If you can get lucky with an Ebay turbo, go for it. I've heard too many horror stories about those when trying to tune the car for more power. They may work OK on a stock tune, but I've heard they can falter when pushed too hard on aftermarket tune. For my use case, doesn't make sense to go with a cheap turbo.

 

I don't plan on running more than 20-25psi.. id prefer to even keep it lower until I get the timing done..
lol do i need to be a guinuepig for the r56 too ? I absolutely dont mind to be the one who will test these budget parts out and i will then also leave honest ,real world feedback on them then.
sofar the cheap parts I've gotten have ALL been pretty darn good . Dollar to dollar they are a no brainer imo.
sure I had to trim the mounting bracket on the downpipe but I'd do that ananyday to save 120$ , the turbo blanket fit perfectly too and the knockoff forge dv is nice also ( though i thought it was junk but it is my wastegate) , the intercooler piping fit like a glove also..
Lol F it ! I'm going to make this a budget oriented build and see what under 2k in mods can do for it. Because had I bought brand name , 2k wouldn't go very far ! Lol that'd get a turbo and intercooler only..
I think I'm gonna pull the trigger on that ebay turbo , I just need a few more $$$ then I can purchase it. so might have to wait until months end or unless i sell some of ny parts i got listed..

 

From what I've heard, those cheap turbos have a hard time holding 20psi up to redline. Based on the sizes, they "should" be able to hold that without issue. However, if the compressor clearances are too much, boost will fall off as you start to push it. Having a tight compressor clearance is what you want for performance and efficiency.


But, maybe your experience will be different.

 

Congratulations on your court victory with your son......bonding time is in order now.......

 

I linked the wrong turbo , sorry..
this is the one I was looking to get..

https://www.ebay.com/itm/28431854228...mis&media=COPY

 

Sweeeeeet !!!!!
I was able to get some extra work the past week and was working on a r56 jcw that i ALMOST got instead of this r59..THANK GOD I didn't bother going all the way there to check it out because I'd have been pissed, that car IS A TURD !!!!! it's body other than the decals peeling up is clean, dent free ect and interior is nice. But it has 180k miles and the underbody is a one big piece of rust. YUK !!! THEN the front bumper is destroyed underneath, fender flare and bumper by it are broken and were glued together ( i zipstiched them fir him instead) headlight mounts broke, wrong hardware securing stuff on. Like how TF can someone just continue to Jerry rig stuff a d continually over look them. It also has pretty much evey error light lit on the dash too...
but im ranting.. so anyway, I ORDERED THE NEW TURBO !!! I got 53039880146 upgarde turbine , turbine wheel 44.5/50mm 6+ 6 blades billet compressor wheel Billet compressor wheel 46.4/56mm ,2.1"(55mm) Turbo Inlet..
So its not a BIG upgrade but it is an upgrade. Imo i think i could have made as much power as I would with the jcw turbo ( can't believe it can see 30+ psi , WOW ). I'm not looking to make any more boost honesty, I'm just hoping it has less lag and abit lower iat because of better efficiency.
I ALSO ordered an upgraded oil feed kit for the turbo.
I was ALSO looking at an aftermarket vacuum actuator for the turbo wastegate too.. do any of you guys have any input on this mod ? Would it help maintain boost or help spool time ir what the point if it ????

 

Curious to see how that turbo works out. Same with that waste gate actuator. I've those actuators on eBay, but I can't say I've seen anyone here using one.

 

I'm not going to buy that wastegate unless I can find some 1st hand feedback on it or more info.. I wanna make sure my turbo works asis 1st..

 

I removed the jcw cf hoodscoop and put on a more aggressive Amazon special and I also added my own grill to the scoop and opened it inlet up alot. I also cut a larger hole in the hood to better ram air into the top of my airbox when the times comes and I make the unser funnel feed into my airbox lid. I will also add an additional coldair intake on it back side for it to pull coldair from the cowl area also , like the r53s..
but here's some progress pics...
Aaaaaaand my intake FINALLY came..so i will get that on soon too.

 

You don't necessarily want more air through the scoop.

If you are tracking the car, the big problem is heat control, water, oil and intake temps. That is especially the case if you are running a bigger intercooler that effectively reduces airflow to the radiator. Part of the key to controlling temps is maximising airflow through the radiator and intercooler. To do that you need as big a pressure drop from front to back to increase airflow. The scoop funnels air in behind the radiator, and actually increases pressure behind the radiator, therefore reducing the pressure gradient. A bigger scoop increases that problem.

