I think I have found my mysterious noise. I pulled the engine and all looks good with the new release bearing but when I grabbed the flywheel I can rotate it about 1/4 of an inch each direction. I can also move it a little laterally. I tightened the center bolt but still have the slack and can feel it pick up the slack on the primary gear. Any suggestions on how to fix this?

 

Dpepends on what's wrong......are you sure the bolt is all the way in, not just tight?

Were the threads on the bolt damaged at all? How about the threads in the crank?

A local club member had a strange noise in his clutch area too, and when we pulled the flywheel discovered a bolt with damaged threads, making me think it backed out a bit then galled, as it felt tight when he tried to remove it. Right now he's going to run a bottom tap of the right size (5/8-16?) into the crank and try to clean up the threads to make sure the bolt is going in all the way - oh and he bought a new flywheel bolt and retaining washer too.

 

When I installed the flywheel previously, I put in a new bolt and retaining washer. When I pulled it this time and noticed the loose flywheel, I tried to tighten the bolt and got about a quarter of an inch on it with max torque. I am in process of pulling the flywheel but it is is really stuck. Just stripped my puller and have to get a new one tomorrow. I am hoping that I have not screwed the crank. Once I get the flywheel off I will post what I find. I will also geta tap and try that.
Thanks

 

This one is hard to believe, I removed the FW and then the pressure plate. What I found was unreal, there was a bolt that backed out of the pressure plate and was floating around the clutch disk springs. I think I found the noise. See attached photos. Loc Tite will be my best friend on this one.
Butch

 

Very interesting.....

We found some threads from a bolt lodged in one of the springs on our local club member's car, we think they came from the flywheel bolt, now I'm not so sure.

Thanks for posting what you found, I'm going to link this thread to our club member.....

 

That looks like a Verto type fly wheel and plate..........you may need to use a very fine emery paper and some lapping in paste on the end of the crank..........

 

I should also add that I checked and all the bolts holding the flywheen on the crank flange were loose. It appears that someone before me put in a new clutch/FW and no lock tite. I did find that the threads were messed up on the one that got loose so I am in the hunt today for a die or new bolt.
I plan to take some emory cloth to the end of the crank. This engine was built by Speedwell in England and I think the crank had these rough spots when they installed it. My wife is English so I can say, you know how the english built some things. If you ever have a couple hours to laugh, give me a call and I will tell you about an adjustable hidraulic suspension system they installed. 64 wires to 4 switches and no solder.
Thanks to everyone for the replies.
Butch

 

What seems to have happen is the shaft that is splines has stripped. This occurs when it is stressed or well used. Replacement is necessary.

 

I doubt that this European car has any 5/8-16 (SAE) bolts in it.
Surely it is METRIC !
Check carefully as you don't want to ruin the threads on a crankshaft...
BM

 

I am not sure what shaft you are referring to that has splines that may have stripped. Could you explain? I did pull the flywheel again and found that the end float in the primary gear was above the max tolerance and I put in a new C ring that brought it below the max tolerance and I also replaced the clutch shaft that had a lot of play. Started the engine and the noise is now almost unnoticable. Still when I press in the clutch, the noise goes away. Since I have a newly rebuilt tranny and was very careful with the end float on the idler gear, I feel like the noise is related to the clutch in some way. I am going to drive it and see if anything fly apart, then I will know where the problem lies. I checked with multiple mini folks and have been told that the crank thread is a 5/8 16 and the tap cost about $36. Leave it to the English.