R50/53 Shift Points
Shift Points
I did some searches, but could not get a specific example/recommendation. So here is the question: For my 2003 R50, what would be the optimal RPMs to shift at? Mind you not asking about optimal shift for MPG or anything like that. I guess what I'm asking is what RPMs would be lugging the engine and what RPMs would be over reving? I shift at about 2.7k but sometimes I can feel it lug as the next shift takes me to about 2k. Havn't drove it much, but don't want to damage anything either.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Have you consulted the owner's manual? Maybe they indicate it there.
My 2005 MCS I shift at 3,000rpm when driving for good gas mileage... I suspect your shifting at 2,000 would not be bad at ALL for the engine. I'll let an MC owner reply for best results.
My 2005 MCS I shift at 3,000rpm when driving for good gas mileage... I suspect your shifting at 2,000 would not be bad at ALL for the engine. I'll let an MC owner reply for best results.
well, it is a 1.6L engine, without a supercharger or turbo, which means low end torque spike will be non-existent. without the low end torque, you'll have to up your shift point slightly to keep it from bogging, especially if you have a "spirited" driving style.
here's the thing - assuming your clutch and tranny are in good shape, the worst that can happen when shifting too LOW, is stalling the car. it is a misconception that stalling is bad for the car, and in fact if the car stalls it means your CLUTCH held (good news). yes its embarrasing, but at least you didn't smoke your tranny. you're better off stalling all day than over revving the thing and glazing the clutch.
the lesson is, the sweet spot for the shift will vary widely with the throttle position and how hard you're driving. FEEL the car and try to make it smooth. if you are at the drag strip, ride every gear to 5900rpm and shift FAST. if you are getting groceries, granny that thing at 2krpm all day long.
remember your gears have different RATIOS so to rev match from 4th down to 3rd is less than 3rd to 2nd and so on and vis-a-versa. that also means that when upshifting, your RPMs drop more from 2nd to 3rd than they do from 3rd to 4th and so on. keep that in mind - that means that both upshifting and downshifting, each gear has its own ideal shift point based on previous and target RPM (figuring this out is basically how you learn to choose the proper gear when accelerating through corners. sometimes a higher or lower gear has a more optimal torque output for the particular pitch angle of the car, giving you better grip).
if a shift feels boggy or overly revved, then drive back around the block and do the same corner a little faster or a little slower, shift at a different mailbox or tree, brake a little harder or softer, take a wider sweep around the corner, etc. one time it will feel perfect and if you don't hit the curb from screaming WOAH! YES! then you will have figured it out.
most importantly, get in and out of the clutch as quickly as possible. learn to "double clutch" and "rev match" your shifts both up and down. try to avoid letting the clutch contact plates meet while the engine are and tranny are at vastly different speeds (for example, 5th at 15mph or 1st at 60mph and so on, or letting it the clutch halfway out while revving the thing to infinity). even if you are slowing down very quickly, say from 4th to 2nd gear, take your time and downshift sequentially while braking from 4th to 3rd, 2nd, and so on. don't be lazy and hold the clutch pedal down while you skip gears riding the brake. it should be BAM . BAM . BAM on the clutch and smooth on the brake. slow is smooth, smooth is fast.
here's the thing - assuming your clutch and tranny are in good shape, the worst that can happen when shifting too LOW, is stalling the car. it is a misconception that stalling is bad for the car, and in fact if the car stalls it means your CLUTCH held (good news). yes its embarrasing, but at least you didn't smoke your tranny. you're better off stalling all day than over revving the thing and glazing the clutch.
the lesson is, the sweet spot for the shift will vary widely with the throttle position and how hard you're driving. FEEL the car and try to make it smooth. if you are at the drag strip, ride every gear to 5900rpm and shift FAST. if you are getting groceries, granny that thing at 2krpm all day long.
remember your gears have different RATIOS so to rev match from 4th down to 3rd is less than 3rd to 2nd and so on and vis-a-versa. that also means that when upshifting, your RPMs drop more from 2nd to 3rd than they do from 3rd to 4th and so on. keep that in mind - that means that both upshifting and downshifting, each gear has its own ideal shift point based on previous and target RPM (figuring this out is basically how you learn to choose the proper gear when accelerating through corners. sometimes a higher or lower gear has a more optimal torque output for the particular pitch angle of the car, giving you better grip).
if a shift feels boggy or overly revved, then drive back around the block and do the same corner a little faster or a little slower, shift at a different mailbox or tree, brake a little harder or softer, take a wider sweep around the corner, etc. one time it will feel perfect and if you don't hit the curb from screaming WOAH! YES! then you will have figured it out.
most importantly, get in and out of the clutch as quickly as possible. learn to "double clutch" and "rev match" your shifts both up and down. try to avoid letting the clutch contact plates meet while the engine are and tranny are at vastly different speeds (for example, 5th at 15mph or 1st at 60mph and so on, or letting it the clutch halfway out while revving the thing to infinity). even if you are slowing down very quickly, say from 4th to 2nd gear, take your time and downshift sequentially while braking from 4th to 3rd, 2nd, and so on. don't be lazy and hold the clutch pedal down while you skip gears riding the brake. it should be BAM . BAM . BAM on the clutch and smooth on the brake. slow is smooth, smooth is fast.
I think this is a good thread for me question.
I want to shift faster. By that I mean, I feel like my shifter is inhibiting quick shifts. The shifter seems to stop, briefly, at the gate of each shift. This is apparent more so in gears 1, 2, and 3. Gears 4, and 5 feel smooth relatively speaking anyway.
So whats the deal? Trying to hammer the shifter doesn't make a difference and causes to much strain and damage. Slow and gentle shifts feel best but there is still a pause at the gate.
I want to shift faster. By that I mean, I feel like my shifter is inhibiting quick shifts. The shifter seems to stop, briefly, at the gate of each shift. This is apparent more so in gears 1, 2, and 3. Gears 4, and 5 feel smooth relatively speaking anyway.
So whats the deal? Trying to hammer the shifter doesn't make a difference and causes to much strain and damage. Slow and gentle shifts feel best but there is still a pause at the gate.
Although I am NOT an expert, but I've always heard that bogging an engine is bad on the connecting rods and pistons. I shift at 3k without events.
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I have an 03S and shift around 4k. After doing this for a while, I have noticed that I don't have much "get up and go" when starting off in 1st gear. It's not until I get up to about 4k in rpm that I feel the kick. I took my S in for a new Scharger at the dealer and when I drove it home, it had A LOT of kick in 1st gear. Is there some adjustment that they could have done?
You mean like the like this?:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ni-viagra.html
Or is there another "reset"? Also, I have seen that if yu thumb through the computer you can access subjects like "actual rpm's" or "actual mph" is there a way to keep actual MPH on the display without having to thumb through the system?
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ni-viagra.html
Or is there another "reset"? Also, I have seen that if yu thumb through the computer you can access subjects like "actual rpm's" or "actual mph" is there a way to keep actual MPH on the display without having to thumb through the system?
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