In the mini challenge cars they had a fair few problems with overheating in the first generation, which was exacerbated by close racing and drafting, reducing airflows. As a result in the second generation they came out with an improved scoop, that actually was completely blanked out on the front, but had venturi vents further back to draw air OUT of the engine bay, and increase pressure gradient across the radiator and IC. That worked much, much better.

Later on, the GP2 also had an undertray with venturi vents, also to maximise airflow OUT of the engine bay, and increase pressure gradient

Have a look at this
https://www.trackdevelopmentsuk.com/...e-bonnet-scoop

Here is a pic of one on my old racecar

 

I'm my case I absolutely want more air through the scoop ! I'm going to utilize that for a ram air into my intake box and also having a funnel from the rear cowl area too then I will probably run a velocity stack with an airbox to help catch the air. I will also be making a 2nd turbo shield out of thicker aluminum and cost that too and that will bolt on above the blanket. Then to finish it I will utilize the front air intake and route that directly onto the turbo because I will be pulling cold air from better places.
When adriancl tuned it too he said he set the auxiliary pump???? to run at a colder temp to keep the turbo running cooler. I can't imagine my car having any over heating issue with the larger ic and my setup I'm doing. I'm already running a catless wrapped and coated downpipe, turbo blanket and I will also be getting an aluminum radiator soon along with a lower grade thermostat and have cooler fan setting tuned in to accommodate it. THEN once summer is here on a hot day I will run it hard AF and watch oil temps and see if it would benefit from an oil cooler or if it would be too much cooling..
I put in my flexi dip stick and YES I did have to cut and adjust it to get it to read correctly ,i literally just did an oil change too so i know rite where ut should be.
I out on the intake and daaaaang ,it's much larger than stock is actually ,By atleast an inch !
I took off my catchcan for now until after I got my new turbo on and running , I just would like to eliminate as many possibilities of boost leaks. Plus i want one with the ports on opposite sides so i can install the can cleanly in a different area of the engine.
I got the oem pcv hose too that connects to the manifold to valve cover so I can get rid if my rigged up tube then so again, eliminate any possibilities of boost leaks..
I also sold the headlights and ordered the aftermarket ones I wanted. Soon comes the led unionjack sidemarkers, tailights and rear bumper lights to tie it all in then..
Aaaaaaaand i finally got all 4x brakepads so soon as its not single digit windchill ,ille get those on asap.

 

Just commenting on a couple of things in this post...

Save yourself the hassle of trying to fabricate a scoop to an aftermarket filter box, and just splurge for the AEM intake. The amount of time and money you'll spend trying to rig something up, you'll probably break even if you had just bought the AEM kit. The AEM kit utilizes the OEM cool air scoop from the side of the radiator and adds the duct from the hood scoop, so it gets plenty of air. No need for a cowl duct also.

The way this engine works, the coolant temperature is controlled to the coolant temperature sensor electronically. The thermostat is electronically controlled by the ECU to the control set point. There are no "cooler" thermostats for the car. In order to change the coolant control set point, you need to get the ECU remapped.

Anything you do to route air around the radiator will create a higher pressure in the engine bay. Routing the front intake to the turbo area will do just that.

The radiator is already aluminum on the car, so again, no benefit from aftermarket there either. The OEM radiator has more than enough capacity to to keep the cooling system in control. The engine might benefit from an external oil cooler, but there is already a coolant to oil heat exchanger built into the oil filter housing.

 

I will keep all that in mind..
So the aftermarket aluminum radiator has no extra volume to it like the r53s do ??
I might just buy the ddm under scoop since they sell it separately, I DONT WANT the aem tube because it's aluminum and prone to heat soak and I already have a decently large intake and a jcw box.
lol AND DID have the ecu remapped and custom tuned.
Youve told me a few times to do things ive already done and posted .. so yes , my car is set to run the auxiliary pumps at a colder temp. I also have a 25psi max in my tune too and few things deleted. It's not some jb4 canned tune pos or something. Adriancl custom tunes to your specific requirements.

