Looking for ideas on where to hide -- I mean completely conceal -- my V1 (or possibly a Redline) in my Clubman.

I travel through VA and DC a lot and need something hidden.

Anyone been down this path have any pointers?

 

You better figure out how to hide its radio signature.

 

I dug out the sun visor in my last Audi and it worked like a charm. Used a remote display so I could see what was going on. I don't think the V1 can be detected.

 

The V1 can be detected, but its pretty good. The Redline is one of only two units on the market that are SPECTRE proof.

 

Any radar detector can be detected. Hiding the detector itself is, of course, important in VA and DC. And if you're surrounded by a bunch of other cars, I would think a cop would be hard pressed to pick you out as the car with the detector. However, if you're driving in a relatively uncrowded area and you're the only person going by at the moment, then I'd say you'll get caught anyway. Ya pays yer money and takes yer chances.

 

Have you seen the StealthMirror?

http://www.stealthmirror.com/?gclid=...FQQTawodZVAdUQ

 

I have. Its not the display that's hard to conceal -- lots of options for this -- its the antenna. Thanks though!

 

You mean the unit itself.

I would just mount it behind a dark tint strip and use the remote display.

Anything else and you're probably reducing the detector's ability to "see".

 

Actually if you mount the V1 (specifically, and I'd imagine other radar detectors) behind tint strips, that too reduces its ability to detect.

 

Actually, it depends on the tint and what you're "detecting".

If you're not using a metallic tint (most good tint isn't) it's not going to have an effect on radar. We're talking radio waves, here, not visible or UV light.

It might have a slight effect on laser, but if you get a laser hit, you're usually toast, anyway.

Besides, what he really should be worried about is the radar detector detectors. No amount of hiding the unit it is going to help with that. His only solution is to turn it off.

 

I happen to live and drive in the two areas mentioned above and I can address the subject.

Everything said about the V1 and the dreaded "detector detector" or DD is true. The V1 is "visible" to them and I know people who have found out the hard way. The other parts about reducing the detector's ability when mounted behind a tint strip may not be as accurate. Take a look at Valentine Researches page and they address the issue. A quality (non metallic) tint strip will reduce the amount of energy that goes into the front of the detector but it will also reduce the amount of "background energy" by an equal amount. The net result is the same amount of detection ability but it may reduce the detection range. FYI, most LEO's in VA won't run LASER in the rain but the previous post is right about getting a LASER detection and being toast already.

While I would not recommend anyone break any laws, I will share what I've done to make my set up less visible for my frequent trips out of VA/DC. What I've done is mount my V1 up against the headliner to the right of the rear view mirror and it is behind a tint strip. I also cut and applied a strip of black vinyl tape for the suction cup mounts so they can't be seen from the outside (it doesn't block the view of the V1). I have the V1 remote display tucked in on the right side of the Tach but far enough back that it's not visible from outside the car (see my "how to" in the mods forum).

For power, I took the stealth circuit lead from my FES-Auto Auto-Sport + button. Two quick taps of the DSC button and I kill the power to the unit so I don't have to reach up to the V1 itself to power it off (which is an obvious and tell-tale gesture and it isn't sure to kill power to the oscillator in the device - the energy source for the DD). When I drop the power, the device is dead - powered off and the DD doesn't see it any longer. It works and that's an "in person" test/confirmation. Keep in mind, that will only help if there are other cars around! If you are all alone and the State Trooper's DD goes off, there's not much you can do about that. I also have a post in the "How-to" forum for this power set up.

I am working on modifying another remote display to fit it into a Craven Speed gauge cup. That will be the ultimate stealth install for the RD as it will be visible only from the driver's seat.

In the end, it's a $50 fine for having an RD in VA and they no longer confiscate the device.

As was said, you play the game, you pay the price.

 

Take the Redline put it in a pelican case, take apart the smartwire cord, remove the red LED and run two wires, then place the LED in the tachometer where the parking brake light is, now that flashes red when the Redline gets an alert, while the plastic will hinder performance, the Redline is also sensitive enough that good low grill placement will let it preform well enough it should still get the job done.

