Hi all,

I picked up a center speedo/instrumentation binnacle at MiniMeetEast this weekend and am prepping the installation on my 1992 Mini Sprite (currently equipped with the fugly, square, right-side Clubman gauges).

The (used) center binnavle I bought has the central speedo, as well as a fuel gauge, a water temp gauge and an oil pressure gauge. I assume (dangerous word, that) that I can use the existing leads from the fuel and water temp gauges (please disabuse me of this assumption if you think this is not so), but I'm at a loss for how I hook up the oil pressure gauge, seeing as how my car as it stands now does NOT have such a gauge. As far as I know, all I have is the standard red warning light if I have low oil pressure (this is a total assumption, as I'm really **** about checking my fluids and have never run lower than 1/3 quart low the entire time I've owned the car).

So... Do you think I have a sender unit, and that it's either disconnected or just connected to the assumed low-pressure idiot light? How do I check, and get the car ready for installation of the oil pressure gauge?

Thanks in advance as always...

 

Refer to the attached picture. My engine is a 1275 block FWIW. The circled area shows a 4' braided line connecting the block to my oil pressure gauge. Not sure if your new gauge is mechanical or electrical, but if it's mechanical then there's no sensor ... just a capillary tube from the block to the gauge. If it's an electric gauge then there'll require a sender to be threaded into the block, then wiring connecting the sender to the gauge.

The picture's just to show you how it _can_ be connected. My setup is using an AutoMeter mechanical oil pressure gauge with a 4' -4 AN stainless steel braided line from Summit Racing. If your gauge is a Smiths gauge then other members here can probably advise on the proper connection.

Cheers,
Jeff

 

JeffM has it right, look at the back of the oil gauge, if it has an open threaded fitting on the back, you need an oil line from the engine to the gauge - this was the common way for them to be hooked up back in the day and probably how yours needs to be done. Find the oil pressure sending unit on your car and simply add a T-fitting to it, then use the other opening to plumb the oil pipe to the gauge. You can buy the oil pipe from one of the Mini parts vendors, and I'll bet they'll have the T as well. Or, you can simply eliminate the light and run the gauge only by taking the electric sender out and plumbing the gauge direct to the same place you removed the sender from. IIRC the sender is right above the oil filter boss......sometimes they're on the end of the cylinder head.

In this pic the oil pressure sender for the idiot light is just above and to the left of the distributor, sticking straight out of the block...

 

I checked and yes, it's an original Smith's gauge. On the back is a threaded brass fitting.

I also eyeballed the block, and here's what I see (shot taken from the RIGHT side of the vehicle, looking inboard):



Apologies in advance for the state of the engine - this is no pampered trailer queen, obviously...

The wired plug looks like the wrench end of a spark plug - is this the oil pressure sender unit?

If so, how do I tap into this plug such that I retain the electrical connection (if needed - I assume it will light the red
ignition" light if pressure is low) and also add in the mechanical connection required by the old gauge? Is this where I'd use the "T" gauge you mentioned, or is that an ELECTRICAL junction?

LMK if you need a photo of the back of the oil pressure gauge to confirm the mechanical hookup.

Thanks as always!!!!

 

You need a T-fitting, that will screw into the block in place of the oil sending pressure unit (Yes, that's it in your pic) then you plumb one end of the oil pipe into the T and screw the oil pressure sending unit into the other, that way your idiot light will still work (although you don't really need it anymore as the gauge will tell you far more accurately what's going on) and the gauge will also work. Take the other end of the oil pipe up to the gauge and hook it up to the gauge. I believe the thread size is simply 1/8 pipe thread.

You need to buy a T, a 1/8 close and the oil pipe to the gauge. Like I said before, whichever Mini parts place sells the oil pipe will most probably have everything else you need to do this too.

 

Awesome - this makes sense to me. I'll call aorund for the parts.

Thanks!

 

7Enterprises had everything - about $48 plus shipping for everything (including a nice braided stainless oil line for a bit o' bling). Thanks for all the help - I'll let you know how it goes.