 

I put on the brembo pads today and it went very smooth.
it took me awhile befor I dove in because I wanted to find a install guide but couldn't so I just lubed them up , took pics and stared at them until I got the ***** to just do it.luckily it was self explanatory and very strait forward.
it's also nice theres no rust or corrosion on the car like on my buddies r56 I been helping him with..
the brake pads I chose specifically because i tried all colors of the ebc pads , stop tech , oem ( all compounds) , autozone and rockauto. I tried them all throughout the years and these ceramic brembo pads are by far my favorite. They NEVER squeal or make noise when you use the provided grease. They may not have the best stooping ability or life span but for my style driving they are best suited and they're price can't be complained about.
I lubed EVERYTHING underneath again too.
I test drove it abit and they did absolutely help its stopping ability and they are silent too..
Now just waiting for the turbo and install stuff to get here and hopefully HOPEFULLY that'll get my engine boosting properly once again..

 

My comments were just to help you understand how the engine and controls work for this car. It’s not the pump that controls the temperature, it’s the thermostat. That why when you get the car tuned, the tuner can change the operating temperature.

The only thing an intake will get you a turbo car is better turbo response and flow, they won’t do much for “cold air”. By the time the turbo gets done with the intake air, it’s pretty hot. That’s why there is an intercooler. The intercooler’s job is to cool down the air going into the engine. Get a high flow intake and a big high effective intercooler, and the engine will make good power. The intercooler is the piece you want to make sure doesn’t get heat soaked, not so much the intake side. Just make sure your intake will flow the air you need.

 

I wonder how this fleabay intercooler will hold up under high boost too... it DEFINITELY flows well and I didn't seem to loose any throttle response or get any added lag. But it's fins internally DEFINITELY arnt as dense as the stock and they're different design too. It held up fine when I was making the 20psi and wastegate issue but the outside temps were in the high 40s low 50s so it's hard to say if it holds up well against heat soak.it seemed to run cooler than stock did. But it's hard to say because i didn't have the stock ic on after tuning to see how it handled the extra boost.
hopefully my turbo will be here on Tuesday or Wednesday and that'll be perfect timing because we are spose to get some nice weather I'm the high 40s low 50s so I can get out there and get it done..
I still cant believe noone even poked about my jcw turbo i put up ir the oem cf jcw bits off the car.. had it been r53 stuff it woulda been snagged up immediately. I guess the fact that there's so many more r56s out there these parts probably don't have the appeal the r53 stuff does.. awe well... it probably be better I don't sell the turbo encase this ebay one is a pos. Then if it is ille send it back and just have a new wastegate installed and setup on my jcw turbo. Because it has 0 shaft play , burns no oil , makes ALL THE BOOST ID NEED but I just didn't wanna mess with it..
a big issue I was reading about these aftermarket turbos is : theyre wastegate hole alot of times is much smaller than the oem turbo and it can cause excessive back pressure , the turbo to not spool down quick enough or sometimes cause the boost to surge..
I guess I'm gonna find out 😆 🤣 😂 😹 😆..
Wish me luck guys ! I will give honest honest 1st hand feedback on this turbo too. If it sucks i will say so.im not too good to say I made a mistake. That's how we learn. And I found unfortunately 0 feedback regarding anybody using one of these type turbos on our r56s..

 

I had a larger radiator fabricated by PWR. They do radiator/oil cooler/IC cores for F1, Nascar, WRC etc, so as good as quality as you can get. This was 2x as thick as the standard radiator, better fin quality and construction, better flow etc. It would only fit on a car with the AC condensor removed.

It made very little difference to the water temps, gave me maybe an extra lap before running into heat soak issues. The radiator core is not the problem.. As I mentioned previously, airflow through the core is extremely important, more important than the volume of the core. You need to make sure all the air at the front of the car is going through the radiator and IC cores. That means no leakage around the sides, and maximising the pressure gradient by reducing pressure in the engine bay as much as possible. Also a good IC is important, as some effectively block the radiator core air flow. Some also get hot and transmit heat to the radiator core.

Also with your brakes, if you haven't done it already make sure you do the metal piston upgrade.

Your heat shroud over the turbo is not great either, but I'll leave that discussion for another day!

 

Listen to this guy. A GP2 undertray will help with airflow through the engine bay. If you are that serious about heat management, make it a priority on your build list.

