JCW JCW tuning kit to be installed on my 2007 MCS next week
JCW tuning kit to be installed on my 2007 MCS next week
After test driving a new Factory JCW, I decided that a new car was not in my future (my MCS is my third car. I have a Land Rover Discovery and a Triumph Spitfire). So instead of buying a new car, I ordered the JCW tuning kit to give my 2007 MCS a little more zip.
I have heard from my dealer that sometimes the updates to the ECU can be problematic, and can require an additional day to complete the update.
Any folks out there who went through this give me their story?
I have heard from my dealer that sometimes the updates to the ECU can be problematic, and can require an additional day to complete the update.
Any folks out there who went through this give me their story?
Had mine installed about 3k miles ago on my MCSa. I dropped it off right when they opened at about 7:30am and got to drive it home at about 2PM. Eventhough I was only charged for a 3 hour install, it took almost 5 hours to be done. I'm guessing it was the ecu upgrade that took most of the time, but that's just my guess. If you're doing the upgrade, it's prob best to drop it early and just take a loaner for the day. I didn't mind waiting myself since it was a day off from work so I can just relax in the waiting room and play WoW while I wait. Been a few months since the install, but I really feel the upgrade made it a much better car. Love that exhaust sound so much I drive with the windows down alot more.
I had called my dealer, Crevier Mini, to get a quote on the kit and they were going to give me 10% off. I asked if I bought it from another delaer would they install it and what would the cost be. They told me yes and the install was $210.00. So I ordered the kit from Morristown Mini and had it installed at Crevier all for less than the list price.
You will enjoy the new Stage 1 JCW kit.
The older yr S is, the longer it will take to do the ECU updates because the whole enchilada gets updated, not just the programming for the tune kit. On my 09 it took barely an hour to update, but then it was only a couple months removed from the factory/vdc.
Enjoy the kit. It is awesome.
Enjoy the kit. It is awesome.
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My Current plan is to show up at dealer on Friday at 8:00am, and hope to drive it home later that day. Any folks need to leave theirs overnight because of a ECU programming issue?
It does take a rather long time to reprogram the car software. But after sitting in the dealer lounge from 8:30am to 6pm, getting the JCW Tuning Kit installed, with the driving lights and strut, I was a very happy camper.
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I had to leave my 07 at the dealer overnight for the ecu update. I figured as much since it was of the first R56's produced. Well worth the wait, and still only paid for the 3.5 hours of install time. Every dealer should only charge you the quoted install time regardless of how long it actually takes. Once the start the ecu update, they just leave it and go work on something else.
I think the strut is a neccessity with the kit. Less torque-squirrely under acceleration and a lot tighter in the turns, at least to me. Come to think of it, my R53 shoulda had one.
(even the zit-laden punk kid at my local milk store commented about "how righteous" the exhaust sounded)
work started around 10am and he finished installing all of the hardware by 11:30am (then it looked like he went off to lunch, don't blame him) and came back around 12pm and hooked up the car to the computer(s). by 1:30 he finished and took the car for a quick test run.
i would say it is best to make an early appointment with the dealer so you can take the car back same day.
It's Done!!!
Pretty much just like mellowmcs, my car was turned back to me about 1:00pm. Thankfully, no problems loading the ECU. I love the sound of the exaust. It's not as loud as the Monza exaust on my Triumph, but it sounds great.
I must say, I don't feel the big boost of low end torque that I felt when driving the Factory JCW, but really could feel the extra power when passing on the highway, and it does feel a bit quicker of the line.
One of the great things about the install, as that in the rear of the car where they needed to place the JCW badge, was the badge from the dealer where I bought the car. The tech asked where I wanted the badge, since there was already something in the place where it should be. I asked if he could remove the old dealer badge, and he said "No Problem". Sweet!, I never liked being a traveling advertisement for dealership I never go to anymore...
Another happy JCW tuning customer!
Pretty much just like mellowmcs, my car was turned back to me about 1:00pm. Thankfully, no problems loading the ECU. I love the sound of the exaust. It's not as loud as the Monza exaust on my Triumph, but it sounds great.
I must say, I don't feel the big boost of low end torque that I felt when driving the Factory JCW, but really could feel the extra power when passing on the highway, and it does feel a bit quicker of the line.
One of the great things about the install, as that in the rear of the car where they needed to place the JCW badge, was the badge from the dealer where I bought the car. The tech asked where I wanted the badge, since there was already something in the place where it should be. I asked if he could remove the old dealer badge, and he said "No Problem". Sweet!, I never liked being a traveling advertisement for dealership I never go to anymore...
Another happy JCW tuning customer!
fantastic! you'll love it. as for the exhaust give it another 500-1000miles and it gets louder.
