I've already done the fog hids! I love the color match with the xenon headlights... If I could just run the fogs with these would look awesome!

Waiting for my paint and LEDs to get here.

 

For those that do not want to open the light assemblies up, there are halo lamps available.

Part # 103-116 for silver, Part # 103-115 for black from Moss Mini.

Halo headlights so you are able to get the LED ring with the xenon headlights. Ring adds a little light, but looks awesome with the rings.

Click here for Silver

-and-

Click here for Black

 

I wonder how these projectors function compared to my 06' HID projectors? I've been waiting for a good weekend to do the Joey Mod, but this might be a good alternative if it's bolt on...

 

Not sure about the Mini Halo lights, but other projectors on other models are great! They are HID also I believe, you may want to check with Moss Motors about that.
Should be cake to install also, pretty sure someone on the forum has installed them, might want to post a thread about it.

 

If the picture is acurate, what about the T/S, gen 1 cars don't have a T/S in the headlight housing, would be a lot of extra wiring to use them for anything else than an additional park light.

Although could be very cool if you decided to shave your T/S

 

Finally got to do this over the w/e, of course in combination with a Joey Mod (Best Joey Mod thread IMO: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...od-how-to.html. )

I did mine with these:
http://www.oznium.com/prewired-surface-mount-led
And while they worked OK, the ribon wire that they use is too long and makes for a lot of extra wire inside the housing, as you can see here:

The biggest problem I have with them is that in the daylight with the lights off you can see the little led squares through the plastic surround. When I get back from MOTD I'm going to order a different style led & re-do them, I'll post new pic's when I do.
Day:

Night:

 

niceeeee

 

Ok, finally got around to re-doing my projector surrounds, as I said earlier I really didn't like the jumble of wires created by the led's I had chosen, and after living with them for a while it also bugged me that they were so white, in comparison to the 8000k lights I was running everywhere else.

So, here we go, first off, because I was looking to get rid of the large amount of wires involved in doing 8 individualy pre-wired, 12 volt ready, led's, I decided to do a little research:

LED 101, the Oznium website will tell you that their led's will work within the range of 2 - 4 volts of supplied power, therefore if you try and wire a single led to 12v without a resistor, you will either burn it out very fast, or immediately. So the fix for this if you don't want to have each one individually wired with an in-line resistor, is to wire them direct, in "series" ( + to - to + to - ) until the desired division of voltage is reached. ( basiclly, with a 12v source, 1=12v, 2=6v, 3=4v, and so on)
So with 8 led's involved I decided to wire them in a series of "4", therefore giving me an individual voltage of 3v, which would not only put me in the operating range of the led, but give me a little cushion for any slight power spikes.

Also, since I was trying to "blue them up a little" I decided to add some blue led's to the mix, so here's what I used:
Ozniums 5mm white led's w/o resistors.



and their 3mm blue led's w/o resistors. (3mm as to just give a hint of blue, but to limit them even more, I individually heat shrinked them so that they would only shine from the tips)



Basiclly I bent & soldered each lead so that they fit inside each indentation of the surround, again only 4 per series. (I tried all 8, but of course that brought the individual voltage down to 1.5v per led, and they would not light at all)

Then I repeated the process with the 3mm blues in the lower recess of the housing, once everything was fitted, I simply put a small spot of clear silicone into each recess, and a bead of silicone into the trough (if you will) at the bottom of the housing, I simply sank the 2 sections of blu's into the silicone submerging the leads completely, and then placed the whites into the recessed areas, then used small pieces of duct tape on the leads to hold everything in place until the silicone set up. (I couldn't get any other type of tape to stick)
After the silicone had set up I then finished soldering the ends of the appropriate leads to each other. (+ to +, - to -, all the while making sure not to cross any, then simply adding a jumper wire from either end + & -, to bring everything together in the center where I could then simply solder a single + and - to the leads for power to the unit.
After this I carefully removed the pieces of tape ( I held the white leds in place with a finger and used a tweezers so that I didn't accidently pull the leds from the silicone). Then I covered the entire inside with a layer of silicone, being sure to cover all the leads & connections. (not only does the silicone act as an adheasive, but as an insulator as well)
The end result looked like this:







Not ness. that pretty, but extremely functional, and I only have 2 (+ & -) wires to mess with.

Put everything back together & your done.
Here's how it turned out:

Here's a pic of only the drivers side being done, so you can see the before & after difference between the 2 different setups:

(headlights off)


(headlights on)


Before:


After:


An added bonus to using a regular led, compaired to the surface mounts I used the first time, is that with the regular ones giving off light 360* instead of just 180*, they light up the projector globe nicely, both of those pic's are with the headlights off.

Finished effect:



The color now matches almost perfectly.

Oh, and yes, if you're going to do it this way, give yourself plenty of time to have your headlights out of the car, not counting soldering time, it takes a good 1-2 hours for each application of silicone to dry.

Also, while colored lights are illegal in most states, don't forget, you can always just power them with a switch instead of with your park lights, just for a different effect while parked, they take so little current, you could leave them on for a while without running down your battery much.

 

[MrBurns]Ex-cel-lent.[/MrBurns]

Thanks!!!

 

anyone tried to wire the led lights to the auto adjustment motor of the headlights?

 

Think I'm going to have to do this. Thanks!

 

Have any of you come across a tutorial on how to open these headlamps? I am ready to tackle this DIY.

 

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d.php?t=164531

 

Thanks for the tutorial! I'll be doing a Joey mod on my Xenons shortly I'm going to see if I can fit 2 LEDs into to each clear dome, one clear and one amber. This will enable me to have the white Xenon ring and also flash amber with the indicators! The OEM Xenons are so much better looking than the aftermarket projectors IMO.
Thanks heaps!!

 

So by shrink wrapping the body of the LED it looks like the LEDs are positioned just outside of the clear dome with the light from the tip of the LED shining in to the dome. Is this correct? And is this done so that you're not able to see the body of the LED during the day when the lights are off.

 

Basically yes, by siliconing the base and leads outside of the dome/bubble with just the tips inside of it, they are covered up by the chrome ring when re-asembled.