 

I DO want one actually.. my car has the side ones but not the front yet.
and regarding tuning and engine cooling, YOU CAN have things run cooler based on tuning alone. They won't stay cooler as long until like you said , until the thermostats are changed ( unless they're ecu controlled) but can't fan setting be set to turn on sooner or high-speed kick on at different times ? Also can't the auxiliary pump be set to turn on at specific temp based on ecu command ??
I also don't know how I feel about a heatshield above the turbo blanket, I know that turbo needs to cool and I plan on using the front air intake as a turbo cooler intake but I wonder if the shield would cause more harm by keeping the heat unser it..
also i wonder how much cooler the downpipe is now being catless, wrapped and coated. I feel like I did well at preventing radiant heat BUT I hope keeping all that heat in doesn't actually cause the turbo to get HOTTER because the housing and piping is no longer bleeding heat off... guess I will have to bust out my lazer thermostat that I bought JUST for these reasons ,I did alot if these type mods on my r53 and even with all its mods and 21psi , it runs cooler than a stock cooper BY FAR and safer..lol so I wanna do the same with this r59.
also ? Is there ANY point in upgrading the intake fuelpump to a 170lph or even a 255lph ? I'd like to get a new pump and filter soon as that's one of my maintenance things I do on every car I buy.
I don't expect to gain anything from upgrading to a larger intank pump , I just hope that when high boist is happening, the fuelpump doesn't need to run at such a high % and then in return runs cooler and will then hopefully keep the fuel cooler or prevent it from heating up..

 

Robbo mcs ???? Can you please tell me more about the metal piston upgrade ! I swear my calipers pistons WERE metal , I don't think I would have been comfortable prying against them with screwdrivers to compress them as I did.. but I definitely could have overlooked it or am not understanding what you mean..
could you please elaborate abit ?

 

This is what I've been saying: On the N14 engine, the thermostat IS controlled by the ECU - the ECU tells the thermostat when to open and close. The auxiliary water pump is there to circulate coolant after the engine is shut down, to help cool the turbo. That is it's only purpose in life. As for fans... The radiator fans really only work at pulling air through the radiator when the car is stationary. Once the car starts moving above a certain speed (which is pretty low), air will get forced through the radiator for cooling. This is another reason to make sure you get the GP2 under tray. At speed, it helps create that negative pressure in the engine bay to help pull air through the radiator.

 

Good advice on the cooling aspect.......

 

I had the JCW brembo 4 pots, and later had the GP2 brembo 6 pots. I rebuilt both. This is the link to the kit I used for the GP2

https://racingbrake.com/bb-61bsp/

That website doesn't seem to have the kit for the 4 pots anymore, just the seals. I did buy it from them, I'm sure they would have it if you contacted them. From emory the 4 pots are the same as the Nissan 370Z, so possibly the same as this, but you would need to confirm that with them, it is over 10 years since I rebuilt the 4 pots! Other manufacturers do similar stuff

https://racingbrake.com/bi-41bsp/

 

Turbo came but I forgot completely about the donut gasket that connects the turbo to the exhaust housing so I ordered one on speed delivery. The exhaust manifold gasket should be here today or tomorrow too.
but I'd like to atleast get the old stuff off and new put together and ready to install soon as the gaskets are here. I ordered the donut gasket and I have to go to autozone and pick it up..
Im actually pretty impressed with the turbo based off just what i see. It looks like its even been test judging by the paint marking on blades. The wastegate issue too IS NOT AN ISSUE ! The wastegate on this turbo DEFINITELY isn't smaller, if anything it's decently larger.
aaaaaaaand now I see the bit of wiggle in even a brandnew wastegate. Lol im almost positive my jcw turbo wastegate is fine and it's only problem was when the nut backed off the rod I set the wastegate too tight. I see they are spose to hang open and have vacuum pull them shut..
if I'm correct, at 15lb of vacuum it SHOULD fully close the wastegate correct? I'd love to know how to test N get the wastegate set because this turbo looks like the wastegate is adjusted tight like i had mine and caused too much boost.. do I bother adjusting this new wastegate or do I just leave it and try it as is 1st ??
aaaaaand new headlights are spose to be delivered today too !
lol I sold the oem's to get the cheaper aftermarket headlights I liked better AND them the extra $$$ covered the brake pads I put in..lol. Sweeeeet.
so if you wanna buy the oem jcw carbonfiber hood scoop with removable screen OR the oem jcw carbonfiber rear diffuser PLEASE do because theres something else I want..

 

That turbo "Looks" nice. I'm anxious to see how it performs... I might be tempted to at least get a cheap vacuum pump and see what vacuum pressure it takes to close the waste gate.