http://www.gatewayclassiccars.com/di...7&location=STL

Can you check out this car, give me some opinions. And can you explain to me what a mini 7 series is? This is a trusted auto sales company where I'm from... I'm just looking for as much info as yall can give me before I go in there and talk to him. I wanna be able to knowledgeably talk to him and know what prices I should have in mind for her. I already have the chart printed off to look for rust spots. Thanks guys.

 

The two initial models of Mini were the Morris Mini Minor and the Austin "Se7in".

The "Se7en" was made from '59-'61 according to p.22 of the REES BOOK (good reference book to have). It looks right at a glance - the 8-bar front grille seems right anyway, as does the shifter location. The Se7en only came in three colors that year: Farina Gray, Tartan Red and Speedwelll Blue - that looks close to the Tartan Red I've seen online, but it's hard to tell. Minis did not have the contrasting white roof until 1961 with the "Super Se7en", and even that detail is correct, which is very encouraging... Could it be original paint? The mind boggles...

Can't tell if it's a Basic or DeLuxe model, as things could have been added/changed over the years. For instance, the DeLuxe had a chrome gas cap AND license plate frame and that car has a black plate frame - pretty minor stuff. I'm seeing chrome accents in the cabin (the switch area and door trim) which was form the Deluxe, but it could have been added later. I'm guessing it's an actual Deluxe though. Nice...

If it's not a total rust-bucket underneath, it seems a good price for what amounts to a fairly rare specimen of the very early Mini... Be sure to carefully inspect it, though. It looks like you'll need new window seals -they look a bit tatty, and cracked seals leak water into the car. Water=rust, so be sure to carefully inspect the door and rear pockets, under the rear seat and up inside the boot (the metal under the rear window is a bad area). Besides the "usual suspects" as well - rocker panels, fenders/wings, etc.

Price will depend on rust as well as all the mechanicals listed in the Buyer's Guide. if it's really low-rust with a strong engine and straight suspension, the price seems about right, given the age. If it's been repainted or in an accident, start adjusting down (as much as $1000 if you see overspray all over, etc.). You can dicker on the interior as well - the dash liner's sagging. If there's rust, start lowering the price - have him take pics of the ENTIRE floor under the carpet and post them here if you see any rust. Remember to poke at solid-looking paint with a plastic screwdriver handle or something non-marring - you don't want to find out like I did that the paint is a shell over a paper-back book sized rust parch.

GOod luck!!!

 

Wow.... that was all AMAZING information. I'm gonna read over this a few more times and then look up some info on those models. See if it's all original, see if it's worth my time. Now, with this model of mini, considering that I do want it as just a toy to play with, am I going to be able to use mods for other models as well? Like... for example, would I be able to mod this one to look very similar to MiniManiac74's ride? (Link to his picture below)

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...3/ppuser/16001

 

Um... you COULD, but it would be a shame if you did IMHO... Cars of that vintage are hard to come by and should, I think, remain "vintage". If you want the Sportpack look with the big 13X7 wheels and such, it's best to look at later-series (80s or even 90's era) Mini - they'll have the right brakes and such, and are less rare than a classic '60 in such condition. If you're wanting to MOD the car, a re-VIN isn't so much of an issue - I'd leave the actual 1960 Se7en for a collector, myself.

 

Oh yeah... I totally agree. I was saying that if it did turn out to be jsut another restoration, and it needed some body work then I'd go about changing it up. I agree that classics that are matching should remain classics. But if it is just another mini that was made to look vintage... I'd probably end up changing it around.

 

The last picture, of the boot shows the seal on the body shell, not on the boot where it would be on a Se7en....you can even see the holes in the boot where the seal would attach.

Like I said, a small point but indicates some body work has been done. So the question becomes how much and how well?

The door cards, back seat cards and dash shelf trim are an obvious re-do...fair work from the looks of it but not great. The wood over the 3 dial bin' is an add on but makes me then ask, did any 7 come with the 3 dial? I thought they just had the single dial, but I'm not sure. Would need to look into that one.

Has it an alternator or a generator? Positive earth? A Se7en should be a gen' and pos earth shouldn't it? The heater valve is right...

That seems like a pretty good price for a Se7en in what appears to be good shape. I'd look under the carpets and at the underside in general.

The engine compartment has also been painted out at some time I think ... weren't they body color?

I'd say that's an OK price for something that runs reliably. Given that it is a MK1 and looks to be in decent shape if I was looking....I'd continue to investigate this one. But as said, to keep as original as possible....


BTW - April 2008 MINIWORLD has a writeup of a 59 Austin Seven - even a red one - lots of pictures for comparison. Their writer gives it very high marks for being authentic...

