OK, I we all consider changing our spark plugs to be a very easy task. In looking at NGK's website, though, it states the following:

"The spark plug holes must always be cleaned prior to installation, otherwise you may be torquing against dirt or debris and the spark plug may actually end up under-torqued, even though your torque wrench says otherwise."

I'm always careful about making sure no dirt fall down inside, but I don't actually "clean" the holes. Anyone else do this? What to you use?

Also, what about using anti-seize on the plugs?

I feel like I'm sooo over thinking things again.

 

Ya,cleaning!
That's funny that they say "clean" holes,cuz it's like peering down into a mine shaft or a deep well!

 

+1 to you.

I would like to know more in every point of changing plugs as I'm chaning my stock plugs so soon.

 

I would think that cleaning the holes, if I were going to do it, would be done without the sparkplug in place correct?
How the heck are you going to clean the holes and not drop stuff in to the cylinder?

The Plug wires have caps to prevent dirt etc from entering the holes. When you remove the original sparkplugs I would think as long as you are carefull and don't throw a bunch of debris down there you should be OK.

I normally clean/powerwash the engine compartment prior to working on it so knocking stuff in to it should be minimal.

When you take the plug wires off as long as the caps are not cracked etc there shouldn't be any thing at the bottom to cause an issue. The current sparkplug being removed will keep the seat clean.

I use antisieze on all sparkplugs in all of my vehicles since I don't believe it would hurt anything as long as it is used sparingly.

 

it's a way to have denyability, the more you say do this do that the more you can blame failure on the customer . plus that crap ain't mini specific.

 

The only problem with using copperslip/anti-sieze on the threads is that the torque figures will be determined on a dry thread, so you may actually over-stress the threads in the head.

 

its just spark plugs. tighten them to 30 newton meters and check torque every oil change. your making a mountain out of a mole hill.

 

I'm new here so bear with me. I am changing my plugs tomorrow (just finished the alta exhaust and they shorted me one v-clamp so watch that) and installing the NKG. Do you guys think they'll make any difference. Also, I have the 17% pulley but I don't think I'm up to that task. Ya'll know of anyone in NC that could do it?

 

I pretty much acknowledged this at the start. Also, like most here, I don't have any formal training as a mechanic, so I thought maby there was a "trick of the trade" that could be shared with not only myself, but the rest of the NAM community. You never know unless you ask, and it's too late to ask after you break/dammage something.

 

true

 

I went to the Auto parts store and asked for NGK plug #BKR7EQUP, he came back with NGK plug #PZFR6F-11. I just had a 15% pulley installed . What is the correct plug?

I want to get this right before I break something else. My confidence is starting to wane!

 

BKR7EQUP is the correct plug...

 

i was on the phone with ngk this week.

the pzfr6f-11 is a single electrode "small electrode" plug in the stock heat range.

the 4 prong plug you mention is a step colder "7" series.

but if you want a single electrode ngk in a 7 series, your ONLY choice is a large electrode v split zfr7f-11 (ngk stock 2975). they don't make any of the small tip artsy fartsy plugs 1 range colder. (and neither does anybody else except denso.)

aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh hhhhhhhh

what is it with this plug torque in-lb stuff over and over? every plug i've ever put in had directions to compress the washer by xxxx amount of a turn, NOT to some in-lb number. my densos installed that way didn't come loose. and if you do it by turn number, you can put anti-sieze lube on the threads and not worry about overtorquing.

aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh hhhhhhhhhhh

 

torque is the acurate way to do this (and almost anything)

Anti seze is a good idea but does NOT overcome overtorque...

 

I was thinking of doing this myself...looks like you can just skip the antisieze.

 

Its just a spark plug till it come shooting out of your cylinder head leaving no threads behind. your mole hill just became a mountain. TRUST ME!

 

This is the JCW plug right? Is it the same as the what the GP car uses?

 

What is used on the GP or JCW car and what does Jan recommend before a tune? I bought the BKR7EQUP laser platinums. Please help!

 

These are the plugs Wayland says to put in.

 

For a great price check out

http://www.ngk.com/results_cross.asp...r7equp&x=0&y=0