So for the past few months my passenger door would only unlock manually from the inside and would only unlock with the key fob. A couple of days ago I ran into more issues, here's a quick recap.

Key fob - only hatch unlocks, locks, and windows go down
Toggle - doesn't lock/unlock (note: car no longer locks automatically while moving)
Keyhole - unlocks driver's door, locks as well

Note: I do hear the actuator work, but it just doesn't do anything. Really annoyed with the car right now...

This might need moving to Maintenance, etc. so if mods see fit, go ahead..

 

I think you need to replace the lock actuators. Mine did some weird things and then I replaced it and it works fine now.

 

If you cant even use the key to lock/unlock then you most likely need to replace the actuator.

A few years back I had an issue where the fob wouldn't lock/unlock anything, nor would the doors lock at 10mph. I never had time to get it fixed, and one day it just started working... No idea.

Update, I have a different R53, and I have the same issue. Its only the driver's side door. It doesn't unlock w/ the fob, but will lock and locks at 10mph just fine. Passenger works just fine. No idea. Lock/unlock works w/ key.

Anyone? I dont think its the actuator, since it locks via fob. Seems like a software issue or electronic, not mechanical.

 

I was worried about that, I guess I'll have to live with it until the end of summer. How much did you pay for parts/labor?

Burley, I edited my original post just now. Turns out using the keyhole does unlock the driver's door, but not the passenger door. The passenger side has been shot for a few months so that actuator most likely has to be replaced. The driver's was random and I have a feeling that it's likely to be an electrical issue/gremlin.

As an aside, I hate when parts that shouldn't go bad, do. Then again, my car does turn 8 in June lol.

 

I can't remember. I think the actuator was between $100 and $150 though.

 

2002 Mini Cooper S..

My passenger door opens from the inside when you pull the handle twice, but not from the outside with my key fob. When unlocking the door remotely, only the driver side's lock pops up, while the passenger side stays in the down position. If it is in the up position, my key fob is able to lock it again. I opened the door up and the cable looks fine, is there another cable? Do I need a new actuator?

Thanks!

 

In all of the above instances I believe that your problem is a mechanical failure of the door actuator. When my driver door failed I took out the actuator to see if I could determine the source of the problem. The symptoms that I was experiencing was that the driver's side door would not unlock with the FOB, but would unlock manually and would lock with the FOB.

Referencing the sticky on this topic, located here, you can follow along by going to post #60 and looking at the three pictures. If you are able to lock and unlock the driver's door manually with the key this indicates that the connection (#1 in the picture) between the key cylinder in the door handle and the actuator are functioning properly. If you are able to open the doors with the outer door handles that means that connection #4 is functioning correctly. If you can unlock/open the doors with the interior door handles this indicates that everything is connected properly at connection #2.

If any of these functions (opening the door with the outer handle, unlocking the drivers door manually, opening/unlocking the doors with the interior door handle) are impaired the first thing that you need to check is whether or not a cable has popped off or another linkage has broken, either at the point of connection with the interior or exterior door handle or at the actuator. If everything is connected properly then your prime suspect is the actuator for that door.

Moving on, stand outside the car with the doors closed and locked and windows down. Press your ear against the problem door just below the door handle. If the problem lock is on the driver's side press the unlock button once on your key FOB twice for the passenger side door, and listen to hear whether your lock motor is trying to open up the lock. If it is trying to but cannot then your actuator is bad and should be either repaired (good luck, the part of the actuator with the lock mechanism is difficult to access as it is a sealed unit) or replaced.

If you can't hear your actuator trying to unlock the door, it may still be bad but first you should check to make sure that the electrical plug, #5 in the photos, is attached correctly. Other possible culprits include the Body Control Module or a key that is not paired to the car properly.

 

Classic Mini out of Ohio has competitive pricing and also offers a 20% discount to NAM members. I got my OEM alarm from them for about $150.

 

so my drivers door only unlocks/locks via key in the door handle, and doesn't lock itself like the passenger side does once at 10mph.
any clue as to what it might be?
will this be the case of actuator?