Your still going to hear your intake and everything else as long as you place it in the right places. I have Dynamat Extream on order. I will do the doors, rear hatch, under the rear wheel well covers and a few other none insulated places.

My goal is to knock out road noise while letting the sweet sound of the engine shine. I am also looking to increase the sound quality of the Harmon Kardon. The base needs to be tamed.

Wish me luck.

Longboard

 

I'd like to do some sound dampening on my 06 MCS, but have no experience in this area. I've read the threads I could find and visited the B-Quiet site, which brings up the following questions:

1). For those of you who have experience with both, is the Dynamat demonstrably superior to B-Quiet Ultimate, or are the differences small enough that those who are not acoustical geniuses would not notice? B-Quiet Ultimate is apparently less expensive and lighter, qualities that have a certain appeal...

2). Is installation about the same for both or is one easier to work with?

3). Which areas are the biggest offenders/should be tackled first? I’m not trying to recreate Carnegie Hall, just cut down on NVH.

4). What have people found to be the best cleaner/solvent to treat the area before installing Dynamat/B-Quiet?

5). If you were to do it again, what would you do differently?

6). Any other observations/rules/caveats to be aware of?

7). On a related topic: in a similar thread I noticed a shot (from Tony B?) of the area under the rear seat completely dynamatted. I'd like to do this, but am sorry to say I’ve tried, but haven't figured out how to remove the bottom rear seat cushion. Can anyone enlighten me?

As always, thanks for your collective insights.

Stephan

 

• My ear can not tell the difference; I’m sure it would take highly sophisticated equipment in an unrealistic limited environment with a narrow stimulus.
• The b-quiet ultimate is easier to work with and the b-quiet extreme easier still (good for the plastic sections).
• For NVH, not sound system improvements, the door skins and the dished section on the door panels, and boot hatch skin are good places to start and are economical approaches.
• Denatured alcohol is easy on the paint but removes the surface treatments with little effort.
• I would have purchased a huge amount to begin and got over that aversion to adding weight. Once again, pages 4 through 7 as an example of more is better https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...4&ppuser=13976
• Take your time, clean well, apply in moderated temp environment with low humidity, make sure the material covers the surface contours precisely, puncture any bubbled spots and smooth, tape the edges to avoid a mess later, in other words don’t take this application lightly or you won’t get the most for your money. Apply double layers in problem areas like the boot floor if you don’t have a rear seat.
• Pull up on the front first, push back and push down to unhook the rear.

 

Thanks, k-huevo,

…for your clear assessment. This post helps a lot!

I've looked through your gallery a couple of times now and am very impressed with how far you have taken the sound dampening process. Your car must be very quiet! I really liked your filling the dash down tubes. I'm thinking spray foam insulation might work well for this? You mention "taping the edges" and your gallery shot of tools includes what looks like a rool of aluminium tape. Is this what you use to cover the edges of the Dynamat/B-Quiet? Is it to prevent pull-up and dog-earing?

Sorry to go on and on with the questions, everybody, but seeing something done is so much clearer than reading how to do it.

I'm pretty paranoid about breaking trim pieces because I don't understand how to apply pressure correctly to remove them. Re:removing the door skins. Does the round white reflector hiding the torx screw pry off or twist off? Does the skin take a lot of muscle to pry off/does it easily snap back on? Guess I'll shut up for now.

Happy T Day

Stephan

 

The aluminum tape on the edges is to keep the viscoelasitc material from oozing later and making a mess where you don’t want it. As long as the surface has been cleaned well there is no risk of the edges pulling up.

The reflector can be removed with the tip of a small blade screwdriver; the slot to insert the blade is at the bottom center. Don’t forget there are four fasteners total on the door panel.

Roll down the window, grasp the panel near the outside mirror and yank, follow the edge down the hinge side pulling each clip as you go, when you get around to the top edge pull out and up to clear the door lock wire. If you have broken clips, be sure to replace them with the same color per location. Look behind the panel when putting it back on to be sure the clips are indexing with the holes before giving it a sharp push or smack..

To help avoid rattles & squeaks later, have on hand some adhesive backed felt and foam. I cut strips of each with a large paper cutter to have smooth even cuts and I leave some pieces larger for custom applications. Cut some small squares of the felt about ¼ inch and stick to the backs of the clips and reinsert them on the panel one at a time so as not to mix them up; this will keep them from buzzing. Cut a half inch wide felt strip and place it in the recess where the door latch wire travels. Attach strips of the foam to the edge of the panel from a point where the corresponding rubber shield ends on the door above the latch mechanism down to past the first turn; this is where the majority of door squeaks are generated. I know there is felt vibration tape already there but it is ineffectual. Cut & place small squares of the felt on the ends of the plastic rivets that attach the arm rest. There are some other sources of plastic-on-plastic and plastic-to-metal noise that I’m sure will notice once you tackle the job.

 

I ordered the B-quiet last week, can't wait til it gets here. tap tap tap.....

Annette

 

Most Venerable Master Obi-k-huevo,

Thank you for taking the time to detail the NVH process so fully. You should write an article for MC2 Magazine. Seriously.

After googling "aluminum tape" and "adhesive backed felt and foam" I'm now drowning in information but completely lacking in the experience and knowledge to make a decision. 3M Aluminum Foil Tape #438? Foam Squares? Open cell /closed cell? 3M VHB 4950 foam tape? Help. If you would kindly suggest which aluminum tape and adhesive backed felt and foam have worked for you, and where I might find them I'd be grateful and considerably less confused.

All right, I admit it. I've looked and looked and can't find the 4th screw in the door skin either...

Your humble apprentice,

Stephan

 

I do have a favorite for aluminum tape, but that’s because I use it to hold my house together. Any brand of tape will do for interior applications; just avoid the water proof stuff, it’s gooey. Sheets of adhesive backed felt and foam are available at WalMart & Hobby Lobby and the tape at Home Depot, lumber supply & hardware stores.

One screw is behind the reflector and one screw at each end of the arm rest attachment points.

 

For sound deadening I had my audio upgrade shop install VB max-
http://www.cascadeaudio.com/prod/vbalum.html

And on the inner door behind the magnet for each front midrange speaker:
http://www.cascadeaudio.com/prod/deflex.html

The front doors are alot more solid and don't rattle if the music is turned up loud.

The road noise is less.

But I can still hear the engine and exhaust and when I want to really hear well then I lower both windows.

If outside noise is cut down then you can play your music a little less loudly

The added weight is a penalty but it's not too bad. I had material added to the outer metal of the door, inner metal facing the interior and inner door panel inside surface. About 30 ft in two front doors alone.

The Deflex damping pad behind the door speakers was also helpful- especially at higher volumes.

 

I use this stuff from JC Whitney. Works great and much cheaper.

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...ound+dampening