JCW Factory Jcw 2009 Build And Tuning Guide / Input / Explained
part 2.95
2.95 Bonnet scoop vent mod.
If you take a look at the stock bonnet scoop vents. You may have noticed that the holes are blocked. Not all of them, but most of them are. So I thought. Cant be good for the engine heat.
not my pics!
The turbo being directly underneath it produces as much heat as the sun. so any additional air to the engine bay area will provide welcome relief and a breath of fresh air to the scorching surfaces found within. Although some may thing this is minor mod. Its still significant whereas its adding that much more cooling to an area in need of it. should provide a slightly better tolerance to heat when driving a bit spirited.
i decided to bore them all out with the help of my dremel mate. And after about an hour or two. It was done. Not that hard, the hard edges around the holes help, when carving out the holes.


10/10
free mod which add a bit more cooling to the engine.
Hmmm I like what some of the mini challenge teams are running....
If you take a look at the stock bonnet scoop vents. You may have noticed that the holes are blocked. Not all of them, but most of them are. So I thought. Cant be good for the engine heat.

not my pics!The turbo being directly underneath it produces as much heat as the sun. so any additional air to the engine bay area will provide welcome relief and a breath of fresh air to the scorching surfaces found within. Although some may thing this is minor mod. Its still significant whereas its adding that much more cooling to an area in need of it. should provide a slightly better tolerance to heat when driving a bit spirited.
i decided to bore them all out with the help of my dremel mate. And after about an hour or two. It was done. Not that hard, the hard edges around the holes help, when carving out the holes.


10/10
free mod which add a bit more cooling to the engine.Hmmm I like what some of the mini challenge teams are running....
part 3.1
PART 3.1
I done these next bit of mods in quick sucession. As they all complement each other so well, in regards to the installation.


Todo the front antiroll bars. You need to lower the subframe. To lower that subframe. You need to remove the zorst. So hey, why not add a miltek downpipe.
You need to partially remove the wishbone arms. Why not add powerflex wishbone bushes.
Zorst removed entails easy access to gear **** underbody housing. Time to add a short shifter adapter.
3.1 Front eibach antiroll bar with alta endlinks
A great contribution to make compliment the jcw chassis. Holds the grip and transitions so well from left to right and sweepers. Car defo more planted and glued to the track a lot more.

Rear eibach antiroll bar with alta endlinks
Same as above. But the car feels like it wants to steer with the rear wheels. Meaning the grip is increased and the feeling more predictable and stable from bends.



8/10 if you stability and precision driving. Get these. Beware. Most people just install the rears as the front is a pain in the ****. Do them both to get the most out of your cars balance and complements both axles.
I done these next bit of mods in quick sucession. As they all complement each other so well, in regards to the installation.
Todo the front antiroll bars. You need to lower the subframe. To lower that subframe. You need to remove the zorst. So hey, why not add a miltek downpipe.
You need to partially remove the wishbone arms. Why not add powerflex wishbone bushes.
Zorst removed entails easy access to gear **** underbody housing. Time to add a short shifter adapter.

3.1 Front eibach antiroll bar with alta endlinks
A great contribution to make compliment the jcw chassis. Holds the grip and transitions so well from left to right and sweepers. Car defo more planted and glued to the track a lot more.


Rear eibach antiroll bar with alta endlinks
Same as above. But the car feels like it wants to steer with the rear wheels. Meaning the grip is increased and the feeling more predictable and stable from bends.



8/10 if you stability and precision driving. Get these. Beware. Most people just install the rears as the front is a pain in the ****. Do them both to get the most out of your cars balance and complements both axles.
It's a real shame the aftermarket hasn't come out with a wire mesh that is a direct fit to replace the standard scoop grill.
If there is one I'd love someone to post a link.
Also, loving your work log.
If there is one I'd love someone to post a link.
Also, loving your work log.
3.2 front wishbone bushes. Powerflex.
3.2 front wishbone bushes. Powerflex.
From my limited experience. The r56 suffers from pitting and directional instability when pushing the brakes for fast stoppages.
After taking off the wishbones with the rear arm. I noticed why. There is soo much flex in the rubber! About 1.5 inches from left to right, up and down in movement,

installed the powerflex poly bushes(pain in the **** to install)
Noticed when trying to flex them. Only about half an inch movement.


The wishbone bushes basically take all the chassis movement under braking and acceleration, where the suspension is concerned.
On the road difference?
Well. Just from these bushes, car feels soo different.
You need to give it a few days for the rubber to settle down, under high and low temps. As it feels quite hard at first.
Once settled. Noticed much more stability under braking and acceraltion. And when you twitch from left to right. The response it exceptional.
8/10 must for performance driving. But a very hard install.
From my limited experience. The r56 suffers from pitting and directional instability when pushing the brakes for fast stoppages.
After taking off the wishbones with the rear arm. I noticed why. There is soo much flex in the rubber! About 1.5 inches from left to right, up and down in movement,

installed the powerflex poly bushes(pain in the **** to install)
Noticed when trying to flex them. Only about half an inch movement.


