Ok, so at 40k miles, I need to replace my control arm bushings. I was thinking of getting them already installed in the brackets, but I figured I'd save the $$ and just get the bushings w/o the carriers. Question is, do I NEED the BMW tool to press the old ones out or is there a substitute? I've seen 3 jaw pullers used for 3-series bushings. Has anyone tried this? Sawzall maybe? I would plan on taking out the brackets to do the job, so I figure i could use a vise to press the new ones in. Also any info anywhere on removing the brackets without removing the entire subframe? The only info I've found on here shows either using the bmw tool or dropping the entire subframe, which I would like to avoid if I could. Thx.

 

When I accidently broke one of my bushing brackets it required the removal of the subframe to remove it.
The bolts that hold the bushing bracket to the subframe are long and I doubt you could get em out without dropping the subframe.
It's really not that hard to drop the subframe. Just a bunch of bolts, no special tools required.
I cut my old bushing out of the brackets with a hacksaw blade.

If you can afford it you might want to consider an upgraded bushing like the polyflex. They are very easy to press in and the handling is much better.

 

Cool, sounds like I may be able to just loosen the subframe and drop the rear enough to get the bolts out. I was thinking of poly bushings, but am afraid the additional noise/vibration may be too much and don't want to have to deal with re-lubing them either, maybe when these next set of stock ones fail in another 40k miles, i'll switch .

 

If you are going to install OE bushings, you will find that the difference in price between just the bushing, and the bushing pre-installed in the housing, is quite small. I bought the complete assembly. Much, much easier. And, I now have a set of bushing carriers in my garage in case I decide to go with aftermarket bushings in the future.

 

I went into doing mine thinking I would just drop the rear subframe...that wasn't happening. The bolts for the bracket-to-subframe were wicked tight and my breaker bar was too long to swing with any effectiveness.
The subframe eventually came down which made the job ten times easier. It's not hard to do at all.

 

Save yourself ALOT of trouble. Go ahead and get them with the brackets, it will make your life a 100 times easier.

I can sell you the OEM's installed in brackets. Also I am now offering the Powerflex bushings pre pressed into brackets for sale, with exchange of your old brackets. This way customers can install them without purchasing any special tools.

 

+1
Brillant! If you were doing this last year I missed it. I would have bought these in an instant!

 

Get the Alta PSRS!

A lot better product than stock with really no NVH problems. It does stiffen up the front end and it will transmit the loads to the car, but it is by far the best option for handling.

Way, thought about offering the Alta's preinstlled?

 

Yeah we can do the Alta's pre installed. Just need to know which of the two positions you want them installed. We us an Aircraft grade loctite in addition to pressing them in. Don't want them to come loose.

 

Does getting a set of powerflexes already pressed into the brackets add to the price of just the bushings on your site? If so how much?

 

what is the price and availability foe the PSRS installed in brackets? I have 80K on my R50 and was told by the dealership that the front control arm bushings are worn out (not enough to hear any metal to metal noise when hitting potholes in turns) so I want to replace them with something better.
I currently have H-sport lowering springs but I'm not liking the progressive rate so I will be switching to the TSW lowering springs. I'm assuming that the 2 settings for the PSRS are for stock ride and lowered ride, if so I will need them set to a lowered car. Any other info that you may have wouls be greatly appreciated.

Thank you!

BTW I was sweating this job and was considering the dealership for the work, just to avoid having to work around the BMW special tools or hydrolic press.

 

There are 2 settings on the Alta PSRS to adjust caster. You can choose between .75* and 1.5* of added caster angle. Most will recommend that you go for the max additional as it gives more feel to the steering ( a bit more turning effort) plus it adds a bit of induced camber while turning.

 

Guys, Please feel free to call to order them. I haven't got it set up on the website as I don't have alot of brackets to cycle throught. I currently charge $15 for pressing them in and for the additional shipping as the brackets add weight to the package, but it's only a couple bucks. Then I do have $100 core charge for the brackets, if you send your back undamaged you get your core charge back.

Call me and I'll assemble your choice of bushings Powerflex or Alta and ship them out.
WAY
317.201.8670

 

Excellent service as always!

 

Powerflex polyU bushings, ball joint, H-Sport front sway bar, TSW springs all ordered and awiting goodies. Have autox on 30th & 31st....will kick some A$$!!!

 

Awesome deal man, now you have me wanting to do this.

 

it adds $15 bucks to get them already in. I ordered mine and they were at the door in less than 24 hours along with a front sway bar..... how did i get talked into that. new parts will go on tonight.

Thanks Way, great service.

i promise i'll send back the cores.

 

Received parts on Friday as promised. Installed parts on Sunday!

The difference is night and day, the ride is smoother, turn is more responsive and tight, feels rock solid in the turns and very predictable! Cain't wait to get her out on course to see what she does in competition!!!!

Thanks to Way!!! Brackets are on the way back!!

 

back to the track on the 6-7th. i'll let you know what the diff is.

 

Well I got the car out on course and I was not able to put any power down. No matter what I tried, i couldn't keep the inside front tire from spinning. I ended up disconnecting the new front sway bar for Sunday's event, which made a big difference, so I'm going to remove it one of these days and put the stock sway bar back on. I'm not sure what I'm going to do with it, I would sell it but only to someone who has a LSD.

 

I am looking to replace my bushings. Can you give me some specifics/tips? Did you actually remove the subframe, or just lower it by loosening the bolts? The Bentley manual lists 22 bolts for the subframe. Did you have to remove/loosen all of them, or just the rear ones? Since your breaker bar was too long, were you able to do this without one? Did you use open/box end wrenches, or a ratchet with sockets? Did you have to disconnect the control arm at the ball joint, or use any special tools.
Thanks for any info.
Dave

 

Looks like I need to replace my bushings too. I was underneath my car when I swapped back over to my summer tires, and well at 42k miles - they're pretty much toast. It's no wonder my car has been tramlining more with age...

Glad to see that someone is offering the powerflex bushings preinstalled in the brackets. Seems like it would be a PITA to do it yourself...

 

Dave,

This thread is about FRONT control arm bushings. Not sure if (when you say) rear sub-frame you are meaning the rear sub-frame or the rear of the front sub-frame. Anyways you must remove all front subframe bolts (including the steering rack bolts...if these are not removed then the steering rack won't allow the rear portion of the front sub-fame to drop low enough to remove the rear control arm bushing bracket bolts (bolt that holds the sway bar bushing). I used a wedge to lower the frame down to gain access to these bolts. And yes these bolts are tight at 105ftlb of torque with miles of corrosion so they can be a big PITA!!!

 

Actually guys. If you get MC2 Magazine there is a good article with a ton of pics with How to install front control arm bushings. Maybe I could include a copy when you order the bushings.
If you notice the pics you'll see that guy didn't even use the special tool to press out the bushings. I can tell you from experience that without the tool it is ALOT harder than those pics make it. Even the factory tool I have doesn't work correctly all the time.

 

My personal feeling here is just replace the entire bracket with the stock bushing...if stock is what you want.