Oh, and I would replace that crank bolt ASAP. I wouldn't want to be driving around on a used timing bolt....

 

Yes, change the bolts and we have the parts if you need them and the kits that are trusted. Lots of people run our n14 timing kit, when I do mine that's what I am using. Like they said above its a Cassette dropped in design. Lower bolts clamps down and holds that lower main gear.

 

Cars back to a monster again.. idk how bit the boost tube on drivers side came off. That'd explain why it felt na and I could smell exhaust oily kinda smell..
no code because I had that code tuned out when we were troubleshooting..
So Dan did well , my car did dummy along with me..
idk how but it did and I should have not doubted my guys work because I know he's solid. But i got scared because it felt sooooo bad but thx god , THX MR COOPER HIM SELF its back to normal..
o yea. Its got a new serpentine belt too..
Aaaaaaand I put on the better intercooler.

 

Glad it's running well!!!! After all that stress I think I deserve a ride :D

 

your welcome to rip it too.. give me a heads up next car show/meet you go to again. Exp if its that euro one , that was a good time !
and just you watch ! Im telling ya , this cars actually faster than my r53.. msybe not 0-60 but anytging after it sure is..but even the 0-60 IS CLOSE..
thx again Dan !

 

Glad it got figured out! It’s certainly frustrating when you do some maintenance on the car and then it runs crappy after.

I know that’s the eBay splitter… but can you share the link for the one you bought? I’ve been looking for a full width one for mine.

 

Here a link to the flares I used... they look nice BUT they're very cheap , very thin. But they mount very firm and very stiff so unline the 500$ front lips , I bet I can go over 100mph no problems atleast !
i began putting in my Unionjack lights too along with leds.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/14506476124...mis&media=COPY

 

I've had that front splitter in my cart for the longest since last year sometime was looking to see if I could find a vehicle with one installed.....also there's another one as well......

 

I knew it was gonna start happening. I'm almost positive the clutch is stock oem still judging by how stiff it is.
so last night I was playing around with a crowd of Type R's and i was laying into it pretty hard ( had to atleast showup the stock typeR ) and Ole copper impressed me with how it put down the power. Turbo spool sounds awesome and power comes on immediately and the bov sound AMAZING, lol like I'm playing grand turismo again on ps2. My mew intercooler is ALSO STUUUUUUUPID efficient WOW !!!!! Normal driving it's iat IS THE SAME AS AMBIENT while moving amd when I did a 1-5th gear full throttle pull in 69'F and sun , the car peaked 79'F FOR ONLY a few seconds and immediately dropped down to only 5'F above ambient again and then in 2min it was back to ambient outside temp again.
I'm pretty prettttttty sure this ic i got is a helix type. Id be willing to bet its made in the same factory and all but it didnt have mounting tabs welded on, wasn't painted black ( which IS STOOPID imo for a front mount to be black ) and it didn't have a helix logo sprayed across it. Those 3x things made it 500$ cheaper.
if you can't weld or don't have access, they sell this ic 180-250 with welded on tabs ready to install and ITS ABSOLUTELY WORTH EVERY DOLLAR. I got mine for 140$ without tabs. And honestly with my car , I didn't even need tabs, the bumper and ic hoses were enough to hold it securely in spot ,i just did the tabs as precautionary because i need stuff to be rite or it will forever be on my mind.
anyways Im ranting so heres what happened last night..
I BEGAN TO BLOW THROUGH my clutch !! After heating it up amd running hard , when I came into 5th gear at full throttle, full boost , it pegged the Rev limiter. I thought I miss shifted but when I went into nuetral and back I to gear , anything past 1/2 throttle ( because it makes boost so soon ) it would begin to slip 😔 😟 🙁. Wot woo !!!!! Dang it !!!
lol I bought rims and tires last night too, 18in silver focal with new continental contact tires AND I ACC BOUGHT THE WRONG SET as there were 2x online. So they were 5lug and ofcourse didn't fit. Lolol ugh. But thxgod I sold them literally in 5min after relisting them for what I bought them for..
So here's links to the clutch and flywheel I decided to go with..
Dan ???? My man ! My savior ! Looks like I'm gonna need to enlist your help soon.
Unfortunately my time hasnt been as free as it has been because of taking in my son and I don't wanna get into it but my ex is just a terrible person and my son came from a broken home. So my times being eating up and I wouldn't have been able to afford this clutch n flywheel either BUT THXFULLY paypal allowed me to do a pay in 4x. Without that , I'd not been able to get it , atleast not until next month..
so if I for some reason ordered something incorrectly plz lmk asap !!
I DO plan on getting an exeddy or atleast oem throw out bearing and arp flywheel bolts and rear main seal.. anything else you suggest ? Money is TIGHT so i cant go to the moon with this fix/mod Unfortunately. Thooooooooough if this dude flys up and scoops my r53 , I will be good to go then. But I can't count my chickens until they hatch..

https://www.ebay.com/itm/38390871085...mis&media=COPY

https://www.ebay.com/itm/40483385022...mis&media=COPY

 

You guys suggest I go stage 2x or stage 3x 6puck ???

