Well, BAR, not psi, but you can do the conversion. From my conversations with Lou, the S sensors max out at 1.5 BAR, which is ~22 psi. And the JCW sensors max out at 1.75 BAR, which is ~25 psi.

 

That would make sense, when my scanguage would act up i would see 21.5 psi.

 

it is tuned..so technically it doesn't matter what sensor I have because either can be set to see a specified psi.
and my gauge is digital BUT it is run off a map sensor spacer so it reads real boost readings not ecu estimates..
soon as its not bitter cold I will put my mechanical equis gauge in and see where it's at..
We ALSO have boost cut tuned out so it very well could be boosting more than I want if my wastegate on my new turbo isn't set rite..
I now see I definitely didn't need a new turbo though lol. O well... itle give someone a chance at a jcw turbo for cheap then..

 

That not really how sensors work... Pressure sensors are fed with a voltage, and return a voltage signal based on the amount of pressure being sensed. Sensors are calibrated for a specific pressure range. (maybe 0-25psig) Go outside that calibrated range, and either the signal will drop out, or the signal will peg at max voltage. You can't "tune" the sensor to read higher than its calibrated for. What you can do is trick the ECU into controlling at a higher boost outside the range of the sensor.

Is this the gauge that is showing boost spikes of ~30psi?

That sounds like a recipe for disaster... Would also explain the ~30psi reading on the gauge. The ECU has the capability to control the waste gate, thus keeping boost in check. Why isn't Adrian doing that in his tune?

 

so the ecu can't be tuned to tell the diverter valve to dump boost past a specific psi ???
and that was accomplished via tuning , lol I swear man your not reading what I'm saying... i appreciate the help but numerous times youve told me to do stuff ive done ...
adriancl DOES have my boost set to 25psi , that's why I was wondering what was up with my high readings..
lol so the equis gauge is **** too.. now I'm just going to yank my gauge out my r53 because I KNOW FOR SURE that one is 100% accurate.
soooo if this replacement sensor doesn't work with the gauge or us inaccurate again , ille just rob out the r53 one for time being.
but I hooked up the pos equis gauge and I believe my car IS NOT boosting over 25-30psi like the other gauge read , it climbed at a rate that looked more normal to me and corresponded with the power feel too BUT the needle started to spaz out over 10psi and it wiggled around so it made accurate reading impossible BUT it didn't go over or immediately spike to 30+psi like my other gauge..
what had thrown me off on know the cars boost was 1st it didn't have a correctly working wastegate AND my gauge was inaccurate so I was fighting a lost cause trying to determine actual peak psi.
but now with the new turbo ( I also now know the jcw turbo was fine too ) and figured out my gauge was bogus , i will be able to now find my EXACT psi..
I just need to make sure this new turbo I got isn't making too much boost because of an improper set wastegate, though I feel like it's all good but I need to know for sure..

 

Sweeeeet , aem scoop came !! I ALSO ordered a velocity stack and some heat shielding and I plan on making my OWN custom intake setup so if your interested, check back soon because I'm gonna start the intake soon as everything is here by next weekend.
I'm also ditching my intercooler and going with abit more expensive but again ebay brand. The one I'm getting now , it's end tanks ate a different design, its core is a more dense core also and though it too is an aluminum intercooler, it weighs almost 2x of my current ebay ic SO that DEFINITELY tell-tale of it having a much more dense core..
My car has 0 boosting issue so i feel i could sacrifice abit of boost running this type intercooler and gain the extra cooling advantages..
my current ic is a FORGE clone and im now going with an airtec clone... funny thing though guys , I guarantee ALL the clones and o.g namebrand intercoolers , id be willing to bet they ALL come from the same factory in China or Malaysia , why pay the 200% markup for a silly name and sticker put on or spray painted logo on the intercooler ??? Lol I could spray airtec on it as they sell stencils and it wouldn't cost me 200$ to do it.
the 1st pic is the ic i have now ( seems to flow well , cool OOOOOOK and fitment was perfect)
2nd pic is intercooler I bought to replace it with and try.
( should loose a tad more boost , should cool much better and fitment might suck as it has NO tabs or mounting provisions , it needs them welded on)
I'm also looking into an all aluminum intake manifold too. It could give me ability to direct inject methenol into the individual ports. Plus it looks like it would FLOW.

