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I'm new to NAM.com, so I hope this is where to discuss upgrades. If not, please move this post to the appropriate forum thread.
I have been researching headlight info for a couple of months. The stock headlights on my 2011 were bad. I drive 2.5 hrs back and forth to work in the evenings on dark, back roads. The light output was horrible with basically no distance, so I ordered some Spec-D projector assemblies from CARID.com. It was a super easy install. Then I found I don't have constant high beams now, and that's a deal-breaker for me. I'd seen that different Spec-D assemblies said that the constant function wouldn't work, but the description said nothing about that with the ones I chose. I now get error codes about high beam malfunctions. Also, they are so cheaply made that sitting at a traffic light with the motor running, the headlight beams bounce with the vibration. Not to mention that bumps on the road cause the beams to bounce.
I want to return them for the Spyder brand which I'm hoping is a better quality. I didn't get the Spyder brand to begin with, because they have the cutout for the washers, but it is just a dummy cutout. I like the look of the Spec-D, but I'll have to live with the fake washer cutout, I guess.
CARID.com says easy returns on the website, but that's not what I am finding. They had me take pics of the box label, my VIN, and a video showing the error codes I am getting for high beam malfunctions for both sides. I did that, and now they want pics of the installed assemblies, and the wiring. IT'S 3 BOLTS AND PLUG IN THE HARNESS!! I ordered from CARID.com because I had a $50 credit with them. All of this is dragging out what should be a simple return for poor quality, and a not as described item.
So, buyer beware when it comes to Spec-D products, and CARID.com. If anyone has had a poor experience with the Spyder headlight assemblies, please let me know.
I would suggest just going for the Factory Xenon conversion. Those aftermarket Spyder and Sped-D lights are cool looking but their actual light output at night isn't anything to write home about. Going with the Xenons will give you the actual light you need to see at night.
If you want to come to Atlanta we are offering FREE install and Coding when you purchase from us too. https://www.waymotorworks.com/xenon-...7-r58-r59.html
waymotorworks
I’ve been looking for a set of oem xenon
but with out the washer
cut out
you been able to help out
NO ALL the Xenon headlights have the cutout for the washers. But not all cars had the washers. The later 2012+ cars it was based on packages and options the Xenons may or may not have washers. If they didn't have washers they had a spring clip with the washer door on it to fill the hole, but no jets or hoses.
Also the Retrofit Xenon kit had the washer cutouts but had the same covers with spring loaded clips to hold them on.
I have been running the Spyder H9 headlights for two years and have zero complaints. I regret not putting some vinyl film over them for protection, but the surface is still in great shape after 10k miles of interstate driving and 6k in the city. No bouncing lights when driving on pothole-ridden local roads.
I fitted an HID kit from a reputable company. Brights work the same as with the stock headlights. The beam cutoffs are good, and the positions are easy to adjust, but if you go this route be conservative with how you aim them as a courtesy to oncoming drivers. That said, I did not notice the auto-leveling feature on my previous R56S with stock HIDs ever be useful (e.g. not blinding drivers while driving on hilly roads). I have not had anyone flash their brights at me in a year and a half since I finalized the adjustments. I left markings on the wall where I first set them up, and they are still perfectly aligned. Spyder Halogen Headlight
I tried a number of different LED bulb designs, and all were terrible in this headlight and not suitable for use IMO.
I didn't want the headlight washer cap either, but I can live with it. I have yet to try LED turn signal bulbs, mainly because I didn't want to install external resistors with heatsinks.
Last edited by fonseca; Jan 20, 2019 at 06:21 PM.
Reason: photo attached
I have been running the Spyder H9 headlights for two years and have zero complaints. I regret not putting some vinyl film over them for protection, but the surface is still in great shape after 10k miles of interstate driving and 6k in the city. No bouncing lights when driving on pothole-ridden local roads.
I fitted an HID kit from a reputable company. Brights work the same as with the stock headlights. The beam cutoffs are good, and the positions are easy to adjust, but if you go this route be conservative with how you aim them as a courtesy to oncoming drivers. That said, I did not notice the auto-leveling feature on my previous R56S with stock HIDs ever be useful (e.g. not blinding drivers while driving on hilly roads). I have not had anyone flash their brights at me in a year and a half since I finalized the adjustments. I left markings on the wall where I first set them up, and they are still perfectly aligned. Spyder Halogen Headlight
I tried a number of different LED bulb designs, and all were terrible in this headlight and not suitable for use IMO.
I didn't want the headlight washer cap either, but I can live with it. I have yet to try LED turn signal bulbs, mainly because I didn't want to install external resistors with heatsinks.
When you refer to LED bulbs being terrible, can you elaborate what do you mean? From my own research so far, LED bulbs, such as OPT7 Fluxbeam X which has 360 degree illumination, comes with a capacitor and it's supposed really good from what I read in the reviews. Are you not opting for the LED's due to any reason at all? And with LED bulbs, will you still need the cancellor capacitors that most HID conversion kits will need?