I also felt the most difference in passing (in 6th). Even when going up hill I didn't feel the need to down shift.
I did the same with my rear badge. I asked them to remove it and they removed it. I put a magnetic strip on the back of it so I can put it back and remove any time I want.
I also felt the most difference in passing (in 6th). Even when going up hill I didn't feel the need to down shift.
I did the same with my rear badge. I asked them to remove it and they removed it. I put a magnetic strip on the back of it so I can put it back and remove any time I want.
Did 200 miles on the car over the weekend. The Exhaust bothered my wife a little on the highway, but I thought it sounded sweet. I found that I don't bother pushing the "Sport" button anymore. I wonder what other folks are doing?
I insulated the back a little and it helps. It is now wife approved.
You can insulate in the passenger compartment and under the car. By doing both you can get a pretty good control of the muffler sound.
In the passenger compartment, you should do under the rear seat and in the trunk area. I used Dynamat extreme but you could use almost anything including fatmat etc, but use the good stuff, the ones with multiple different layers including something like asphalt. I did a little in the rear passenger and trunk on the sides but that is a pain with the panels to be removed.
Under the car, I used four cans of undercoat with sound deadener, but it could be more. Be careful where you spray and do not spray on the sway bar bushings otherwise it will creek and make the noise much worse. Cover those areas you do not want overspray. Spray it all the way into the middle section of the car, that coincides with the rear seat. Apply minimum of two coats to build up the area a little. This stuff stinks so do this outside when it not too windy. Also be careful not to spray on the muffler.
It does add a few pounds to the car but the noise is less. Hope this helps.
There is a good writeup on interior sound insulation including doors in the hifi section that I used as a guide. I cannot find it right now but I think it was written by Robin Cassady.
In the passenger compartment, you should do under the rear seat and in the trunk area. I used Dynamat extreme but you could use almost anything including fatmat etc, but use the good stuff, the ones with multiple different layers including something like asphalt. I did a little in the rear passenger and trunk on the sides but that is a pain with the panels to be removed.
Under the car, I used four cans of undercoat with sound deadener, but it could be more. Be careful where you spray and do not spray on the sway bar bushings otherwise it will creek and make the noise much worse. Cover those areas you do not want overspray. Spray it all the way into the middle section of the car, that coincides with the rear seat. Apply minimum of two coats to build up the area a little. This stuff stinks so do this outside when it not too windy. Also be careful not to spray on the muffler.
It does add a few pounds to the car but the noise is less. Hope this helps.
There is a good writeup on interior sound insulation including doors in the hifi section that I used as a guide. I cannot find it right now but I think it was written by Robin Cassady.
You can insulate in the passenger compartment and under the car. By doing both you can get a pretty good control of the muffler sound.
In the passenger compartment, you should do under the rear seat and in the trunk area. I used Dynamat extreme but you could use almost anything including fatmat etc, but use the good stuff, the ones with multiple different layers including something like asphalt. I did a little in the rear passenger and trunk on the sides but that is a pain with the panels to be removed.
Under the car, I used four cans of undercoat with sound deadener, but it could be more. Be careful where you spray and do not spray on the sway bar bushings otherwise it will creek and make the noise much worse. Cover those areas you do not want overspray. Spray it all the way into the middle section of the car, that coincides with the rear seat. Apply minimum of two coats to build up the area a little. This stuff stinks so do this outside when it not too windy. Also be careful not to spray on the muffler.
It does add a few pounds to the car but the noise is less. Hope this helps.
There is a good writeup on interior sound insulation including doors in the hifi section that I used as a guide. I cannot find it right now but I think it was written by Robin Cassady.
In the passenger compartment, you should do under the rear seat and in the trunk area. I used Dynamat extreme but you could use almost anything including fatmat etc, but use the good stuff, the ones with multiple different layers including something like asphalt. I did a little in the rear passenger and trunk on the sides but that is a pain with the panels to be removed.
Under the car, I used four cans of undercoat with sound deadener, but it could be more. Be careful where you spray and do not spray on the sway bar bushings otherwise it will creek and make the noise much worse. Cover those areas you do not want overspray. Spray it all the way into the middle section of the car, that coincides with the rear seat. Apply minimum of two coats to build up the area a little. This stuff stinks so do this outside when it not too windy. Also be careful not to spray on the muffler.
It does add a few pounds to the car but the noise is less. Hope this helps.
There is a good writeup on interior sound insulation including doors in the hifi section that I used as a guide. I cannot find it right now but I think it was written by Robin Cassady.
Last edited by MiniGRM; Sep 5, 2009 at 04:48 PM.


