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JCW GarageInterested in John Cooper Works (JCW) parts for your 1st Generation MINI? This is where JCW upgrades and accessories for the Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs are discussed.
Greetings, I recently purchased a late 10/2006 MCS with lots of JCW goodies on it. The car runs and drives and passed California smog. While replacing the CV axles I managed to pop out one of the sway bar links so I’m waiting for delivery on those. That top bolt on the carrier bearing is unreachable with my hands but I managed to get at it with a sidewinder wrench and a deep socket stuffed full of paper towel. Sidewinder wrench
I’ve used the NAM vin Decoder and there’s no mention of the JCW kit. I have the JCW valve cover plate S16676.
The car also has JCW brakes, wheels, air filter box, honeycomb grills, front and rear badges. There is no red dot on the head. It also has aero side skirts. I haven’t removed the ECM to look for the sticker yet. The authentication document is not filled in.
Model Designation MINI R53 Date of production 20.10.2006 Color CHILI RED (851) Upholstery STOFF/LEDER MOLETTE/TARTAN ROT/SCHW (FDTN) Drive FRONT Type code RE33 Model COOPER S Series M R53 Body 3 doors Steering L Doors 3 EC W11 Displacement 1.60 Power 125
S463A Interior surface Alloy Patina S823A Hot-climate version S845A Acoustic fasten seat belt reminder S992A Control of number-plate attachment S228A Sports suspension settings Plus S563A Light package S481A Sports seat S262A ITS - Head airbag S470A Isofix-System S736A 2nd radio remote control key S441A Smoker package S255A Sports leather steering wheel S493A Storage compartment package S876A Radio frequency 315 MHz S853A Language version, English S657A Radio, BMW Business/MINI Boost S546A Revolution counter
S450A Height adjustment, passenger seat S692A Preparation, BMW 6-CD changer I-bus S650A CD drive S403A Glass roof, electrical S8SPA Control unit COP S925A Dummy-SALAPA S895A Additional fan S645A BMW US Radio S550A On-board computer S210A Dynamic stability control S319A Integrated universal remote control S521A Rain sensor S3ALA John Cooper Works Kit S5AAA Rear fog light S369A MINI LA wheel, S-spoke 85 S431A Interior mirror with automatic-dip S383A Roof and mirror caps, black S520A Fog lights S534A Automatic air conditioning S1CAA Selection of COP-relevant vehicles S249A Multifunction f steering wheel S522A Xenon Light S2TAA Differential lock 25%
Many of the Certificates are left blank, especially on factory JCWs. No need to fill it in. Proof that it’s a JCW is on the build sheet, as factory kits are listed there as option 3AL, dealer installed kits are not on the build sheet, and may be more important to have the certificate filled out at time of install so there is some documentation.
Thanks Jonny. The certificate I have appears to have been purchased more recently anyway. I don’t need or want a fake certification.
And many thanks to ECSTuning for running the vin. Order placed. 😁
Today I’ll clean the mess and replace the crank position sensor o-ring and replace the AC clutch coil. I’m tempted to pull the supercharger for oil service while I’m in this far but I will leave that for a winter project. I want to do some autumn driving!
The crank position sensor leak created a huge nasty mess typical of British cars from the 1960’s. After an hour of cleaning I got the AC clutch coil installed. It was a bear getting the pulley off and was time consuming. Hopefully it will hold vacuum and will be go for recharging.
The crank position sensor had to be excavated out of the oily dirt accumulation with a large screwdriver and a putty knife. I certainly don’t want another BMW o-ring since it’s a guaranteed failure after 5 years. Am I pissed about a $.10 part?
What is the little (1” across) dome shape thing on the top of the 6 speed just behind the front passenger (USA) tranny mount bolt? I can’t get a good photo of it from the front. It’s weeping oil out of it and maybe has popped out 1/16” since I can see bronze or brass color.
I suspect it’s a job for this winter when I replace the mounts.
Ok, I can see two hex bolts (nuts?) under the 6speed transmission mount. One of them is loose. I suspect there may be preload on it. I’m going to tighten it gently with a long screwdriver and a hammer. Mounts will be replaced in a few months and I will get the Bentley book by then and hopefully identify them.
My '06 R52 is also a factory JCW, there is no sticker on the ECM, but the build sheet also has the 3AL kit as well...my car was made 9-13-2006, the plaque number is 16060
Thanks for that Bryan. Apparently they kept making the 2006 R53 well into November and sold them concurrently with the 2007 R56. The convertible is another story I’m learning.
Thanks for that Bryan. Apparently they kept making the 2006 R53 well into November and sold them concurrently with the 2007 R56. The convertible is another story I’m learning.
Kurt
The R52 convertible was made through the 2008 model year.....it was still supercharged as the earlier years
Here's a couple sites you might find of interest....first one is probably the most up to date registry for the JCW cars.....the second one is a site to get any JCW stickers that are missing from your car
The power steering line is touching the sway bar.
It appears to be routed through the guide with rubber protection on it.
Is it supposed to be on the other side of the rubber?
Hi All, I’m not a race car driver but I don’t mind mild street car mods. The ‘06 JCW came with Enkei J10 17” wheels and Conti Extreme Contact Sport Plus 205/45 ZR 17 tires. I’m preparing for a rear end bushing refresh.
I purchased a Whiteline 20mm sway bar since it was available locally. The Powerflex trailing arm bushings are arriving with new sway bar end links tomorrow. I’m sticking with stock control arms from Delphi.
All this is is prior to an alignment and summer fun!
Be careful with trailing arm bushings. Its highly advised not to use poly bushings as it can cause things to break. I left my powerflex trailing bushes sitting in the box!
I was as surprised as you, apparently the weak point is the bolts will walk themselves loose damaging the threads or shear the bolts off completely. Mainly because a lot of these bolts are "one time use" in the rear end, especially if you've converted to R56 trailing arms. I personally went with R56 trailing arms with standard bushings and upgraded every other bushing to poly back there. To each their own, i just wanted to chime in as this forum post below deterred me from installing poly trailing arm bushes even though there sitting on a shelf.
Thanks for that! There is a note in the Bentley manual on cars from 05/2003 about the self tapping bolt that goes through the bushing. They say to tap out the hole but don’t mention replacing the bolt. I think a standard threaded bolt of the correct grade with thread locker is a good idea.
I’m using Powerflex purple bushings which are quite compliant and am not planning to track the car so not too worried about breaking bolts.
I put off the project because the weather is too nice. Must drive.
