stock jacking point.
Removed the lower strut bolt, loosened the three top nuts, and removed the wires from the strut body.
Gave a firm push on top of the brake disc, and the strut popped out of the bottom.
Noticed that my front swaybar was attached to the strut (this is not in the how-to as far as I can remember.)
Removed the swaybar endlink from the strut, using a spark plug socket, a 5mm allen wrench, and an adjustable wrench on the hex on the spark plug socket. This was probably the hardest part, well, this plus putting it back on.
Put the jack under the lower a arm and raised the hub until I could easily slide the sway bar end link out, then lowered the jack.
Removed the top three nuts completely, and wiggled out the strut assembly.
I used two very old c-clamp style spring compressors, which just BARELY work. Ideally, something a little thinner that could bite 3 coils vs. the 2 that mine bite would be much better.
Used a large spark plug socket, an allen wrench, and a big adjustable wrench to remove the top nut. It was VERY tight, and I ended up putting a box-end wrench on the allen wrench for leverage.
Removed all of the top assembly, removed the old spring, and removed the compressors from the spring.
I cut the white rubber bump stop down and put the new bump stop inside it. Then put the boot back on it, and put the entire thing back on the strut shaft.
Put the H sport spring on, verified that it was seated correctly, put the top seat assembly on, and then leaned on the top plate and started the strut top nut (using the allen to hold the shaft).
At this point I realized that I didn't get the top pieces aligned very well, and so I had to remove them and try again. (Oops)
Got the strut back together, and put it back in the car by starting the top three nuts, then putting it into the a arm, jacking up the a arm, installing the lower bolt, tightening the upper bolts, and then using the spark plug socket/allen/adjustable wrench combination to re-attach the sway bar.
Put the wheel back on, lowered the car, and went to the other side.
The only difference here was that the strut didn't come out as easy from the a arm, I "persuaded" it with a rubber mallet applied firmly to the top of the brake disc.
Total time, including tool clean up and washing up myself, was 2.5 hours. At least 45 minutes was wasted trying to figure out the best way to remove the spring from the strut.
I didn't go test drive it since it has new front springs and old rear springs, but tomorrow I'm driving over to a guys house and we'll do the rear springs and the swaybar.
So far, it all seems to be pretty good!
Travis
I got everything from Helix, prompt delivery and with no issues so far.
I decided the weather was nice enough that I'd go ahead and do the front springs by myself tonight, so that tomorrow night wouldn't take so long.
Started with the passenger side, jacked up the car and put a jackstand under the stock jacking point.
Removed the lower strut bolt, loosened the three top nuts, and removed the wires from the strut body.
Gave a firm push on top of the brake disc, and the strut popped out of the bottom.
Noticed that my front swaybar was attached to the strut (this is not in the how-to as far as I can remember.)
Removed the swaybar endlink from the strut, using a spark plug socket, a 5mm allen wrench, and an adjustable wrench on the hex on the spark plug socket. This was probably the hardest part, well, this plus putting it back on.
Put the jack under the lower a arm and raised the hub until I could easily slide the sway bar end link out, then lowered the jack.
Removed the top three nuts completely, and wiggled out the strut assembly.
I used two very old c-clamp style spring compressors, which just BARELY work. Ideally, something a little thinner that could bite 3 coils vs. the 2 that mine bite would be much better.
Used a large spark plug socket, an allen wrench, and a big adjustable wrench to remove the top nut. It was VERY tight, and I ended up putting a box-end wrench on the allen wrench for leverage.
Removed all of the top assembly, removed the old spring, and removed the compressors from the spring.
I cut the white rubber bump stop down and put the new bump stop inside it. Then put the boot back on it, and put the entire thing back on the strut shaft.
Put the H sport spring on, verified that it was seated correctly, put the top seat assembly on, and then leaned on the top plate and started the strut top nut (using the allen to hold the shaft).
At this point I realized that I didn't get the top pieces aligned very well, and so I had to remove them and try again. (Oops)
Got the strut back together, and put it back in the car by starting the top three nuts, then putting it into the a arm, jacking up the a arm, installing the lower bolt, tightening the upper bolts, and then using the spark plug socket/allen/adjustable wrench combination to re-attach the sway bar.
Put the wheel back on, lowered the car, and went to the other side.
The only difference here was that the strut didn't come out as easy from the a arm, I "persuaded" it with a rubber mallet applied firmly to the top of the brake disc.
Total time, including tool clean up and washing up myself, was 2.5 hours. At least 45 minutes was wasted trying to figure out the best way to remove the spring from the strut.
I didn't go test drive it since it has new front springs and old rear springs, but tomorrow I'm driving over to a guys house and we'll do the rear springs and the swaybar.
So far, it all seems to be pretty good!
Travis
To finish up the long post above, Friday night we put the RDR rear swaybar in and the rear H sport springs. Total time took about 2 hours, with three of us working on it (and air tools!)
The verdict? While I haven't gotten to go hit any real twisties yet (winter storm warning in NC today) I did get a couple hours of driving in yesterday, and it feels incredible. I have the bar set on the middle setting right now, and the car feels neutral. I'm running 215/45-17s all the way around, and I am getting a very slight rub on the driver's side rear when the suspension compresses fully (like going through a 'dip' on the freeway. Looking at the tire, it is very minor. I don't think it is going to be an issue, and I think it will go away pretty soon, when I move the front tire to the back (the front tire is more worn on the outside shoulder already).
Regardless, so far I give it a good rating.
If anyone has any questions about the install, let me know.