 

The cars is "refurbished" but defintiely not "restored". Upholstery is correct, but the panels are quite ill-fitting especially the dash and rear pockets. I don't care for the undercoat showing in the wheel wells and the valance. It could be hiding something (like that's as far as the "restoration" went. They just flat blacked the engine compartment which should be body colored and the trunk is untouched. That indicates it was just a repaint (not necessarily a bad one) not a restoration. You'd have to have soemone knowledgeable go over that shell to see how it was done and whether its worth asking price.

It is likely priced near the top of the range for an 850-powered car.

You got to want an original to put up with the sluggishness of an 850. As it is a Seven it would be a shame for it not to go to someone who really wants it as original. If you want a Mini that scoots around and has some zip to it, this is not the car.

 

All very good points Matt,Capt & Minimad.

I do see a dynamo on there & I'd guess that since it still has the dynamo it is most likely positive earth.

I very much like that this car appears to be relatively unmolested. Original old cars are becoming fewer & farther between. What you do with a car is your personal choice. If it were mine I'd want to keep much of the originality intact if I could. I know I would change some things, but I would want any changes to be period correct to the car & be reversible.

A car of that vintage has many stories to tell. You'll need to investigate what has & hasn't happened to it. Once you determine if it is a solid car or is in need of a few patches, or a serious rust repair or even a reshell then you can make an informed decision. Pictures can be foolers. Although Capt has seen things in them I did not pick up on.

Do go & look at the car with a very critical eye. Bring a friend along too. They can be the voice of reason when you are in love with a car & fail to see the flaws lucking just below the surface. Many people have fallen into that trap of it's so cute shiny & red. Only to bring it home to discover your beauty is hiding a very rusty past. I would insist that the car goes up on a lift for a complete underside inspection.

Good luck. I hope you found your car.

 

Oh don't worry. I'm bringing my dad along to take a look at it with me. We are both gonna take a very close critical look at it.

 

Good luck.

Even if this turns out not to be the car for you it should be fun for you & dad. Plus you will learn more about Mini's than you do now & it will help you in the search for the right one.

 

Before you go look up the thread on buying a Mini and/or rust issues so you know where to look for the problems...

http://www.minimania.com/web/SCatago...3/ArticleV.cfm

 

Thanks for the tip minimad... I actually have that downloaded in PDF form already. I'm gonna print it out and take it with me.

 

I tried contacting this dealer several times over the past 7 months with no response, WTF?

Also I want to say that if you are looking for a Mini to "mod", then why note look for a cheaper Mini with a solid body/bigger motor, MKIII or so? It just seems to me that you are looking for maybe a more sporty Mini with some vintage flavor? I say that maybe this is not the Mini for you, there is a great Mini on Minimania that appears to maybe be more your style? I have talked to this guy in the past when he listed the car the first time, however he changed his mind and decided not to sell and I found my 67. He emailed me letting me know he was going to have to sell her and wanted to let me know. I informed him that I already have a Mini but would be glad to pass the word for a really nice Mini. He provided me with some info. when I first talked to him but I really don't remember much except the lady that owned this Mini had magenta hair!!!!

http://www.minimania.com/web/id/7586...ale_Detail.cfm

 

I agree with this 100%.

Yes, this is what I was saying before - if you want a more "modern" classic Mini with Sportpack arches and such, you'd be much better served to just start with a 80's or 90's era Mini (avoid fuel injection - stick with carbs) - it will have a larger motor, will already be guaranteed to work with modern, unleaded fuel and will have the right brakes for a 13" wheel swap (if it doesn't already come with wheels of that size).

Keep in mind thugh that while thw 13X7 "deep dish" type wheels with wide arches LOOKS tough, it actually negatively impacts the "go kart handling" that the classic Mini is famous for. Unless you're adding horsepower and top speed, you're actually better served by, say, 12X5 wheels - just depends on what kind of driving you mean to do. If you want tight handling, then it's even better to go with the origonal 10" wheels found on the 60's and 70's era cars. Note that if your car is a later-model one with front disc brakes standard, you'll have to upgrade the discs to the smaller Cooper-style roters to clear the tiny 10" wheels - stock disc brakes (setting aside the primo Cooper roters) are meant to go with 12" wheels and up and will foul the inside of the 10" wheels.

 

Too much money. Unfortunately, to make this car worth the asking price it would require $4-6000+, leaving you with $12K invested in a $7K car. I say this because you must be very careful with recent export cars from England as they are all rusty, and expensive to repair. As seen by the overspray and lacking of certain trim (ie non oem bumpers, and lack of "whiskers" (part of the grill trim), it's safe to say the quality of the resto is questionable. Also, the really early cars aren't worth as much here, nor as sought after as they are in the UK. If you've ever driven in a 1000cc-1400 cc mini, be prepared to be disappointed. Also, if it still has the original single leading shoe brakes, be prepared to also be disappointed. I remember 15 years ago you could find better ones than this for under a grand, and therefore can't justify spending $7k for a bodged 850 from England.

Sorry to disappoint.

dr dave

 

resprayed and over sprayed to sell. I usually stay away from dealers when buying old cars.