 

I personally don't like puck clutches. As a daily driver, way to "On-Off" engagement for me - not a fan of clutch stutter around town. I can't imagine a stock-ish dual mass flywheel would hold up very well with one of those.

I went with the ClutchMasters FX100 and steel flywheel. Feels very much like stock, but holds much better. I imagine with their aluminum flywheel would be ever more fun.

 

I personally like the on/off engagement. That's how ny how's were and I hate how stock feels so thats actually the feel im looking for..
​​​​r53i did get a new flywheel with it too ( Sachs) so I won't be using my old fflywheel. That's only reason I got the 6 puck....
once I'm home I will be dropping the car off at a buds to do the job and I hoooooping he will have time to walnut blast my valves too. Then all major maintenance has been taken care of. And an upgraded lowside fuelpump will come next.

 

Whatever flywheel you go with, before it gets installed, make sure it has the timing tool hole on the backside.

 

Looking good Adam, if you do the walnut blast are you gonna slap a catch can back in there? I saw it in the early stages but then you deleted it, looking at this engine bay is like studying martian terrain to me, I kinda know what I'm looking at but some parts I have no clue what's going on What catch can was that btw? I'm looking for a lighter, aluminum one to replace the heavy chromoly can that's in use now and have about 700 miles before the next oil swap. Congrats on the fam-court win btw !

 

yes I am.. I had a custom intake made to fit my turbo and be able to route in a catch can...
it's taken some getting used to for me also but I'm quickly learning about turbos..

 

 

I will pass it along to my bud who's doing the job for me..
thx for the heads up !

 

New rearmain seal , throw out bearing , dm flywheel , pressure plate and Clutch are all in !
once he has the car back together then it will be walnut blasting time for the valves and then I will jet out there and pick it up and I actually plan on taking backroads the WHOLE way back home to start breaking in the clutch. It's about 40miles away direct shot freeway so doing stop n go on side roads will be probably about 50miles and take probably 1hr-1.5hr and that should be a GOOD start to breaking it in. It requires a 500mile breakin period so I'm going to do it just like I did with my r53's. Lol it's gonna be hard not to just romp on it and feel it out because I'm really really gonna wanna and feel if the valve cleaning helped at all ( I don't have any idle issue or loss of power or cel ) but I just wanna make sure...
I also ordered a bunch of carbonfiber overlays for interior trim pieces to better tie in the carbonfiber dash and shifter.. id REALLY like to sell the jcw steering wheel out if this car along with the r56 jcw shiftlight id literally just ordered BECAUSE i wanna drop the coin and get one of those custom led/shiftlight/data displaying carbonfiber/Alcantara flat bottom steering wheel. I also ordered a few more goodies for the outside too.
I don't wanna go and completely fix the dents in this car YET because I'd 1st want to hit the track at road America or another one my buddy had mentioned ( can't remember which one ) but he said it might be better suited for me because it is a much lower speed track and i am a novice. Though i can swing a car like no other on the street , i know its going to be completely different on track. I'm not tooting my own horn or anything but I think I will be a pretty good if not DARN good driver. I have done a few time attacks in parking lots but that's it. And lol your lucky to get over 40mph in parking lots runs. And I did grow up driving rwd v8's so throwing around a fwd small hatch is very easy for me. Lol atleast in my r35 " project Rice " I could induce oversteer with in diving into corners if I needed. Lol yea , i could absolutely swing it the rear and it absolutely did help corning vs keeping the car fully planted because if I didn't induce oversteer on those corners at that speed , there's NO WAY the car would have hung those corners , lol I watched numerous times where fwd cars would understeer that turn..
this car definitely doesn't handle like my r53 did but it definitely would give it a run for its money strait line speed.. I still could and might upgrade the suspension in this car , idk to what extent because the ride is kinda harsh even stock ( I felt the r53s are just king of road feel and handling) but I think I'd atleast like to get some different/lighter/wider rims and better more aggressive offset and id like to also put rev9 hypersteet2 coilovers on this mini like my last 2x also. Maybe strut bars too.
it already has the upgraded thicker jcw swaybars so i will probably leave those UNLESS i cant get this car to oversteer.. I have not really had a chance to put this car through its paces in the twisties but the season is upon us !
so hooooooookpefully I can pick up the car in a few days and then i will give you guys some more updates and pics..plenty more pics !

