JCW New here with questions :-)
#1
02-10-2017, 08:51 AM
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#3
02-10-2017, 04:47 PM
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Check this thread:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-b48-mini.html
Many of us are having fun with NM or Dinan or JB modules, all of which are easy plug 'n play and can be removed in a matter of minutes (JB is a bit more complicated to R&R than NM or Dinan)
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-b48-mini.html
Many of us are having fun with NM or Dinan or JB modules, all of which are easy plug 'n play and can be removed in a matter of minutes (JB is a bit more complicated to R&R than NM or Dinan)
#4
02-10-2017, 05:06 PM
OVERDRIVE
http://www.bytetronik.com/ is supposedly going to be releasing a tune soon. Manic was supposed to have had one by now, don't know whats up with them. Did see a company last year promoting one but it was pretty expensive, don't recall name.
Dinan is fine for me, don't see myself going with a full tune, but you never know.
Dinan is fine for me, don't see myself going with a full tune, but you never know.
#6
02-13-2017, 03:41 AM
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Ok, if you are all happy with a Box 
Here it´s a little bit different. Just 30% uses a Box, the rest ECU tune!
Many of the 30% BOx useres change to a ECU tune after the warranty.
ECU tune for F Models is here up to 350 HP for Racecars and for Street
330 hp and up to 510 Nm for Stick. Automatic is a little bit less 450 Nm.
Box vs. ECU! You cant really compare it!
Cheers
Here it´s a little bit different. Just 30% uses a Box, the rest ECU tune!
Many of the 30% BOx useres change to a ECU tune after the warranty.
ECU tune for F Models is here up to 350 HP for Racecars and for Street
330 hp and up to 510 Nm for Stick. Automatic is a little bit less 450 Nm.
Box vs. ECU! You cant really compare it!
Cheers
#7
02-13-2017, 07:26 AM
OVERDRIVE
Ok, if you are all happy with a Box
Here it´s a little bit different. Just 30% uses a Box, the rest ECU tune!
Many of the 30% BOx useres change to a ECU tune after the warranty.
ECU tune for F Models is here up to 350 HP for Racecars and for Street
330 hp and up to 510 Nm for Stick. Automatic is a little bit less 450 Nm.
Box vs. ECU! You cant really compare it!
Cheers
Here it´s a little bit different. Just 30% uses a Box, the rest ECU tune!
Many of the 30% BOx useres change to a ECU tune after the warranty.
ECU tune for F Models is here up to 350 HP for Racecars and for Street
330 hp and up to 510 Nm for Stick. Automatic is a little bit less 450 Nm.
Box vs. ECU! You cant really compare it!
Cheers
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#8
02-13-2017, 09:39 AM
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So you are talking about R or F?
#9
02-16-2017, 11:25 AM
ah... non...
You state;
"...ECU tune for F Models is here up to 350 HP for Racecars and for Street
330 hp and up to 510 Nm for Stick. Automatic is a little bit less 450 Nm..."
I can agree that a Tune is superior to a chip. But, I do not agree with the horsepower outputs you are throwing out.
As well, you do not bring up the plus and minus factors each.
In the minus, the ECU TUNE, cost more for marginally more horsepower.
Cannot be "removed" and kept from the service bay (it is a known fact, that any time you increase horsepower over and above the factory setting you are opening yourself up for all kinds of refusal of warranty whether related, or not).
If push comes to shove, the ECU flash leaves behind undeniable proof, it is black and white. The chip is a lot harder to prove, since it is "not there", regardless of the fact.
Inconvenience, in most cases you are required to mail out your ECU (pita to remove and replace).
If the dealer reflashes the ECU in any way, you are left with a NON Tuned ECU and hassles associated with getting it repaired / reflashed.
Just putting the cards on the table.
Cheers
"...ECU tune for F Models is here up to 350 HP for Racecars and for Street
330 hp and up to 510 Nm for Stick. Automatic is a little bit less 450 Nm..."
I can agree that a Tune is superior to a chip. But, I do not agree with the horsepower outputs you are throwing out.
As well, you do not bring up the plus and minus factors each.
In the minus, the ECU TUNE, cost more for marginally more horsepower.
Cannot be "removed" and kept from the service bay (it is a known fact, that any time you increase horsepower over and above the factory setting you are opening yourself up for all kinds of refusal of warranty whether related, or not).
If push comes to shove, the ECU flash leaves behind undeniable proof, it is black and white. The chip is a lot harder to prove, since it is "not there", regardless of the fact.
Inconvenience, in most cases you are required to mail out your ECU (pita to remove and replace).
If the dealer reflashes the ECU in any way, you are left with a NON Tuned ECU and hassles associated with getting it repaired / reflashed.
Just putting the cards on the table.