 

Also , lol the headlights DEFINITELY are bright enough though I did order upgraded bulbs and will see if they're still as bright because I want a more white light and less yellow just because im.slightly colorblind so it really helps me be able to differentiate stuff in my Is peripherial vision...
but here's how they shine even with the cheapo bulbs they came with..
So if you LIKE them. I got a brand new ,in box , extra set I'm selling for 150$ + shipping only.. jlmk. Lol I can't install 4 headlights..unlesssssssssssss I get another r56 or r59..
Also there were some beautiful sundogs out but i could only get one in a pic at a time but they literally were in a huge circle like this through the sjy ,around the sun kinda.

 

Did you get that aluminum.....intake if so how are you going to make the throttle body function......this one look like it's on the bottom...

 

I’m reading what you’re typing out, but it doesn’t match up with what is going on….and now you’re saying the diverter valve is dumping boost… it’s not the diverter valve that controls the boost, it’s the waste gate that controls the boost. The diverter valve opens to relieve boost when the throttle pedal is released. If you’re hand on the throttle, the waste gate will open to slow down the turbo and limit max boost. Then when you lift the throttle pedal to shift or slow down, the diverter valve will open to release the boost pressure.

I’m sure your car is being tuned correctly. However, your understanding of how all these components work together doesn’t seem quite right based on how you’re communicating about them. That’s all I’m trying to get straight for you.

 

I really do appreciate the education... ive only ever had 1x other turbo car and not very long, so this definitely is a learning experience...
I will do a little more testing once I put in my verified good gauge because I know it's not my tune causing this high boost situation because I have been in constant contact with Adrian discussing stuff...
we are going to try a less aggressive tune with a lower max boost and see if my car will run lower boost.. IF that doesnt work then i BELIEVE my ONLY option left would be to adjust the wastegate ????
this is where I'm getting lost though with this overboosting issue..
my jcw turbo was peaking 25psi but then dropping because the wastegate nut was missing, once I put a new nut on and THOUGHT i adjusted the wastegate rite THEN my car began this highboost situation. That's why I ordered this new k04 f21 turbo because id have assumed it's wastegate was set rite as it was marked and has thread lock on it too. Asaaasnd the turbo WAS tested too , each of their turbos are individually tested and comes with a data sheet. Aaaaaand I thought too the data sheets was a bogus graph that EVERY turbo came with but I actually compared the graphs and even the same exact turbos had slightly different graphs because of temps ect that day and you could actually tell each graph was true to the turbo..
so I guess my only way to know if it is boosting too high is to yank out my gauge out my other mini and use it for testing...awe well.. that car hasnt sold yet anyways and the people interested are dragging their feet ,probably using me as free storage..lol but it WONT be for sale come spring because I'm gonna enjoy it this season FINALLY since I FINALLY finished that build rite befor winter arrived... heres my r53 ripping guys ! I hooooooope to get this r59 atleast if not FASTER.

 

I almost finished making my custom intake.. I lol wrecked the stock lid trying to piece that into this buuuuuut I did a dummy and didn't look fully and after I cut it , then u realized the mafs needs an enclosed box ti filter or it would just pull the air from above the filter.. lol derderder , o well..
i took iff my evay ic because i ordered a much more dense style core , lol i have no max boost issues so i can afford to loose abit of flow for better cooling. The core in the new ic is over 2x as dense.
so my velocity stack hasn't gotten here yet so I just threw on a autozone filter in the meantime..
and in ALL HONESTY, I DONT LIKE the way the intake sounds ! It has too loud/high pitched whistling noise at low speed partial throttle and lololol when I shift at high boost the stock dv makes the most stupid noise and again , it's like a high pitched squeal/squeak ( like Micky mouse being pinched )
Im gonna get this high boost figured out.. because honestly, i believe it is making too much because theres just no way this car should be this powerful with such few things done to it. I just cant imagine it being the case.. I'd love if it WAS only making 25psi but I have a feeling I'm st like 35psi lolol , seriously ! It fricken pulls , pulls HARD in 6th gear DOING 60MPH !!!! no WAYYY is that normal, just no way...

