Way, just had my car inspected for free at MINI dealer...stated I need lower arm control bushings...can this realistically be done in my garage with jack stands? Anything special needed other then the MC2 article? Last project was rotor/pad swap for front and back...otherwise not much else I have personally done on the car except simple things like an intake, etc...but just want to make sure I can do this before I commit to it... MINI wants $905.20

 

1> Yes - 2> ball joint splitter

 

for those who did the partial removal/loosening of the sub frame (swing the back half down to get to the bushing carriers), which bolts in this diagram are removed to lower the subframe?

 

#2 (x 2); #11 (x 2); #3 (x 6); #13 (x 4) (I removed the inner ball joint mount instead of splitting it); plus the bumper mounting bolts / nuts - to get it lowered...

Don't forget to disconnect the power steering resevoir mount (it needs to lower w/ the subframe) and the steering shaft/rack connection...

 

Thanks, I am actually removing the ps pump to send for refurbishing.

 

BTW, anyone have the part number for the stretch bolt that needs to be replaced?

 

I am at the point in this picture, but for the life of me I cannot get to the swaybar bolts. How did you get them off from this angle?

 

We use a 3/8 driver ratchet and put a cheater pipe on it. Or you can use a 18mm box end wrench with a cheater pipe on it. Those bolts are tight.

 

Thanks, I tried the box wrench and ratchet, I just don't seem to have enough room to move the wrenches.

 

one other thing, I bought the ball joint separator listed earlier in the post and it snapped with very little pressure. I still have the ball joints in tact so if I can separate them I may get additional space. One question, and this may be a newb one. I removed the two bolts on either side of the ball joint which should allow the carrier to drop... it is not. Is there a secret to getting the carrier off?

 

I'm guessing you're refering to the bolts that attach the swaybar and the bushing brackets to the subframe: I used a 18mm wrench and a 22(?) on the end (cheater) to break the bolts loose.
EDIT: Maybe they were 21mm - recollection foggy right now
Did you disconnect the front subframe attachment to the (aluminum) bumper? (several posts say it's not needed, but doing so allows the s/f to drop lower) Yes, it's a tight space, and those bolts come out hard: when I did it it was kinda a sixth of a turn - reset wrench - sixth of a turn - etc (with my knee braced against the s/f) most of the way out. The 'flange' on the swaybar also works against the ease of movement of the bolts (also when reinstalled). And using a floorjack or similar to support the subframe works wonders in controlling droop of the subframe. If it's still not lowering enough check clearance of power steering reservoir (I had to bend header heat sheild up out of the way for clearance)...

Are you changing the ball joints? I didn't (at that time, one crisis at a time ), and found I didn't need to remove them for clearance - IIRC you need to use a cold chisel on the seam w/ the hub to 'break' them out...

No question is a bad question

 

Just for clarification: did the ball joint "Snap" (come apart) or did you break the tool?


Also (as it comes back to me) after I got thinking about it, once everything is disconnected from the hub/strut assembly I used a bungee to tie it back (forward) for a little more room to work...

 

Yes

Box Wrench? I tried coming from the side (wheel well) and could not get the socket to seat.

Cheater? What exactly is that?

Yes

I removed the PS pump for replacement and the res is pushed down

So you did not separate any of the ball joints?

 

The tool broke, the arms on the top split.

 

Yes, I got the ball joints out of the control arm, using the 'splitter' tool - sucks that yours broke, agree that you may need to (now) remove yours from the hub. (I completely removed the LCA to get the bushings off) (see chisel note, above) - when you get the LCA out you'll probably want to replace the ball joints, either using a larger ball joint tool (most chain autoparts have loaners, most are too big too fit if LCA is still in the car) or (worst case) hitting an auto machine shop. The inners (for me) came out much easier (just unbolted)...

Cheater: Using the closed end of a 21mm combination wrench on the bolt head, hook the closed end of another (preferably larger) wrench over the 'finger' of the 21mm open end to increase length, thus leverage. If they're coming out that hard, I'd strongly advise NOT using a 3/8 drive rachet, not much chance of it withstanding that kind of torque. Although at this point you're very close to being able to completely remove the subframe from under the car (p/s disconnected)...

 

Thanx, I think I will swing by Napa and order a non-Ebay ball joint separator.

For the cheater, I debated taking the pipe off one of my jacks to use as a mega extention.... btw, did you attack the bolts from under the car or thru the wheel well?

Did you do the inner ball joints? I thought the outer was what needed to be separated to lower the SF more?

 

Yes for a cheater pipe you can use the handle of your jack. That's exactly what I use all the time.

Did you disconnect the steering column from the rack? If not that could be why your having trouble getting in there.

 

If you're going to NAPA, bring a copy of that photo w/ you, they may have a loaner...

I think it was thru (under) the wheel well - if you're having a 'swing' issue you may want to investigate moving the jackstands to allow more travel (in case you haven't tried that) - safety first ...

I ended up disconnecting all the ball joints (the inners just unbolt, didn't remove from LCA) and completely removed the LCA from the car; I found it easier to remove the remnents of the old bushing. (also need to unbolt the 'height sensor', small plastic arm on one of the LCA's) I used the existing ball joints for the time being (ain't broke, don't fix it) - but w/ the issues you're having, and w/ already getting the LCA out it might be a good idea to replace them now - your descretion...

Couple more pic.s, for what it's worth
front veiw of subframe lowered


almost everything disconnected, including tie-rod end (also shows hub pulled out of the way by bungee, for extra room)

 

Thanks for all your help.

I realized I had not "popped" the steering column off...I had assumed that It would slide out. To make it more fun, the parts were rusted together. I spent 45 minutes getting it separated.

Now for the outer ball joints. The pass side will not separate! I bought a new tool and the driver side separated with a lot of force, in fact I gave it as much as I could and then leaned back for a minute and then pop! The pass would not give! I put the tool on and tightened as much as I could and nothing, I hit it with a mallet, nothing... can anyone give me a suggestion?

Is there an easy way to get the bushing-housing off the arm? I wrestled with it using a pry bar, I pulled and pulled on it sprayed some oil on it and braced my feet on the sub-frame and pulled... this is one of the few times my 260 lbs was a benefit. Is there an easy way to get them off?

 

This link may help you with an idea to remove the bushing a little easier.

http://www.motoringalliance.com/foru...sub-frame.html

 

Thanks, I am not an alliance member so I cannot access the pdf

 

I used one of those long, break-away blade knives (3/8") to cut through the "soft-spot" in the middle of the OEM bushing, then cut through the remainder to the "spindle" on the LCA and peeled 'em off with a pair of channel locks - the ole' K.I.S.S. principle

 

We just use a large prybar and a little lube, with alot of force and they come off.

 

The saga continues....

no matter what I did I could not separate the pass side outer ball joint. I was able to change out the bushing with some fat-boy-origami... but when I went to put the ball joint nut back on I found the start of the threads were bent by the tool.

Any thoughts on the next step?

 

Hey Joel, try a file to work the threads and get the nut started. If you can't you'll need a new ball joint.

What is fat-boy-origami?