 

Awesome, buddy finished the clutch job and due to incoming storm , I'm going to puck it up now 1030pm and we're due for upto 8in tomorrow..
the valve blasting will have to wait BUT wait until you see the move I made instead...
I will update tomorrow how the new clutch feels n stuff..
Stay safe n mod on guys !!!
ordered something SWEEEEEEEEET and a bunch of other little goodies.
and a few things came today too.

 

Something is ****ed..
the pos chatters SO bad and if I press the clutch in 2x or 3x times then hold it. Listen to **** ****ing **** !!!
dont even care about all the other **** now , 4p ****ing miles , 1200 ****ing dollars down the drain !

FUUUUUUUUCK !

 

So, it chatters like that only when the pedal is pushed down? How does it drive otherwise? I have a few theories...

First theory, that's just how it is since its a "racing" clutch. Might just have to deal with it, or change your driving style, and not ride the clutch pedal. Push the pedal down to shift, and that's it. If you want to coast or sit at a red light, put it in neutral and let the pedal out.

Next theory... Did you replace the clutch release arm and pivot pin? The pivot pin can wear down, since its a plastic composite piece. And, the release lever has been known to bend and crack without warning. Mine bent, but you'd never know just from looking at it. The only way I could tell was a strange wear mark inside the bellhousing, and a rub mark on my pressure plate cover. If yours is bent, it might be preventing your pressure plate from releasing completely.

Next theory, and I'm grasping here since I've never run one of these clutches before, it might just need some break in time...

 

Drove 150 miles yesterday hiccup free , doesn't do that stupid chattering noise either when driving and it drive GREAT. I even gave it a few full throttle 1-5th gear pulls and did kicked the clutch each time and it bit and BIT HARD and good with 0 slip and 0 hesitation..
It seems once its got a little heat in it it stops making tgat noise when i press in the clutch. And it only does that if I kick the clutch down in nuetral at a stop.. I wonder if it's the hill assist somehow not lining up well or recognizing this aftermarket clutch setup. I read where others had the almost same symptoms and they found out it was an issue with hill assist. Thing is too the hill assist DIDNT work on the one hill I was on and I expected it to be and it caused me to bog the car pretty bad and have to suddenly recover so I didn't stall it and coast backwards.
I ALSO can tell once i put heat in the clutch it will bite much sooner as i release the clutch and when it bites that low and that soon it will cause the Flywheel to NOT chatter and then it feel much much more like my performance r53 clutchs ive run.
I only got about 200miles of breakin of the 500 it recommends aaaaand unfortunately 75% of that was 6th gear freeway cruising. But I was stuck In a traffic jam for about 30min and it was bumper to bumper/stop N go and lolol I never been happy to get in a traffic jam befor but it was perfect for breaking in the clutch because rite as I'd get into 6th I'd have to slow down again ..
and i didnt get it to make that noise either after the longish drive yesterday..
I got ALOT of stuff done and put on the car too. I will have to take pics and will tell what ice done.. but the interior is really really starting to look classy imo..

 

Lol and look at these pic , think my clutch was being over powered??? Lolol and NO , I know how to drive manual and drive it VERY well too. This is unfortunately what happens when you probably put close to 2x the power through a clutch than it was designed for..
I gotta get a video up soon showing you guys how well this car pulls.. I still cabt believe I don't need to down shift on freeway when passing , or in any gear for that matter , once it is at full spool which takes literally 2seconds only after going full throttle it feels and pulls as well as if i had down shifted and raised the revs too befor dropping it into gear to pass...
Buuuuuut i cant soeak for the cars life befor me, although the guy i got it from drove it like I've never seen a mini driven before..lol I'd like to see him try those stunts NOW that the cars this fast..lol he was able to do that all when it was in power reduction mode and literally thought the car was " still pretty fast " lololol .