So for the antenna part, pelican case and run a long phone cord.

It's not that the Redline is one of many detectors that's spectre proof, it's that it's one of 4 that are Spectre IV+ proof.

 

I would honestly have to say that I'd have to see actual field tests to see if the Spectre would detect the unit. The Redline is one of many that's in a magnesium (or other metal/metallic) case. Not all of them claim to be "undetectable". I'd just like to see what a Spectre does see when one of these "shielded" devices drives by.

By mounting the device low, I'd be worried that I'd reduce the detection range and make the device ineffective. RADAR and LASER mounting conflict with each other - generally speaking. You want your LASER detector to be as close as possible to the main reflective sources as the LASER beam is pretty narrow (only a few feet wide at the likely detection range). For most of us in the Mini/MINI, that means headlights and license plate. LASER doesn't have as much "scatter" so it's much harder to get an early detect on it. Radar on the other hand has a much wider beam width (dozens of feet at detection range) and putting the detector up high will let it "sniff" for radar scatter before you are within detection range. Putting it down low means more of your auto has moved "over the horizon" or "around the bend" and into the radar's beam (generating a return) so you are more likely to be in the detection zone before you get an alert.

As far as putting it in the pelican case, we aren't talking about powerful radar systems and while most plastics are, for the most part, "invisible" to RADAR's energy, I'd be really, really worried about those well made pelican case (or other plastic style cases) attenuating so much of the incoming signal that you'd be staring the LEO in the face before your detector had enough signal to warn you.

You'd also kill any chance of a detection from a RADAR approaching from the rear and put real limits on anything from the side (no need to discuss the need for Doppler shift and all)...

Anyone actually do this yet to see what kind of effect it has on the detection range?

I'd love to find a cooperative LEO with a LASER though. With the Joey Mod and no chrome on the car, I'd love to see how much return I generate for him!

 

For the benefit of everyone reading this....
http://www.kmph.ca/products/radar-de...ti-r-plus.html
https://www.beltronics.com/store/sti-driver.html
http://www.escortradar.com/store/passport-9500ci.html
http://www.escortradar.com/redline-details.php
The thing about these detectors are that they reduce emissions and shift some of the sought out frequencies, but they still leak through the antenna horn, where the case no longer creates a Faraday cage. So it's largely the horn design that effects how easily detectable the detector is. The Escort M3 antenna horn has long been known for sucessfuly being undetectable beyond about 3 feet away.

http://veilguy.blogspot.com/2008/07/...-passport.html

http://www.speedtraphunter.net/radar...detectors.html

http://www.radarbusters.com/spectretestsarticle.cfm

http://www.radardetector.net/forums/...th-2008-a.html

http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=rddhunt#g/u

As was proven by the 9500ci and STi-R linked to well above, they have been proven time and again to be more sensitive down low in the front grill then up high in the cabin for two reasons, primarily because they are low enough to allow them to see under other vehicles. And second because there is nothing, windshield grille etc in front of them to reflect and obscure detection. However the OP did not recognize any of the premier remote mount detectors as part of his options list, which may be understandable when budget is factored in. Radar detectors are just that RADAR detectors, LIDAR detection is almost purely a gimmick, and after you've used a LIDAR gun first hand you'll understand just how fast easy and direct the reading is. The V1 can detect some scatter, but there's only about 1% chance of success of that alert actually offering you sufficient time to react should you have let your speed slip. A LIDAR jammer is the only way to defeat LIDAR and even then, it's not a guarantee unless you're running the right thing installed the right way.
http://www.guysoflidar.com/

The OP is not asking for the ideal install of a radar detector placement but rather concealment options, A-bond and 1stradardectors offer kits that take a V1 and place it inside a box to be mounted in the grille, as I said in my last post this doesn't allow the detector to preform at optimal levels but should suffice for the alert before visual identification, the closest anecdotal testing that I've done first hand has been response inside the box across the house, that had zero effect on K-band, and running with the V1 on the cabin floor when it fell off the windshield while temporarily installed in a rental car, where I was unable to retrieve and re-install the V1 until I reached my destination.