 

 

Soooooooo the 3rd NEW boost gauge lol I swear it might read low now , or if this is where the cars at AWESOME !!! BUT this new gaufe vacuum doesn't peg at below -30hg amd boost doesn't spike + 30psi ... I see max -13hg vacuum and I saw a MAX of 20.5psi in 3rd gear at or near redline when full throttle..
DO THOSE numbers sound correct ??? I believe that's where the car SHOULD be at vacuum readings and adriancl verified I DO have a 20psi tune too..
Lol well , my r53 still hasn't sold and even though we'd agreed on a price the kid still tried getting me down so I'm probably just going to keep thst monster too.. no use in loosing my *** THAT bad.. lol if 11k wasn't good enough and they wanna negotiate, lollol I out it back to 15k , which is still less thsn half the cost of all the performance/aftermarket stuff that car has on it..
but anyways im ranting... but i will rob that boost gauge out of the r53 , atleast I know for sure that one's accurate.
gowd !!! I just wanna know WHERE MY EXACT BOOST LEVELS ARE ,geeeeeeez.. lol. But hey !?! If thats my BIGGEST problem I have , ille gladly take that.
I also ordered A BUNCH of goodies for the car , I mean A BUNCH.. like jcw rear diffuser, Unionjack led lights and bunch other stuff.. my wife gave me a limit for my Bday to order some things I been eye balling and then I use a receipt uploading app and lololol since Xmas I've gotten 300$ worth of ebay gifts card to use from it and I finally spent them.. so yeaaaaaaaa , I should have some fun come spring putting stuff on..
I also ordered timing kit and tool and AS SOON as it gets here i will be dropping the car off eith another local mini lover and he will be doing the timing job for me. And I DO trust him completely, he's done great work on buddies cars AND he did my clutch in Troll ( grey r53 ) because I just did it in the other r53 and didn't feel like doing another one so soon.
I also will get the clutch n flywheel replaced too then and hoping to do that next month..
but HEY !?! DO they make a 2x piece lightweight flywheel for this r59 ??? I'd really REALLY like to use the same brand and stage clutch as I did in my r53's in this r59. They legit are By FAR , BY FRICKEN FAR the best feeling / grabbing clutch ive felt IN ANY mini , AAAAAANY mini I've driven.. so I absolutely would use it again.. the brand was FX , it's mainly sold on ebay but it's a brand that's uses extensively in the import community when they build up their ricerockets..

 

Sounds like that boost gauge is reading correctly. Those "rubber" hoses that the cheap gauges come with are crappy. They can collapse under vacuum. But, from your video, I would assume the gauge to be reading correctly. You should see ~18 inches at idle. The 30 in of vacuum max on overrun is right. You'll see max vacuum after revving and closing the throttle. ~20 psi of boost sounds good for now, too, until you can get the tune dialed in. Also, if you can hold ~20psi with that big turbo, the tune sounds like its working good. What rpm are you reaching max boost?

 

Sweeeeet. Got a accurate boost gauge in finally and the car is perfect..
I also got my new intercooler so you can see how much more dense it's core is. I need to have 2x brackets Im making welded on ,then I can install it.
I put on the 4.5in velocity stack along with a heatshield under it. The filter literally sits PERFECTLY under the aem scoop. I bought some flat thin aluminum im going to finish making a heatshield/water diverter out of.
I aaaaaaaaaaaalso got the knock off forge bov and lol derderder the forge one i have wasnt working rite BECAUSE I MIXED up 2x vacuum lines derderder.
so now this baby builds boost EXACTLY like it should , holds it and immediately releases it with a hella loud whoosh !
WAIT until i upload a vid if how this car sounds AND pulls. I just took my bud out and he has a 2010 s that has decent mods and tuned by Adrian also. Aaaaand his car feels SLOW compared to my jcw.. only difference really is my jcw lower end , jcw catback and I have a k04 f21 and his is just a new stock k03. But there not even comparable honestly.. I'm soooooo glad I got the jcw n14 because there's much much more of a difference between an n14 s v jcw and an r53 prince S v even the jcw 220 package..
AhhhhOoooo yea. I also finished wiring up my headlights and put in brighter better led bulbs. I also sucked out the brake reservoir a few times until it was clear fluid once again ( lazy brake flush for now ) and I got the timing tool and timing stuff should be here tomorrow and then I will be dropping the car off with a buddy and he will be helping me out by doing the job for me for a price I absolutely can't complain about..
So Check bacm soon , i have lots and lots of other mods coming for this car.

