And don't forget to get the alignment done !

 

Just starting to remove things and a couple questions come to mind- do you leave the steering rack in place by removing the torx bolts or does it lower with the subframe? (therefore having to disconnect the steering column and tie-rods). Finding out the ball joint removal tool we used on my son's Cayman won't work for the Mini- if I don't have the BMW tool, which is available locally that will work?
Thinking of replacing the ball joints while I'm at it since it will be apart- will be calling you Way...

 

Leave the steering rack on the subframe, just disconnect the shaft.

For the ball joints I can ship them to you. But for disconnecting them we don't use any tool, just a hammer.

 

I was lucky enough to do the work at a shop with a lift... what a way to work!

I removed the front bumper cover and aluminum crossmember (the real structural bumper) needlessly. A MINI dealership tech showed my how to remove the 6 rear subframe bolts, the 2 outer ball-joint bolts under each hub and the 2 midpoint subframe bolts (over the wheels) and then just drop down the rear end of the subframe... it gives you enough room to get the LCA bushing cages off.

The old bushings put up quite a fight! We must have mucked with one of 'em for a good 45 minutes before it finally gave way to a massive set of Vice Grips.

Way: UPS says that my bushing cages will be back to you on Thursday. Thanks for the pressing-in service! Great stuff, that!

 

So how far down does the rear of the subframe need to come? Do you still have to disconnect the PS reservoir? And what about the inner balljoints? So 10 bolts and that was it? Not bad... I really want to change my LCA bushings really soon, but my biggest fear about dropping the entire subframe is that I will forget where all 20+ bolts go on the way back in.

 

When I did mine I used smaller jackstands in the garage, which gave me just enough room to 'move' - as I removed bolts from the subframe, etc I just left them on the floor under where they went, thus saving a bunch of 'remembering'

I didn't have to remove the PS reservoir; did have to get creative in feeding it part-way down (bent exhaust heat shield up out of way to get it down farther, along w/ moving some hoses) - I unbolted the inner ball joints from the subframe, because I had to remove the LCA completely to get the old bushings off - I borrowed a ball joint splitter from an old VW mechanic to get the outers apart (AutoZone's tool won't work - too big) - the biggest PITA was rethreading the 2nd bushing mount: the 'collars' on the sway bay fought correct alignment for starting the bolts...After doing the remove-the-front-bumper thing, I'd disagree - there's 2 bolts/studs per side connecting the subframe-to-bumper - something will be stressing (bending? breaking?) otherwise - maybe could just remove the fascia and those 4 nuts (?)

Also, be prepared: the bushing mounts install at 122 ft/lbs - come out hard...

Good luck!

 

hmm..im finally gonna need to buy a torque wrench.

 

IIRC: 13, 15, 16, 19, & 21 mm sockets for it - same for the wrenches...

This is the type of ball joint splitter I used:
http://imgs.inkfrog.com/pix/kinetikco/KONI_1247.jpg

 

Which is the 21mm socket for? I think I may need to pick one of those up too..

 

afaik 21mm is the size for the control arm bushing bracket to subframe bolts.

If you can an impact wrench will make short work of these bolts!

1/2" drive torque wrench highly suggested!! To put it into perspective 122ftlbs is 30 lbft of torque more than required for the wheel lug bolts!!!!

BTW the pictured ball joint seperator tool is the same as I used.

 

Yeah, the bushing bracket bolts are 21's...

The pic of the ball joint tool: ebay, > $20 (+s/h)

 

The saga continues- finally got some time to take more stuff off- finally got the outer ball joints pushed out of the control arm- got the 13mm bolts off the ball joint itself as I'm putting on new ones (figured I've got the whole damned thing apart so I'll replace them with the bushings) and thanks to the Iowa winter salt the holder seems "welded" onto the strut. I've used about a gallon of WD-40 and it won't budge. Going to let it soak overnight... any ideas??
I like doing projects like this myself but damn , this is a PITA and I haven't even lowered the subframe yet... hopefully tomorrow...
Way, I'll get back my cores someday!!! I do want to drive this thing again someday

 

Since your replacing the ball joints anyway. Go ahead and use a pickle fork to get them off. Normally you would damage the boots, but you have new ones so don't worry.

