Can anyone shed some light on the best roof rack for the R56? I know of 4 kinds, the MINI Oem Rack, Thule Rack, Yakima Rack, and the Monte Blanc. I want a rack that requires NO CUTTING of the roof of the car and is safe for the paint. I am looking to use this for skiing this winter and will need a ski rack as well. I will also use it for longer pieces of wood, etc. I buy from the hardware store. Does anyone have one that they like/dislike?

 

The factory roof rack, for the R56, is rated for 75Kg(165lbs) where all of the other racks are rated at 34Kg(75lbs). There is no contact with the paint, cutting or drilling of the roof is not required for the R56 factory rack system. All, or at least most, of the accessories from Thule and Yakama will fit the MINI cross bars. When the rack is removed there are not tell-tale bolts sticking out of the roof.

All 2007 and newer Coupes come factory ready to accept the MINI rack system. There are four, obscure, short sections of the plastic rain gutter that are pre-notched, ready for removal. Once these are removed they reveal four pockets that the cross bar attachment mechanism inserts into. Once tightened with the supplied tools the rack is solid.

I have a 2006 R53 MCS and had a 2002 R53 MCS both equipped with the factory rack that required drilling of the roof. I have never had any problems with leaks. It is by far the best roof rack system that I have ever used. Incredibly solid, easy to mount and dismount. Definitely a high quality piece.

It is very versatile system that I use to carry bicycles, kayaks, or a cargo box. With anything connecting the front and rear cross bars there is no vibration and the rack rides quietly at any legal speed. But if just the cross bars are left on the roof they will start to vibrate, quietly, at about 25mph and get progressively louder with increased speed, never very loud but definitely there.

 

What he said. The OEM is the way to go

 

I have the factory rack also - 2009 MCS. I also didn't want any paint problems.

Only problem I keep running into is the need for longer bolts for some of the accessories I have added. Thule Bike rack - needed longer bolts. Thule kayak rack - needed longer bolts. Yakima - bike rack (king Cobra) used the universal mighty mounts but the bike does move around more than when it was on the yakima round bars.

Just seems that the MINI rack bars are too big around- who would have thought...

 

i have a modified thule system that you dont have to drill and leaves no paint damage, not even to my black roof. it can hold any attachment and actually wanna put an offroad cage and a full size spare up on the top heres a pic

 

Wow man, car looks sick. I am going to have my white mirrors and roof painted black and tint it out as well. Thanks for the comments as well. Any reason you were set on Thule instead of the MINI rack? I ask because it is so much more $.

 

Modified how?

 

the bars that go side to side have been chopped down to fit more flush and the 2 bars that go from front to back were originally very short, but i switched them out for longer bars from an SUV. i did that because that 2nd bracket by the middle of the windows is what puts down force on the rear bars that go side to side. but with the longer front to rear bars im able to slide the rear load bar forward or backwards to fit any attatchment thule makes. i mainly did it because my civic hatch and mini's roof is big and boring and the extended bars that stretch the whole span of the roof makes it look better

 

Couple weeks ago, saw a brand new Clubman come off the Transporter from Brunswick to the new MINI of Fort Myers and it had a longitudinal style roof rack.

Fastened directly to the roof with no connection to drip rails and it was the best looking MINI Roof Rack I've seen by far.

No idea if MINI offers anything like that for the Coupe.

 

Having no mechanical skills and limited patience, I went with Thule permanent bolts, with snap on/off fixtures. Four black plastic covers hide the base plate when the racks are off.

 

This thread needs more pictures! I'm considering the yakima setup myself..

 

I have the OEM mini rack. I bought it for my 07 and transfered it my 09. After you install it once it is very easy.

 

How much you think I'd spend on that same rack with the ski holders?

 

i Paid $170 for the base and 120 for the ski/board holder. I had my local dealer (Prestige Mini) price match Morristown Mini.

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...egoryID=126737

 

The only problem I forsee with the mini rack systems is the loss of parts and add ons a couple of years from now when they switch bodystyles. Yakima/thule will always fit the same..

 

The roof rack off that morristown mini site for the 2006 model, does it have to be bolted to the roof or anything? It kinda looks like it in the pictures. Anyone know any sites for to get yakima or thule cheap?

 

So it looks like it is a screwed in rack. Anyone know how much installation is for that? or if you can DIY?

 

Read above, I think they answer your question the same as I had when I started the thread. I am absolutely not cutting or drilling my roof for any reason...........

The factory roof rack, for the R56, is rated for 75Kg(165lbs) where all of the other racks are rated at 34Kg(75lbs). There is no contact with the paint, cutting or drilling of the roof is not required for the R56 factory rack system. All, or at least most, of the accessories from Thule and Yakama will fit the MINI cross bars. When the rack is removed there are not tell-tale bolts sticking out of the roof.

 

Just uploaded a pic. to my gallery. Thule Racks with Dewey Weber Longboard.

 

I truly like the look of the thule rack the best but it sits on your roof and can actually cause scratches, it is more expensive than the oem rack and it holds less weight. I am going to post a picture after Thanksgiving when I buy my x-mas tree Griswold style on the roof rack! If I can get a used Thule, I will buy one. Otherwise it will have to be OEM because Morristown will ship one out with a ski holder/snowboard holder for $300 bucks!!!!!

 

I do not have a picture of my car with rack mounted handy, but I've been running Thules for years on all my cars. It takes me about 45 minutes to an hour to set one up on a new car with new fit kit, once done I can take it off or remount in less than 10 minutes. I prefer the versatility of the Thule's attachments and since I'm never going to carry anything but bikes on top, the 75 lb weight limit is fine for me. I have three trays on top and all of my bikes weigh less than 25 lbs each so not an issue. It does affect gas mileage on trips but it's still within acceptable limits to me. As far as scratching the roof, as long as you're careful mounting and dismounting and keep the rubber feet clean that shouldn't be an issue. Occasionally after it's been on awhile, I'll have to hit the area with a bit of wax to get the "lines" off but it doesn't cause permanent damage.

 

OK guys, thanks for your help. I bought a used THULE from Ebay with the aluminum aero bars and just got the ski holder today. Waiting to get the rack until Friday. I think I went with it in the end because I can put it on my R53 or R56 whenever we go skiing or on tripe to try and split the extra mileage between the vehicles. Thanks for all of the good input.

 

Does the OEM Roof rack cause noise at speed. I do like to put my foot down from time to time and i would not like the sound of air whooshing around them the whole time i drive on the highway.

 

I leave the base system on all year long. No noticeable wind noise. THe empty ski rack WHISTLES LOUDLY when empty.

 

I can tell you that my Thule rack whistles something fierce. That being said, the guy I bought it from broke 3 of 4 clips to put the front fairing on so let me get that fixed and ger back to everyone on it. So far though, the fit and finish is great. Also, I had an idea for the whistling: Get silicone and fill in any gap or hole you think might be causing the problem, let it dry and you are all done, no more whistling. I will let everyone know if this works.