 

Car was dropped off and having timing done along with new vanos gear ect..
lol what a pita thx to amazon delaying the 1st set , then sending a set for n/a engine and finally got it rite the 3rd time..only after me driving the parts back n forth for like 200miles UGH. Awe well , the car is in great hands atleast.
I had the tabs welded on the ic too buuuuuut i think i had them welded on too high up.. **** it , ille rig it up still if I have to make a bracket hold a bracket ? So be it.
just frustrating with all this running around and accomplished nothing other than wasted gas and time..
Also a piece of the chain guide broke off and is in my damn oil pan so looks like I will be having to drop the pan soon as the cars back home. Again , what ever. Atleast I can take out the p.o.s k&n oil filter and put in oem. I think I'm gonna change from 0w30 to either 0w40 or 5w40 just because my r53 , once I switched to the rotella 5w40 truck oil, the engine has never sounded better. No valvetrain noise what so ever even after sitting for a week at a time. Then when i do the oilpan i will also change out the gear fluid too and 2x check the brake/clutch fluid and see if it's still clear or if I worked any dirty old fluid out from anywhere. I'm gonna need a serpentine belt too very soon..
soooooooo if all goes well the car should come back home Tuesday..
Wish me luck guys !!

 

Where's the rest of the bolts for the kit........only one I see is the tensioner.....

 

What he said.

You want to make sure you use all new bolts for the crank and both cams. They are use once only.

 

Also new crank shaft bolt---Bolts for the chain guides

 

HELP !! TIMING WAS DONE , cars wayyy down on power and WONT go psst half throttle snd is throwing codes only 2x I can read are !.
did he **** up my timing ???
car was PERFECT BEFOR !!

 

First, you need to invest in a Mini scan tool.

Second, did the guy use new cam bolts and crank bolts? Those are one time use bolts. Once they get torqued, if they have to come off, then NEED to be replaced. You never replied on that point.

Third, who is this guy? Has he EVER done a timing job on a N14 or N18 engine? There are some very important steps that NEED to be followed, or it will end in a botched timing job. Things like... you need to pin the crank in the correct spot, the cams need to be in the correct orientation, don't spin the crank counter-clockwise, the tension tool needs to be used instead of the tensioner... Miss any of these items, and a second timing job is in your future.

 

I have inpa , will that be good enough?

 

If you know how to use it, it will pull the codes.

 

It's me. I've not done a timing job on an N14, but I've done a few dozen timing jobs across plenty of foreign makes/models. I'm familiar with the general requirements of the job, and found reputable resources for the specifics of this job. (Specifically FCPEuro/Pelican parts)

Prior to disassembly, the crank was pinned, and cam text was verified to be in the 'up' position on both intake and exhaust. At this position, the locking tool on the exhaust cam slipped right on, and the intake cam needed to be drawn down ~2 degrees in order to fasten to the exhaust half.

Timing hardware was removed, and once the correct timing kit was delivered, everything was set in place. Cassette dropped in. Crank hub slid through crank sprocket, and both gears were replaced with those provided in the kit, and new bolts were used, finger tight at this point. Crank bolt was installed finger tight. The kit did not come with a replacement bolt. We decided to proceed, and Adam would address it in the future. Before committing to this with a *180 TTY bolt, I checked that no necking/elongation was evident, and even at *180 past 50NM, its very close to the 'recommended' torque values of 130ftlb for a class 12.9 lubricated M14 bolt.

Guide pins were installed, upper timing chain guide was installed. At this point the manual tensioner tool was installed. I don't have a torque wrench that goes down to 0.4Nm, and did have to estimate the 3.5 inch pounds required. Exhaust cam gear was torqued to 20Nm +90* and the intake to 20Nm + 180*

The crank bolt was retorqued a few degrees shy of 180* and then the timing chain tension tool was removed and the replacement tensioner was installed. I removed the cam lock tools as well as the crank lock pin. I spun the engine over 720* clockwise, and the crank pin slid in exactly where expected. Cam text was vertical and the lock tools slid right on.

I reassembled everything and in my desire to get the car back to Adam I committed the major sin of not taking it for a test drive. I idled it in the garage, and pulled it into the driveway for him to come pick up. I made the mistake of expecting positive results based on the physical checking of timing, the clean start, and my experience/comfort performing these procedures in the past. I shouldn't have allowed Adam to take the car without an actual test drive.

I'm going to head over to Adams tonight to help him work though it. I'm very much struggling to believe it's related to physical timing. I'll pull the valve cover again and give it a triple check with the lock pin and cam lock tools.

 

Sounds like you did everything correct...

I just went over to https://bmwfault.codes/ to check the P0100 and P0340 codes... the 0100 looks to be related to the MAF sensor, and 0340 is a missing cam sensor signal. Hopefully its just some connectors that got missed, or not seated correctly...