 

Do you mean you can't get apart the ball joint stud from the control arm? Or the ball joint 'body' out of the hub carrier? - which is what I'm guessing when you said 13mm nuts; the b/j stud/ c/arm is 16mm if I recall...

BTW I prefer "PB Blaster" myself...

 

Can't get the ball joint "body" out of the hub carrier or strut. Removed the bolts holding it in but it must be rusted in. Finally got the joint shaft out of the control arm after taking off the bolt and using a ball joint removal spreader. Figure getting the inner one won't be much fun either as it won't be easy getting to the bolts that hold it on until I lower the subframe. Wish now I'd just replaced the bushings but I always seem to go "overboard" renewing parts! Better keep this car for a while!! I'm having fun right???

 

The subframe is sitting on the garage floor and the carriers are off... boy I thought they were rusted on for good- we were using an old kart axle on the breaker bar for added leverage to get them to move... the impact wrench wouldn't budge them at first. Thought we were going to break the bolt off!! Some interesting noises before they finally loosened. Thinking about new bolts and a little never-seize on the threads before they go back in... thank you Iowa road salt...

Need a break- going for a motorcycle ride with my son... will finish tomorrow and get the carriers boxed up to send back to Way...

Thanks to everyone for their help and suggestions...

 

I encounter a stubborn outer ball joint sometimes, spray penetrating fluid from above in the hole on the steering knuckle, and strike with a hammer on a drift to the ends near the bolt holes to twist; a little back & forth will open a gap enough to insert a prybar blade. The ball joint extractors that work for this job can be obtained from NAPA as a part of their loaner kit. A how-to for those who’ve not seen it yet https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...g-install.html . I’ve since fabricated a tool for R&R of the arm.

 

I did this to remove mine. Didin't need the prybar as it broke loose before I went there. But it did take ALOT of back and forth rotating to break it lose. I believe this ball joint "well/socket" is slightly tappered.

 

Boy, the subframe sure goes back in easier than it comes out! (doesn't hurt to have your 22 year old son helping either). Wiggled it back in a few minutes and then started tightening down all the bolts and plugging things back in... then the moment of truth, driving it to see if the vibration was gone... figured I'd just shoot myself it if wasn't... FIXED! And the new inner and outer ball joints can't hurt either.
Way, the cores are leaving tomorrow when my wife can take the box to the shipping store...

(I'm sure if I ever had to do that again it could come out in 1/4 the time!!)

 

Yeah, it was a kinda a PITA to learn (do a step, get up and read next step, figure out the missing part of the instruction, repeat), but very rewarding when done, eh? - although that first drive around the block was a clencher, for sure! BTW, I had my alignment checked when done, and was off less than 0.1 degrees than when I started - lucky? (dunno)...

 

Glad it worked out for you guys.

Thanks for the heads up on the core returns.

 

My Mini's in the shop right now so I'll have those cores returned soon as well.

 

Great, and if you or who is doing it needs any tech support don't hessitate to call, We've installed 100's of these.

 

well i have a PLAIN Mini Cooper (R50) 03 with 109K and it needs bushings as well as the PSP and Fan. I have someone who likes to drop the subframe to do the PSP so he will also do the bushings. He can press them in.. my question is.. if i dont motorcross nor have an S. do i need the Poly's? or should i stay with the stock?

 

Rob
I'd go ahead and do the poly, they will last longer than the OEM and give you really good road feel. And I can ship the pump with the bushings to you to save you shipping.

Also MC2 just sent me additional copies of the last issue with the HOW-TO on installing these bushings. I will continue to include a FREE copy to anyone ordering them.

WAY