Originally Posted by Boosted_Mini

Based on my calculations you are making about ~270WHP with all the work you have put into the car. No offense, I think someone could pull similar numbers with a bolt on K04 hybrid/WM/Tune without a problem. As JCWs can make up to 250WHP/310WTQ from my experience.

Lots of money, but i am still looking for someone to provide worthy results.

Originally Posted by oldbrokenwind

Let me describe my GT28RS installation experience for you - a 2007 hatchback ---
*First of all the turbo to manifold bolt pattern doesn’t match. You need an adapter.
*This adapter causes the top oil line (maybe water, I forget) to be too short.
*Oil return line orientation is critical, to prevent contact with the turbo body, melting, and leaking.
*GT28RS is designed for a 3” exhaust - another adapter, unless included in a kit.
*Air inlet is also 3” dia - about twice the OEM size.
*Air outlet is facing the rear, not the side --- another hose coupling.
*Heat shields won’t fit any more, without serious bending / cutting. I removed all mine.
*GT28RS BOV is external so the ECU wants to be connected to either the OEM BOV (removed from the turbo body) or a 12 ohm resistor (which worked for me). I didn’t want to destroy the usefulness of an OEM turbo. Then, where to tie back the OEM BOV connector / harness, with its new 12 ohm resistor?
*You need to decide on BOV placement - before or after WMI jet. And, will the BOV allow WM into the turbo air inlet, if mounted after the WM jet? Assuming you choose to use a closed BOV system, which is most recommended!
*GT28RS Wastegate is activated with a POSITIVE pressure. Mine was preset to 12psi. OEM uses a vacuum. You’ll need a boost controller, one that’s compatible with the WMI fail-safe, then find a place to mount and connect it. Don’t forget to terminate the unused vacuum line.
*If you want to close the hood, material needs to be removed from the hood structure - to allow for a larger turbo body and possibly a relocated O2 sensor, depending on the chosen downpipe. Remove enough to allow for engine torque at high accel. My lower engine mount bushing inserts didn’t help - there’s still a lot of engine movement / lifting in front.
*Then there’s a new dyno tune required to make this new turbo work properly. If you have a light flywheel, there’s a loss of inertia at low rpm’s (low boost) that destroys launch. A new launch speed of 5500rpm in the AP helped for me, but I’m still a novice driver. Typical launch from Alta’s AP is 3500.
*Turbo-Kits was my supplier and MOST of the parts were included - nothing for air inlet, and one elbow / coupling short for air outlet. Downpipe was catless and designed for the GT28RS, but didn’t bolt to the engine as designed. Had to do some exhaust pipe rework to fit the Alta 3” system.
*Most of the grief was finding hose couplings for routing air in and out of the turbo. Tee fittings for the BOV and OCC were especially tough to find. Still want to replace vinyl tees with metal - cleaner looking. That’s what “work-in-progress” is all about!

Ray, you probably already know most of this. I’m just hoping to discourage others from going this route unless they’re ready for a serious time and money investment.

BTW, I’m hoping you keep us informed on progress, results, etc. Looking good so far.