Is it possible to get a nice paint finish on a model without purchasing a spray kit? I'd like to change the color on a fairly good-sized model, probably 10" or so. (Not a MINI, but an '59 Chevy panel truck. Lots of surface area that would have to be painted. The original looks to be about twice as long as my MINI !)

Any hints would be appreciated!:smile:

 

personally, I prefer to use spray. The result from the spray is much better than just paint with brush. If you just want to touch up small area, you can buy some entry level spray gun and use the air can. Just take some practice on paper or other item before you paint on your truck. Also, use the masking tape to cover up the area.

Look up the internet for spray instructions.

Just practice before you spray on your projects.

 

Multiple light coats using spray paint can should work. Do several very light coats (not full coverage even) to provide a base (tooth) for a later, wetter coat to grab on to. This "grip" reduces dripping/running of that heavier wet coat, too. The wet coat should be wet, but don't over do it. Practicing beforehand on something like a plastic soft drink bottle is a good idea. Also, make sure and build a proper wire holder for the piece which can be rotated when spraying....useful for setting the piece aside in a dust-free spot for drying, too. These are tips I've used. Good luck!!

 

Since I own a business invloved in model car parts and model car building I can help out. First is this existing model a diecast subject? Konwing the base material is the first step in guiding you waht to do next. And no you don't need a paint "Kit" there are plenty of great automotive spray paints in cans large enough to do the job. But before we start we need to know what the existing finish is and the submaterial ie plastic, metal etc.

Check out www.scalemotorsport.com for other details like upholstery patterns for changing the intereor, textured spray paints for adding more detail on the chassis and engine bay, all sort of stuff plus some very unique building tools.

 

Thank you all for the replies... you're giving me the courqage to consider the project seriously. The model I'd be working with is a completed manufactured model, I'd be covering over the existing finish to match a friend's car. I'll go check it out in light of what you've told me and decide....

The model has decals on it that I assume I'd have to sand off,so I'd be starting with a sanded finish. I'd like to match a '59 chevy color called "crown sapphire." Does anyone know if there's a color match chart out there somewhere?

Thanks again!

 

since you say, change the color, i'm going to assume its a metal kit and not a poly or resin kit. Ive changed the color of a few 1:18th scale metal kits before, but its a challenge to say the least. i had to mess up a few cars before i got it right. the easies way i found to do it was use regular automotive paint. single stage enamel. i got a cheap gun at big lots for 15 bucks and i still use it today even for my plastic models.

we need to start a modelers thread up on here, i havent dont any in a long time, ive had alot of other things to do since i stopped.....

i'm not here to brag, but.....





this one won me a 1st place trophy, a first place ribbon, and 2 secong place ribbons in seperate contests. now that it has won 5 times, it no longer allowed to be intered in any contestes held by any of the local modeling clubs!!!

 

Mgear, are those carbon fiber decals your company offers waterslide? i would want to apply them to a contoured surface and i'm not sure if they would distort too well.....

also, how does the textured paint lay down? does it "texture" immediatley or do you have to wait for it to change like with wrinkle paint?

 

I never was the best at painting kits, but you can get a decent finish with "Rattle Cans" just use multiple light coats. You can also wet sand with ulta fine sandpaper. I'd still recomend getting a cheap airbrush.

I'd probably strip the original finish. If it is diecast, then get an new empty metal paint can, put the body in it, then fill it with a strong solvent like Acetone or Denatured Alcohol. For plastic kits you can use "Castrol Super Clean" over a period of a few days to remove the paint, and not damage the plastic.

Dave.

 

btw, i painted the model above with Tamaiya brand paints. they are they best ive found. you can try to make them run, but even if it runs, it seems like the paint is self leveling!

i also use thier primer and their bottle paints for details and smaller parts.

 

Just an suggestion for stripping existing paints/decals from a plastic model. Take a can of easy-off oven cleaner and spray the surface. Place the parts in a ziplock baggie and let them sit for several hours. Remove from baggie and wash with mild soap and water. This has worked for me with old model car kits, I don't know what the plastic composition was though.

 

its more like several minutes. the oven cleaner will mess up the polystyrene. i sue this method for stripping chrome tho.

 

Update:

I went back to Wal-mart to get the model that I was going to "mod" with a new paint job, and it was no more! They had like 3 of them one week, and the next week, none! Ditto for the other nearby wal-marts.

So.... Thank you all for your input. I was actually ready to tackle this project after reading your advice. If I run across this model again I'll give it a try...

And if anyone happens to run across a rat-fink-design type version of a '59 chevy panel van at wal-mart (cost around $10, I think), please let me know!:smile:

 

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