Another weekend project as my '03 MCS with 43K needs them. I'll be calling you guru and would love a copy of the magazine article with prefit Polyflex bushings... figure my son owes me some muscle as I helped him install a TBD on his Cayman!!

 

No problem we got em in stock and the MC2 magazines too.

 

I would highly recommend the pre-pressed idea (a) can't beat the $15 Way charges and (2) got a quote (after the fact) for a BMW-style tool for $242 ...

Thx again Way - did you get my old brackets back?

 

Thanks, got the old brackets back and sent them out with new bushings to another customer. Glad it made it so much easier.

 

Boy, with all of us doing this, those bushings must be a weak link in the Mini suspension design... my car has only 43K miles and was never abused or driven on really crappy, bumpy roads...

 

...and BMW invested a lot of money on R&D too. Personally, a non-oil filled unit may have performed better over the long term...does BMW own Powerflex

 

Unfortunatly the control arm bushings are the weak point in the front suspension. They hold alot of weight and are forced to move in all directions.

 

Do you recommend using the Powerflex motorsport brackets too?

 

Not really, the motorsport piece is just a big washer bolted to the back of the control arm.

 

Thanks!

 

OK, installed the Poweflex LCA bushings this afternoon (opted out on the Motorsport brackets) and on the short drive home, I love them!!! Now if I had known Way offered the press in service before, I would do it in a second!! Getting the old bushings off the control arms can be a real PITA.. So if you are considering doing this..... CALL WAY.

 

Thanks Mark, We just did our 3rd set at the shop this week.

 

I gotta do this soon... maybe next month after vacation... gotta keep up with Mark.

 

Got the installed Powerflex bushings from Way- read about a dozen threads here and elsewhere + the MC magazine article. and my Bentley manual.. if I try and replace these by just lowering the subframe and not completely taking it off, do I need to remove and disconnect the ball joints from the control arms? Trying to visualize this before I get it all apart and THEN run into a BIG snag! Anything special to remove the male part of the old bushing that goes on the control arm itself?? TIA...

 

If you have a lot of miles on your car, just remove the sub-frame...replace inner ball joints, swaybar bushings and LCA bushings all at once. Lowering the sub-frame slightly is about 85% of of the complete effort...not sure if saving 15% time is worth it...takes me less than three hours including set up and clean up.

But yes, outer ball joints and outer tie rods must be un-bolted.

 

Yep you will need to disconnect the ball joints. The control arm needs to come completely off. We did mine on a lift and didn't remove the subframe completely. Would not recommend doing this on jack stands unless you enjoy self abuse.....

 

So I'm doing mine on jack stands.

 

Did mine one jack stands, Used the pre pressed poly bushings. The ride is really not any more harsh, handling is improved a bit, steering is more responsive.

I dropped the rear of the sub frame, and unhooked the brackets, it is a pita but really is just more annoying than anything since u dont get to go faster hahaha.

Took about 4 1/2 hours but i didnt look at any how tos i just did it, it would prob tak 3 1.2 to 4 hours.

 

Exactly, it's not complicated, just seems everything wants to slow you down. If those two bolts on the bushing carriers went up through them with a nut on top it would be a lot easier!!! If I ever decide to make this a dedicated track car and I replace the bushings again, I'll modify it that way....

PS: Blimey, didn't your Daddy tell you about that.....LOL

 

Who do you think I learned from?

 

(_o_) Just thought it came naturally for ya.....

 

You know what i definately should have changed the way those bolt up, i didnt even think about that, i mean i doubt ill be changing them again but still.....

Did anyone have a problem with the seal inside the car whee the steering column goes through the floor? I was driving with my windows up the other day and i realized that i was hearing alot of engine noise and that seal is really hard to move and adjust.

Coincidently after i went and got it aligned i was on the highway doing like 90-110 and i was getting some shakes and vibration in the wheel and the higher the speed from ninety the car shaked a little bit.

Do you think thats alignment, tire balancing or did i not tighten something down all the way when i did the install?

any insight

 

The first component I check after raising the the sub-frame almost all the way is the rubber grommet sealing the steering shaft...because getting this back on after the sub-fram is completely installed - with the tie rod in the way - is a huge PITA!!!

To your other question...anything is possible. I do not allow any distractions while am putting a car back together and I am extremely methodical...I've come to a point where I write a pre-check list of the reinstal and check each item as I get to it. ****? Sure, but I am otherwise known as the absent minded professor in my family...I forgot to tighten lug nuts once...just once And I drink wine...

 

My set of powerflex bushings (pre-pressed, Thanks Way) are on the way.

I'm doing the LCA, transmission and motor mount all with powerflex bits.

From the reading above, maybe I'll do the balljoints while I'm in there. I need to get out my Haynes Manual!

 

Aaron you will have your parts on Friday.

As for the boot around the steering column shaft. DON'T EVER take it off if you don't have to. It is a Royal PITA to get in place. That's why I always disconnect the steering column shaft just to insure it doesn't pop out of place.

We also have the Inner and outer ball joints if people want to get those too. I know the outer ones are $45 each and the inners are $63 each.