 

If you had ever encountered a broken oil line you would not consider a braided one bling. You'd consider it a must have.

Glad they sold you the good stuff Matt.

 

Yeah they told me I could get a rubber or even PVC (!) one from an auto-parts place, but I don't want to have to mess with it after installation. Better to spend a few extra bucks for something quality, especially considering the pressure the fluid's under when the car is operating...

 

That comes off the oil galley & if it fails at speed your engine will be toast in very short order. Ask me how I know this.

 

Ummmmm... no thanks. I already have occasional panic attacks just thinking about all the things I know can go wrong. Cars are really wonderful things, but the more I understand how they actually work the less I BELIEVE they work, if you know what I mean. SO many things are all happening at precisely the same time and in such a carefully orchestrated order... It blows my mind.

 

Some of the kits I've seen use a banjo fitting for oil line, and then screw the oil sender into the top of the banjo bolt, it makes a pretty clean installation and allows the hose to lay flatter as it winds around the side of the engine.

Back in the day the oil pipe that came with the guage kits (like Stewart Warner's) used a plastic pipe. And before you all scoff at that idea, I have plastic pipe carrying 1200psi oil in my plant.....

 

Not scoffing... I'm just lazy and hate having to monkey with something I've previously installed/fixed.

A banjo fitting DOES make sense - wish I'd thought of that before I ordered the "T" fitting. Oh well - it's not in an obvious location thanks to all the crap cluttering up my engine bay... I'll see if it buges me and will "upgrade" as needed.

 

A "T" will work fine, just use the opening on the side of the "T" for the hose - same result. By that I mean, turn the T on it's side, then you'll have one leg pointing to the side and one straight out - use the side leg for the hose and the straight out one for the sender.

 

Yep- that's how I envisioned it working. Should be plenty of room for the sender unit even with this configuration (I hope).

 

my SMITHS has a plastic line and while I've been concerned - no so much as to replace it . . . yet

But that plastic line does bring to mind another question that's haunted me. Should this line be bled? I can see that there's oil and air bubbles in the line .... clearly not a sold oil stream from motor to the gauge. Am I getting an accurate pressure reading? Is the difference enuf to worry about .... I've not seen a bleeding procedure anywhere . . .

My thought is yes I am getting an accurate reading of pressure above ambient and the difference 'tween materials in this case is not significant.

But I am not an engineer.

Comments?

p.s. with a braided or solid steel line you wouldn't even know now would you?

 

The reading will be accurate, the air in the line could even act as a little buffer to keep the gauge from bouncing on pressure changes.......

 

Interesting point... good to know that air probably won't affect it. And yes, with the braided line, I'd never know...

 

Didja get her hooked up yet?

 

Nope... It's in the "to be completed when it gets colder, or whenever I have time" drawer. Plus, I've been in India for the last 3 weeks (makes it hard to wrench)...

 

Hey Matt, do you have to cut the whole out in the firwall to mount the binnavle. I know on the newer minis there isn't a hole and wasn't sure how you would run the lines and wires??? Maybe everything is long enough??? just wondering?

 

Yes there's a hole in ALL the classics as far as I know. Even with my wheel-mounted instruments, the hole is there (it was used as an armature mounting point when the chasis was built on all the classics). I was just going to mount the center binnacle over that hole - all my current wiring passes through it as it is.

 

no so, I have seen 80's mini where there isn't a center hole in the firewall. I know because my brother has a few that don't have the hole. I guess they keep changing things around, thats why I ask questions. Hey do you have the three mounted instruments or just the two in the car now? If you have the three I may be interested in is. Glad you don't have to cut anything to mount your new binnavle

 

Just the two, sorry.

As for the hole, that's weird - my car is technically a 1992, and mine has one for and aft (the hole was initially where a circular pipe slid through the whole chassis, carrying it from work station to work station according to old factory films I've seen). Maybe someone filled in/covered the hole on your brother's car?

 

not sure I just know I have seen many minis without the hole in the center on the newer ones. Good luck with you dash. If you need anything please feel free to call.