After hauling my MINI on trailers that were too big and hard to load and unload a lowered car onto I decided to design and build a custom hydraulic tilt-bed, long ramped, tandem axle trailer specifically for my MINI GP.

It is the easiest trailer to work with for a MINI imaginable. Now that I've gotten it worked out and completed I've decided that we'd be willing to build a few more for owners that want one for track days, or to haul behind their RV.......heck, I even use mine to drop my car off at the dealer for service.

As shown on the attachment they'll sell for around $4,500. For racers, a front tire rack over the cars hood could be added.

Anyone interested can e-mail dan@pacific-tek.com with any questions or requests.

 

Looks great -- I assume the GP as an accessory is extra, huh?

By the way, you may need to check with NAM to advertise as a vendor.

 

If that were a little bit longer, I could also haul an MGB.

 

My main intent was to show the completed trailer. I'm not eager to build dozens or hundreds as another business.. but was asked by a couple of my fellow clubmembers to build them one.
So, I'd be willing to share info for those who might want to build their own or maybe build a few as time permits.
Dan

 

Thats a darn nice trailer! Wish I had one of those when I trailered mine from Oregon to Texas....that Uhaul trailer just didnt fit right at all.

 

Whats the tongue weight when loaded with the Mini?

 

It's approx. 500 lbs.

 

sweet trailer!

 

Nice trailer.....but boy those wheel strap attachment locations are way to far from the wheels.

 

The tie-down locations were not a mistake in measuring......If you tie both straight up and down the car can still try to move fore and aft.
This way, you pull onto the trailer 'til you hit the stops on the deck, set your handbrake, install the rear straps first pulling forward, then secure the front ones pulling aft.
Now the car cannot move in either direction

 

But the straps are located above the center line of the wheels. They should be at or below the center caps. Check with anybody that does vehicle hauling.

 

The actual pulling is done at about the centerline of the wheels where the strap meets the metal ring.
Believe me, I've done lots of towing (street cars, race cars, trucks) and having all four straps pulling against one another is the best way to keep the load stationary.
Pulling outward also prevents any possible contact with the coachwork by the ratchets.
The slings grabbing the tires are also a good way to keep from bending anything under the car when you secure it to A arms, suspension parts, etc.

I took this trailer up to well in excess of the speed limit here in California and swerved it around.......the car didn't budge.
See attached photo
Dan

 

Yea.....that pic shows it a lot better.