There is a very delicate balance to be had here, how much and how close an inspection the user expects to recieve, a Redline with a visor mount to take any hint of suction cups off the windshield and a tint strip across the top few inches of the windshield, and tinted windows around the car may very well suffice. Similar to this install




However that would not be a "stealth install" without tint or from inside the vehicle; hence not meeting the OPs requirement for complete concealment. As the OP is prioritizing complete concealment over complete detection, my original recommendation was made to reflect that.

http://www.a-bond.com/v1case.htm

http://www.1stradardetectors.com/Acc...rade/index.php
Detection from the rear with all detectors except the V1 is based upon reflection from road signs other vehicles and parts of the mounting vehicle. And even the V1s antenna will detect much of that signal, some times resulting in multiple direction arrows for one signal, sometimes the V1 software manages to Identify the clearly stronger source and give the correct arrow indication. While removing some of the feature, it would not eliminate detection ability of the V1 and be an irrelevant argument with the Redline.

http://www.radardetector.net/forums/
Doesn't take an LEO, just a laser gun and you can rent one of those with a little searching google and see how easy punch troughs are. But if you've got clear coat and a windshield laser will get a return.

 

Now THAT was an informative reply with GREAT information in it!

Thanks Drew!

OBTW - I have used a RADAR and LIDAR in actual operation while doing time with the traffic guys. Running that darn LIDAR took some practice and good training. Concur with your comment on the viability of ANY LIDAR detector being very effective, about the only thing you can hope for is to have the LEO "shooting" the car in front of you so you have a chance to "see" it before it's your turn!

Thanks and I'm willing to bet the OP got his/her answers from your post.

 

Glad it was useful, if I can point some people in the right direction, and maybe open up some options then all the better

There are solutions out there, none are perfect, but many are worthy of pursuing. I'm one of the lucky ones that can avoid VA. I'm still looking for the link pointing out the knowledge of federal law getting RD users tickets dismissed.

 

Drew:

I haven't had a chance to fully digest your reply but I'm blown away about its depth and obviously helpfulness. Thank you.

To all the other posters: thank you too. I really appreciate it.

Lots to think about!

 

so basically a car like this one (sans license plate) is more invisible than the average car?

 

Well yes and no. It's got to do with IR reflectivity. LIDAR LIght Detection and Ranging, uses an Infared Laser beam (with a wavelength of about 904nanometers) sending pulses to the car and timing how long it takes those pulses to return, then uses the differences in these returns to give the operator a speed. The less there is to reflect these pulses of light the harder the gun has to work to get a reading.

Meaning that if the officer isn't using a tripod, then a low profile vehicle with no reflective surfaces will be harder to get a reading on. The headlights, fog lights windshield and on that car I'd suspect the grille and stripes would likely be reflective in the IR spectrum. So on a long empty stretch of highway, the officer may need to wait until you're 1000ft or 500ft
away instead of being able to easily get a reading at 1500, 2000, 3000 or up to 7000 ft away (one model does specifically list being able to acquire speed readings from 30,000ft away but I'm yet to see that actually happen)

I believe the Guys of Lidar link above is the source that has the testing that proves, these things help performance of LIDAR jammers, however still show that passive measures alone aren't enough to defeat them. And none of this has effect on Radar, beyond the physical size of the object.

When setting up jammers for a MINI, one can probably get away with just two heads up front, if doing the same for an F150, you'd likely need 4 heads up front. A white MINI loaded with chrome and two heads, it would be likely a skilled operator could find a weak spot and punch through to get a reading; with a flat black MINI, that's had the headlights coated in IR reducing chemicals, with no front plate and two heads, it's going to be much harder if not impossible to get any reading. Of course the goal is to be able to use the jammers to take the alert, have the chance to check your speed making sure it's where it belongs, then shutting them off allowing the officer a proper reading.