Cheers
#10
02-16-2017, 04:34 PM
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You state;
"...ECU tune for F Models is here up to 350 HP for Racecars and for Street
330 hp and up to 510 Nm for Stick. Automatic is a little bit less 450 Nm..."
I can agree that a Tune is superior to a chip. But, I do not agree with the horsepower outputs you are throwing out.
As well, you do not bring up the plus and minus factors each.
In the minus, the ECU TUNE, cost more for marginally more horsepower.
Cannot be "removed" and kept from the service bay (it is a known fact, that any time you increase horsepower over and above the factory setting you are opening yourself up for all kinds of refusal of warranty whether related, or not).
If push comes to shove, the ECU flash leaves behind undeniable proof, it is black and white. The chip is a lot harder to prove, since it is "not there", regardless of the fact.
Inconvenience, in most cases you are required to mail out your ECU (pita to remove and replace).
If the dealer reflashes the ECU in any way, you are left with a NON Tuned ECU and hassles associated with getting it repaired / reflashed.
Just putting the cards on the table.
Cheers
"...ECU tune for F Models is here up to 350 HP for Racecars and for Street
330 hp and up to 510 Nm for Stick. Automatic is a little bit less 450 Nm..."
I can agree that a Tune is superior to a chip. But, I do not agree with the horsepower outputs you are throwing out.
As well, you do not bring up the plus and minus factors each.
In the minus, the ECU TUNE, cost more for marginally more horsepower.
Cannot be "removed" and kept from the service bay (it is a known fact, that any time you increase horsepower over and above the factory setting you are opening yourself up for all kinds of refusal of warranty whether related, or not).
If push comes to shove, the ECU flash leaves behind undeniable proof, it is black and white. The chip is a lot harder to prove, since it is "not there", regardless of the fact.
Inconvenience, in most cases you are required to mail out your ECU (pita to remove and replace).
If the dealer reflashes the ECU in any way, you are left with a NON Tuned ECU and hassles associated with getting it repaired / reflashed.
Just putting the cards on the table.
Cheers
My view is that if one takes tuning beyond the simple addition of a few extra PSI of boost (meaning 3-6 PSI extra), then, in addition to extensive re-mapping, one needs to consider air/oil/coolant cooling, injector capacity, wastegate management, exhaust/DP, and all the other aspects of integrated power management.
Once out of warranty, tweak away. Whilst in warranty, I prefer a more conservative approach.
#11
02-17-2017, 01:56 AM
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You state;
"...ECU tune for F Models is here up to 350 HP for Racecars and for Street
330 hp and up to 510 Nm for Stick. Automatic is a little bit less 450 Nm..."
I can agree that a Tune is superior to a chip. But, I do not agree with the horsepower outputs you are throwing out.
As well, you do not bring up the plus and minus factors each.
In the minus, the ECU TUNE, cost more for marginally more horsepower.
Cannot be "removed" and kept from the service bay (it is a known fact, that any time you increase horsepower over and above the factory setting you are opening yourself up for all kinds of refusal of warranty whether related, or not).
If push comes to shove, the ECU flash leaves behind undeniable proof, it is black and white. The chip is a lot harder to prove, since it is "not there", regardless of the fact.
Inconvenience, in most cases you are required to mail out your ECU (pita to remove and replace).
If the dealer reflashes the ECU in any way, you are left with a NON Tuned ECU and hassles associated with getting it repaired / reflashed.
Just putting the cards on the table.
Cheers
"...ECU tune for F Models is here up to 350 HP for Racecars and for Street
330 hp and up to 510 Nm for Stick. Automatic is a little bit less 450 Nm..."
I can agree that a Tune is superior to a chip. But, I do not agree with the horsepower outputs you are throwing out.
As well, you do not bring up the plus and minus factors each.
In the minus, the ECU TUNE, cost more for marginally more horsepower.
Cannot be "removed" and kept from the service bay (it is a known fact, that any time you increase horsepower over and above the factory setting you are opening yourself up for all kinds of refusal of warranty whether related, or not).
If push comes to shove, the ECU flash leaves behind undeniable proof, it is black and white. The chip is a lot harder to prove, since it is "not there", regardless of the fact.
Inconvenience, in most cases you are required to mail out your ECU (pita to remove and replace).
If the dealer reflashes the ECU in any way, you are left with a NON Tuned ECU and hassles associated with getting it repaired / reflashed.
Just putting the cards on the table.
Cheers
I´m not saying BOX is junk.
My Company is also dealer for NM-Engeneering here in germany!
Fakt is, you are right with the most of the points. But if you want to put the cards on the table, here my cards.
Most of the F Modells in north america runs with automatic transmission!?
If so, what do you think what kind of data the automatic transmission gets from the DME with a box?
"Hello DME this is AT. What torque is at the moment?" Box to DME. "Hello DME this is your engine. My torgue is 250 Nm" (in real 300 Nm). DME to AT.