 

Not decided yet what I'm going to do about this transmission noise and excessive chattering. If it no better at the 500x mile breakin period. It's ALL gonna have to be taken out , shipped back and gonna have to bite the bullet and go full clutchmasters 1x piece lightweight flywheel then. I'm almost positive it's a janky throw out bearing because other than the noise , there's no other issues really..
so I been getting the billet manifold figured out and I had to come to family get together today but after I get back home tonight I'm HOPING to have the manifold on and tested. But I will also have to finish figuring out routing because of the throttlebody has changed angles.
I am deleting the passenger side pcv and I found i believe are barstool anti scuffers that once heated up barely fit over the valvecover exit and created a hella good seal.
i was fighting the manifold for abit until 1st I realized DUH I got my intake hose on still THEN I had to find the hidden 10mm bolt underneath WHICH YOU DONT need a wobble socket for , just use 1/4in extensions and push the flexbrakeline out the way.
my valves look pretty caked so I'm debating walnut blasting them my self because my bud just ran out of time when doing the clutch n stuff..
im also going to run dedicated vacuum sources for the boost gauge along with my bov reference so they dont alter one anothers reading by having to BOTH t Off of a map sensor adapter so who knows how that actually can effect the map reading if a vacuum source is being stolen from beneath it..
so here's some pics showing progress...

 

Whoaaaaa !!! THIS MANIFOLD COMPLETELY CHANGED the power delivery on the car !!!
it lost abit of low end because of the big/short runners but not too much because the plenum volume is so large but the mid range/ top end OH MY GOSH ! WOOOOOW it picked up power and I mean like definitely definitely a butt dyno improvement, it barks the tires way louder and harder hoing into 2nd and 3rd than it ever has , the engine though.. idk ??? It sounds PRETTY LOUD with my intake setup, it literally sounds like a hurricane crossbreed with a hover vacuum. I had to remove my bov because I was chasing down a vacuum leak ( blew off boost tube because clamp failed ) but I got it figured out , with help of my daughter ( bout time she came out to help again ) and lol we were working at it from 1030pm till 300am. Lol she absolutely loves it also , we just went cruising around late morning then on empty city streets breaking in the clutch and e joking this noises the car now makes.. it ALSO will usually give 1x ONLY ONE decently loud POP too between shifts now..lol i LOVE it.. buuuuut heres the thing. I might leave the stock upgraded /new style bov because instead of a LOUDS phshhhh hisssssss from the bov the dv sounds like a sci-fi type noise instead ( kind of like how the cars sounded in need4speed or old forza) that chipy almost electric but yet mechanical bewbewbewbowoooo noise and its not as audible as the pshhhhhh hissssssss.
I get to return the useless 100$ worth of autozone universal intake stuff because good ole menards comes through YET AGAIN. The plumbing piping not only was 1/5 the price it also fits 2x better and didn't require any hackery or injunengineering..
I also cleaned up the throttlebody before reinstall, I used copper gasket spray on both sides of those teflon gasket things and i also heatsoaked the manifold and retorqued the nuts 3x times ( I'm **** about vacuum hoses). I really put in effort and took my time to route vacuum lines not just the cleanest way but also in a way so I can easily fix any vacation leaks tgat might occur, though I took extra care to use zipties and hose clamps ON EVERY SINGLE vacuum source , even the stock soft lines that are just pressed on like on the fpr , I used strong zip ties to better hold on all those type lines.
I took extra care to hang up the sensors under the manifold also so they dont interfere or chafe on anything.
I honestly expected install to be harder but I was pleasantly surprised. It just took so long because I took my time because I didn't wanna have to do anything 2x. though the boost hose blowing odd threw me a curve ball but that happened during the 1st initial test drive.
it probably a REALLY good thing I replaced my manifold too because as you see , the pic of the stock on on the inside of the throttlebody inlet , IT HAS A BIG INTERNAL CRACK !!! HOW ??!!?? IS that possible ??? So i guess these aluminum /billet /sheet metal intake all add more than just performance but also help reliability then too. Which imo it absolutely does exp with how it runs its vacuum setup.
also !!!! is it a known issue WITH r56's WHERE the throttlebody connection wires sheathing be filled with oil ?? It was like SOMETHING had leaked behind there at a time and it went rite into the harness and filled the plug full of oil , i found NO oil leaks nor do i have any so it may have bedn a prior issue that was fixed or maybe when I replaced the valvecover??? Either way , that DEFINITELY could have caused issues had what ever caused that continued because that plug more than likely would have begun shorting out or something.
pics Pics PICS !!!!!!!!!