The wishbone bushes basically take all the chassis movement under braking and acceleration, where the suspension is concerned.
On the road difference?
Well. Just from these bushes, car feels soo different.
You need to give it a few days for the rubber to settle down, under high and low temps. As it feels quite hard at first.Once settled. Noticed much more stability under braking and acceraltion. And when you twitch from left to right. The response it exceptional.
8/10 must for performance driving. But a very hard install.
ill try to post a link to a replacement mesh. its a close match. just bought it myself for another project.
search this in ebay: "Aluminium Black Mesh Kamei Style 100 x 25 NKTuning"
yea, I know there are meshes you can buy and make fit. Just be nice if one of the aftermarket companies would pre-form everything so you don't have to rig it.
Excellent thread. I'm curious though, how much more rigid (harsh) is the ride with all the new suspension parts. Have you replaced the stock springs yet? Any issues with alignment or tire wear on the inside of the tire?
harshness? no. its quite stiff when you install poly bushes at first* note* at first. in the first few days. after that.the bushes settle down and you got a tidy handling chassis and no issues whatsoever in the ride comfort.
to need to allign as its a direct replacement of factory bushes. tyre wear for me the same across the pattern. my car is pretty new so no alignment issues anyway. so that helps.
regarding stock springs. i went to the marmaa mini run with stock springs and suspension. and was up against r53 with niice suspension setups. the r56 didnt let me down at all. i had to take wider and different point of attacks in the corners. but the stock s/s are decent.
ive just upgarded to meisters last week. will update soon. reason. after seeing the cars running coilovers didnt really need to move off their lane to take a sweeper. whereas i had to adjust my lines to make a fast bend. that was enuf for me to going for a track or very fast road setup.
hope that helps
remember?


yes. theirs alot more to write up. then upload, format and post. takes time. sometimes i have an evening free and just post away. then leave it for a month.
for all you guys out there. ive done the D.O.S CAI.






<YES ALL OF THAT.
its that good. grrrrrr rooooaaarrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrRRRRRRRRRR GRGRGRGROOOAARR WHHiiine wiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiine TSHHHHHHH! tshHHHHSHSH
WILL UPDATE SOON.
for all you guys out there. ive done the D.O.S CAI.





<YES ALL OF THAT.its that good. grrrrrr rooooaaarrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrRRRRRRRRRR GRGRGRGROOOAARR WHHiiine wiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiine TSHHHHHHH! tshHHHHSHSH
WILL UPDATE SOON.
This is a good idea, I'll probably do this as well.
If anyone would like to buy the same «bonnet scoop cooling vent» that you showed in the pict

It can be bought at minigenuineparts in the MINI challenge section...http://www.minigenuineparts.co.uk/mi...nge_Parts.html... just a tought!!!

It can be bought at minigenuineparts in the MINI challenge section...http://www.minigenuineparts.co.uk/mi...nge_Parts.html... just a tought!!!
If anyone would like to buy the same «bonnet scoop cooling vent» that you showed in the pict
It can be bought at minigenuineparts in the MINI challenge section...http://www.minigenuineparts.co.uk/mi...nge_Parts.html... just a tought!!!
It can be bought at minigenuineparts in the MINI challenge section...http://www.minigenuineparts.co.uk/mi...nge_Parts.html... just a tought!!!
PART 3.3 miltek downpipe.
PART 3.3 miltek downpipe.
Stock down pipe is rated at 400cpi
Miltek is rated at 200cpi
Decat 0cpi
So it’s in between. Clears up restrictions in the airflow, whilst still cleaning the air. Still will pass an emissions test. Won’t fool the ecu tho. Regarding engine lights. Yes. You will get it. Cooper s or jcw. A remap should sort that out or a cheap code reader.
Easy install. Awkward to get the heat shield off.
Some healthy gains to be had here. Not dynoed but feels like 5-10bhp and 12ft torque.
The noise is now crazy!!!!!!!
Grrrrrrrrrrrkkkkkkkkkkkkk POP pap POP bang BANG POP!

The noise if im honest has gone up by 30% at least.
I’m not complaining, its soo addictive. To feather the throttle and ….. POP pap POP bang BANG POP!
The pops and literally speaking, the “BANGS”, are pretty loud!
And when you accelerate away, so throaty and deep roar, and just when you let off, really raspy.
What can I say… amazing! Amazing! Amazing!

9/10 but pricey.
And enjoy this lil vid just made:
Stock down pipe is rated at 400cpi

Miltek is rated at 200cpi

Decat 0cpi

So it’s in between. Clears up restrictions in the airflow, whilst still cleaning the air. Still will pass an emissions test. Won’t fool the ecu tho. Regarding engine lights. Yes. You will get it. Cooper s or jcw. A remap should sort that out or a cheap code reader.
Easy install. Awkward to get the heat shield off.
Some healthy gains to be had here. Not dynoed but feels like 5-10bhp and 12ft torque.

The noise is now crazy!!!!!!!
Grrrrrrrrrrrkkkkkkkkkkkkk POP pap POP bang BANG POP!


The noise if im honest has gone up by 30% at least.

I’m not complaining, its soo addictive. To feather the throttle and ….. POP pap POP bang BANG POP!
The pops and literally speaking, the “BANGS”, are pretty loud!
And when you accelerate away, so throaty and deep roar, and just when you let off, really raspy.
What can I say… amazing! Amazing! Amazing!

9/10 but pricey.
And enjoy this lil vid just made:
Last edited by shams1924; Apr 20, 2011 at 09:11 PM.
cpi (cells per inch)
update**** video added to miltek downpipe post. WATCH IT.......... ;-)