"AT this is DME. Engine said 250 Nm tourge!" AT to AT oil pressure unit. "hey valves this is oil pressure unit, it´s just 250 Nm we do not need more pressure for the clutch"
How your Aisin AT works you can read this one: Klick here
:-)
Next fakt:
F56 JCW original 231 HP 320 Nm (236 ft lbs?)
Box with 100+ Octane 275 HP 380 Nm (280 ft lbs) 400 USD
DME with 98+ Octane 320 HP 480 Nm (355 tf lbs) 1100 USD
Torque is the answer!:-)
If you scared to loose your warranty ----> Box and fun
If you dont care or your MINI is out of the warranty ----> DME and max fun!
For better understanding. I just want to discuss this with you and do not want to sell DME Tuning!
#12
02-17-2017, 01:00 PM
By the time mine is out of warranty I'm hoping Manic will have a tune available for the F56. I already have all the upgrades required for a stage 2 tune if it's anything like the one for the R56. I look forward to doing this when it's time.
Until then, (9/19 or another 53K miles) I'll stick with my NM w/JCW tune.
Until then, (9/19 or another 53K miles) I'll stick with my NM w/JCW tune.
#14
02-19-2017, 06:56 AM
3rd Gear
Didn't' see these dynos on DME's website, confused.
F56 JCW original 231 HP 320 Nm (236 ft lbs?)
Box with 100+ Octane 275 HP 380 Nm (280 ft lbs) 400 USD
DME with 98+ Octane 320 HP 480 Nm (355 tf lbs) 1100 USD
On their website, they list only stage 1 at 255hp and 266ftlbs torque for the JCW.
With my NM, my dyno to the wheels is 261.46 hp and 281.40ftlbs torque. I'd love a software tune, loved mine from RMW on my 2010 R56. For me to get a tune, the selling point would be like RMWs, use of my own hand held programmer. That way if the dealership reflashed my car, which they did one time on my R56, I can simply reinstall the tune in about 10 seconds.
F56 JCW original 231 HP 320 Nm (236 ft lbs?)
Box with 100+ Octane 275 HP 380 Nm (280 ft lbs) 400 USD
DME with 98+ Octane 320 HP 480 Nm (355 tf lbs) 1100 USD
On their website, they list only stage 1 at 255hp and 266ftlbs torque for the JCW.
With my NM, my dyno to the wheels is 261.46 hp and 281.40ftlbs torque. I'd love a software tune, loved mine from RMW on my 2010 R56. For me to get a tune, the selling point would be like RMWs, use of my own hand held programmer. That way if the dealership reflashed my car, which they did one time on my R56, I can simply reinstall the tune in about 10 seconds.
#16
02-19-2017, 09:00 AM
3rd Gear
#17
02-19-2017, 10:47 AM
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[QUOTE=Torre Sauter;4280880]:-)
I´m not saying BOX is junk.
what do you think what kind of data the automatic transmission gets from the DME with a box?
"Hello DME this is AT. What torque is at the moment?" Box to DME. "Hello DME this is your engine. My torgue is 250 Nm" (in real 300 Nm). DME to AT.
"AT this is DME. Engine said 250 Nm tourge!" AT to AT oil pressure unit. "hey valves this is oil pressure unit, it´s just 250 Nm we do not need more pressure for the clutch"
I've always wondered how plug in boxes as well as full DME tunes handle these issues. My comfort with the NM or Dinan plug in box is it only tricks the engine on a single parameter -- boost. And the tweak is somewhat minor; only a few lbs of psi, so the fueling and shift algorithms and other engine function data inputs aren't driven too crazy or pushed beyond any safe zones. As robust as these new B46/48 engines are, especially in the JCW configuration, there are, truly, a lot of moving parts to the engine management symphony. When driving hard, I want the entire orchestra playing in tune.
I´m not saying BOX is junk.
what do you think what kind of data the automatic transmission gets from the DME with a box?
"Hello DME this is AT. What torque is at the moment?" Box to DME. "Hello DME this is your engine. My torgue is 250 Nm" (in real 300 Nm). DME to AT.
"AT this is DME. Engine said 250 Nm tourge!" AT to AT oil pressure unit. "hey valves this is oil pressure unit, it´s just 250 Nm we do not need more pressure for the clutch"
I've always wondered how plug in boxes as well as full DME tunes handle these issues. My comfort with the NM or Dinan plug in box is it only tricks the engine on a single parameter -- boost. And the tweak is somewhat minor; only a few lbs of psi, so the fueling and shift algorithms and other engine function data inputs aren't driven too crazy or pushed beyond any safe zones. As robust as these new B46/48 engines are, especially in the JCW configuration, there are, truly, a lot of moving parts to the engine management symphony. When driving hard, I want the entire orchestra playing in tune.