Interior/Exterior Doing a perfect projector retrofit on '11 R56
#26
I too attached the projector to the reflector bowl. I did so without it touching anything else so I can just use the stock adjustment screws on the outside of the headlight housing to adjust the aim. It worked flawlessly.
#27
#28
#29
I was getting a bulb out warning and the HIDs were flickering without being able to turn them on. This was with using a regular CAN-BUS harness from TheRetrofitSource. Matt over there had a harness custom made for me that takes power from the battery instead of the stock wiring. The harness included a capacitor to level out the flickering, and a load resistor to prevent a bulb warning on the low beams. The harness was $50 and works perfectly, I still use the OEM headlight switch to turn them on so it essentially works as stock.
Call TRS and ask for Matt. Tell him that you need the same custom harness that he made for a 2011 MINI Cooper S back in May '12. It was for order number 18817. It was a custom H13 harness made with a capacitor to level out the flickering.
#30
Yep, I had a problem just like this. It was solved by a custom wiring harness.
I was getting a bulb out warning and the HIDs were flickering without being able to turn them on. This was with using a regular CAN-BUS harness from TheRetrofitSource. Matt over there had a harness custom made for me that takes power from the battery instead of the stock wiring. The harness included a capacitor to level out the flickering, and a load resistor to prevent a bulb warning on the low beams. The harness was $50 and works perfectly, I still use the OEM headlight switch to turn them on so it essentially works as stock.
Call TRS and ask for Matt. Tell him that you need the same custom harness that he made for a 2011 MINI Cooper S back in May '12. It was for order number 18817. It was a custom H13 harness made with a capacitor to level out the flickering.
I was getting a bulb out warning and the HIDs were flickering without being able to turn them on. This was with using a regular CAN-BUS harness from TheRetrofitSource. Matt over there had a harness custom made for me that takes power from the battery instead of the stock wiring. The harness included a capacitor to level out the flickering, and a load resistor to prevent a bulb warning on the low beams. The harness was $50 and works perfectly, I still use the OEM headlight switch to turn them on so it essentially works as stock.
Call TRS and ask for Matt. Tell him that you need the same custom harness that he made for a 2011 MINI Cooper S back in May '12. It was for order number 18817. It was a custom H13 harness made with a capacitor to level out the flickering.
#31
Do your high beams and flash-to-pass work? I have warning cancellers I used for the low beam, but had to leave them off the hi-beams because they wouldn't work if I connected them. So my lows and highs work (just a cut-off removal), but my car whines that my high beams are not working for both lights each time I start the car.
It sounds like you just need your car coded to disable the bulb checks. If you're in the Los Angeles area, I provide this service for $20. If you're elsewhere search the forum for "NCS Expert Directory" to find a member near you!
#32
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