The verdict? While I haven't gotten to go hit any real twisties yet (winter storm warning in NC today) I did get a couple hours of driving in yesterday, and it feels incredible. I have the bar set on the middle setting right now, and the car feels neutral. I'm running 215/45-17s all the way around, and I am getting a very slight rub on the driver's side rear when the suspension compresses fully (like going through a 'dip' on the freeway. Looking at the tire, it is very minor. I don't think it is going to be an issue, and I think it will go away pretty soon, when I move the front tire to the back (the front tire is more worn on the outside shoulder already).
Regardless, so far I give it a good rating.
If anyone has any questions about the install, let me know.
I can't measure it, but there is definitely more than there was before. Not so much it looks silly, but you can tell.
Actually, if there wasn't the additional negative camber, I'm sure I'd have more rubbing problems.
I think it is a good thing, though. I tend to wear out my tires from the outside in, this should slow that down a bit.
I might get front and rear adjustable camber pieces next winter, though. Mainly to dial in more negative for the front.
Actually, if there wasn't the additional negative camber, I'm sure I'd have more rubbing problems.
I think it is a good thing, though. I tend to wear out my tires from the outside in, this should slow that down a bit.
I might get front and rear adjustable camber pieces next winter, though. Mainly to dial in more negative for the front.
Thanks Yellow
I'm installing the H-sport "Sport Package" this weekend so this thread will help. any other recomendations for the install?
I'm installing the H-sport "Sport Package" this weekend so this thread will help. any other recomendations for the install?
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Nothing really. Feel free to PM me here if you run into a problem, I'll be on and off most of the day.
With a couple of helpers it isn't too bad a job, once you figure out how to get the end caps off of the front struts.
With a couple of helpers it isn't too bad a job, once you figure out how to get the end caps off of the front struts.
Yellow, anybody else
Just installed the H-sport "sport" package (F&R sway bars, tower brace, and springs) took it for a small test drive noticed a thunking somewhat midline (feels like its right next to gas pedal) over small bumps at about 10 mph only drove it about 1 block. Its about 10 p.m. here and haven't taken it apart to check, will do tommorrow but was seeing if anyone had a clue on what it might be. suspension settling, swaybar shifting, loose engine mount, loose bolts are our thoughts but won't check till tommorrow any suggestions on what we should look for?
Just installed the H-sport "sport" package (F&R sway bars, tower brace, and springs) took it for a small test drive noticed a thunking somewhat midline (feels like its right next to gas pedal) over small bumps at about 10 mph only drove it about 1 block. Its about 10 p.m. here and haven't taken it apart to check, will do tommorrow but was seeing if anyone had a clue on what it might be. suspension settling, swaybar shifting, loose engine mount, loose bolts are our thoughts but won't check till tommorrow any suggestions on what we should look for?
Just off the top of my head, I would make sure the front strut bolts are tight. The ones you had to use the spark plug socket/allen wrench combo on. Check those, check the three bolts that hold the strut into the strut tower, and check that the lower strut 'clamp' is tight. I had some trouble at first getting the driver's side strut back into the clamp all the way. It could be slipping.
I didn't do the front swaybar, but you should probably also check that everything there is tight and it is centered perfectly.
Hope this helps!
I didn't do the front swaybar, but you should probably also check that everything there is tight and it is centered perfectly.
Hope this helps!
>>Just off the top of my head, I would make sure the front strut bolts are tight. The ones you had to use the spark plug socket/allen wrench combo on. Check those, check the three bolts that hold the strut into the strut tower, and check that the lower strut 'clamp' is tight. I had some trouble at first getting the driver's side strut back into the clamp all the way. It could be slipping.
>>
Also make sure that you didn't forget the large washers under the front strut nuts. Otherwise, the nut runs out of threads, feels tight but isn't. I've had the front struts apart at least 5 times with different set ups and mine still makes a little noise over small sharp bumps. There be some play somewhere!
>>
Also make sure that you didn't forget the large washers under the front strut nuts. Otherwise, the nut runs out of threads, feels tight but isn't. I've had the front struts apart at least 5 times with different set ups and mine still makes a little noise over small sharp bumps. There be some play somewhere!
Thanks Yellow and blue for your help
I went under the car again the next day. most of the bolts were tight or only took half turn to tighten. it ended up being the drop link on the passenger side the top not the bottom one. tighten it up and no problem. The car still sounds harsh at certain bumps not sure if its the way its supposed to sound ( I know ride will be harsher and bumps etc but not sure if it sounds right) I installed the bumps stops that came with the camber plates and not the springs (I should probably install the spring one) any suggestions??? The guy that helped me does work on Mustangs and has only done this with kits that the spring and shock are separate. He is not used to the coil over type(stock MCS) suspension. So he is not sure on spec.s for the MCS.
Blue what did you do to adjust??? Is the nut supposed to be all the way down and adjust it up??? ( we put ours all the way down) or did you put on more washers?
I went under the car again the next day. most of the bolts were tight or only took half turn to tighten. it ended up being the drop link on the passenger side the top not the bottom one. tighten it up and no problem. The car still sounds harsh at certain bumps not sure if its the way its supposed to sound ( I know ride will be harsher and bumps etc but not sure if it sounds right) I installed the bumps stops that came with the camber plates and not the springs (I should probably install the spring one) any suggestions??? The guy that helped me does work on Mustangs and has only done this with kits that the spring and shock are separate. He is not used to the coil over type(stock MCS) suspension. So he is not sure on spec.s for the MCS.
Blue what did you do to adjust??? Is the nut supposed to be all the way down and adjust it up??? ( we put ours all the way down) or did you put on more washers?
>>Also make sure that you didn't forget the large washers under the front strut nuts. Otherwise, the nut runs out of threads, feels tight but isn't. I've had the front struts apart at least 5 times with different set ups and mine still makes a little noise over small sharp bumps. There be some play somewhere!
Which washers, Blue?
Which washers, Blue?
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