Sent this off to M7 and Way Motor Works just now. Any thought from NAMers who have done this coilover install
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I hit a snag that really concerns me while doing the install. When I got to the part where I was inserting the bottom of the front shock body into the hub carrier (the bit with the pinch bolt to hold it in) I could not get it tight. I would use a jack to life the carrier up and put some load on it with the shock body lined up so it went into the slot in the carrier. Then I would wiggle that carrier and get it up as flush to the bottom of the shock body as possible (with the inner bit of the shock sticking out the bottom and inside the hub carrier. Then I could put the pinch clamp bolt in by hand easily and then tighten it up to 60 ft lbs and even more. No matter what we tried you could wiggle the assembly in the hub carrier even though the pinch bolt was tight and it would not move downward or come apart. I think this is due to the fact that the lower part of the shock is smaller than stock and the Leda system I had as the M7 needs to spin in order to change the ride height… or this is how it seems. So it isn’t tight like the stock one or the Leda and when jacked up I can wiggle the front wheel on either side a small but noticeable amount. I need to get an alignment and put the car into use again but I am concerned that it won’t work as the wheel assembly can wiggle. I am going to be heading to my alignment shop at 11AM EST and would loooove some input on this before I dump the cash.

Dave Spragg

[SIZE=3][FONT=Calibri]Instructions from the manual pertaining to the part in question.[/FONT][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Calibri]===============[/FONT][/SIZE]
[FONT='Arial','sans-serif']To install the new strut assembly, place the shock body inside of the[/FONT]
[FONT='Arial','sans-serif']carrier. Be sure to align the flange into the gap in the pinch clamp of the carrier. Place a jack under the brake[/FONT]
[FONT='Arial','sans-serif']rotor/ hub carrier. Slowly jack the entire assembly up to the top of the strut tower. Have another person line[/FONT]
[FONT='Arial','sans-serif']up the bolts coming from the strut top through the holes in the strut tower. As you jack up the assembly, you[/FONT]
[FONT='Arial','sans-serif']may have to wiggle the hub carrier to ensure a proper fit of the lower part of the strut. When done correctly,[/FONT]
[FONT='Arial','sans-serif']the 18mm bolt will slide through the hub carrier’s pinch clamp easily.[/FONT]
[FONT='Arial','sans-serif']Once this is done, tighten the 18mm pinch clamp bolt to 60ft-lb[/FONT]

 

I had the same setup as you and the fit should be snug. I had two different styles of Leda's before installing ours and the fit is still tight. I just had the front end apart two weeks ago to put in the Alta PSRS bushings in so my memory is pretty fresh.We have sold a few hundered sets of these coil overs and this is the first time I have heard of any fitment issues like this. Give Peter a call in the morning and he may have some more input.
Randy
M7 Tuning

 

Thanks, I sent notes to M7 and Way. M7 answered the phone yesterday... which impressed me as I have been messing with performance car and motorcycle stuff for quite a few years and know that is NOT normal. Memorial Day?!?! I felt silly even dialing and then I got a person!

If you look at the pic of the set of them and focus on the lower part of the front shocks here http://gandini.unm.edu/PGpages/Interests/Coilovers.htm you can see how the welded on tab on the M7 shock body that goes in the slot in the hub carrier extends will past the thick part of the shock body. That tab gets pinched by the pinch bolt when you crank it down and this is fine. In my case the ridge where the shock gets bigger is resting on the hub carrier as tight as I can get it.

The lower and narrower bit in these pics needs to turn in order to adjust the ride height on these coilovers so it seems a bit narrower than the stock shocks and that is what can wiggle even when the pinch bolt is snugged up past the 60 ft lbs.

Dave

 

First off I have to say that M7 (Peter) and Way at Way Motor Works are class acts and great guys in terms of supporting their customers. I have been messign with cars and motorcycles for years and a lot of great companies fall flat in this area. Peter answered the after hours tech line on Memorial Day... I do not expect this but I was impressed!

I spoke to Way and Peter today and after talking to them I acted on their advice. I took the front wheels off and pulled the struts out of the carriers and then took a grinding wheel to the inside of the carrier hub's gap (the one the pinch bolt helps close up). In my case I had to use a file for a while as I only have a dremel and it was not up to the task. After this I put some antiseize on the pinch bolts and rotate the struts back into position. Then I used a jack to raise the hub carrier by supporting the arm and jacking up a bit just like my friend Peter (the the M7 Peter )had done while doing this work yesterday at my place. I jiggled and shook the strut as it went up to make sure I got a snug fit just like yesterday. Next I torqued the pinch bolt to 80 ft lbs and it seemed snug on the first side with no jiggle. Not much to hold onto with my loose Wilwood 13" TCE's so I bolted on the wheel and shook it as hard as I could. Nice and tight now. Rinse and repeat for the other side and had the same results. I only took off a tiny amount of metal but they are nice and snug now.

Still set on the softest settings all the way around. I need studs as my wheels required spacers up front to clear these thicker struts and now I only get 3 turns of the lug into the thread on those wheels. Once those are in and I get the alignment done I will play with the settings.

Ride is much softer than the race spec Leda setup I took off (this standard kit has much softer springs than I ran on the Leda) and it is quieter. I will report on the ride and such later when I have some time on them.

Cheers,
Dave

 

Thanks Dave, Glad I could help.

 

Being there for our clients is job one...

I'm glad everything worked out as Way and I thought.

Peter
M7 Tuning
562-608-8123

 

Hey All,

I have been running around working my tail off and playing on the track with motorcycles much mroe than cars... I know... I know... for shame! I finally got out and ripped it up in the car with the M7s and had a blast. The car is a better compromise for street and track and damn near as good at the track as my old Leda full race setup with stupid high spring rates and shock valving to match. I am a fairly advanced track driver/instructor/racer and found everything a tad slower in transitions and weight transfer but that did have advantages over the choppy stuff (perhaps better matched shock valving too, hard to say). It would be much easier for most folks to learn and improve their driving on these as there is actually much more movement in the car to accompany weight transfer and my passengers could detect changes more which made explaining things while taking them for a ride much more valuable for them... unless it was just a particularly bright and sensitive bunch that day. I am really happy with them.

It's worth noting that I have camber plates and adjustable rear control arms and dialed in a lot of negative camber up front, a lot less than that much in the rear and have the ride height set fairly low. Near zero toe on both end with just a smidge of toe out in front. My settings left the car neutral but not rotating under hard trailing throttle and gentle braking at 38 psi all the way around but bumping up the shock damping in the rear and raising air pressures to 41 got the car so I bring the tail around with trailing throttle and really make it move with medium trail braking. It isn't tweaked to perfect but I really don't care for driving schools as i just want it playful and responsive.

Thanks to Way and Peter for both great support and a great product!

Dave