Interior/Exterior Matching factory gauges
New gauge faces. Let me know what you think. I believe the oil temp range is not high enough, but let me know. If that's the case, they will cost more because Marshall will have to buy more expensive sending units and redesign the gauge. I will also have to commit to buy more, and, since only about a quarter of the people who expressed interest in these gauges have actually bought any, I would have to take deposits for the new ones.


The Marshall oil pressure sender is a bit bigger and heavier than I imagined. No big deal per se, but I'm wondering about all of that sender mass hanging off the side of the tapless adapter and the stress it puts completely on the adapter's 3/8 NPT threads at the base of the oil filter.
I guess the tapless adapter is beefy enough to deal with the stress?
OBTW, the Oil Temp and Voltmeter gauge faces look great to me Steve. Can't speak to the temp range.
I guess the tapless adapter is beefy enough to deal with the stress?
OBTW, the Oil Temp and Voltmeter gauge faces look great to me Steve. Can't speak to the temp range.
Steve,
I think the oil temp gauge should go up to at least 300 degrees. People that track their cars without oil coolers can easily hit 280+. Their current SCX gauge goes up to 300. http://www.marshallinstruments.com/products/5435.cfm Although that's probably not the stepper version. Are there different senders for the different versions?
I think the oil temp gauge should go up to at least 300 degrees. People that track their cars without oil coolers can easily hit 280+. Their current SCX gauge goes up to 300. http://www.marshallinstruments.com/products/5435.cfm Although that's probably not the stepper version. Are there different senders for the different versions?
Steve,
I think the oil temp gauge should go up to at least 300 degrees. People that track their cars without oil coolers can easily hit 280+. Their current SCX gauge goes up to 300. http://www.marshallinstruments.com/products/5435.cfm Although that's probably not the stepper version. Are there different senders for the different versions?
I think the oil temp gauge should go up to at least 300 degrees. People that track their cars without oil coolers can easily hit 280+. Their current SCX gauge goes up to 300. http://www.marshallinstruments.com/products/5435.cfm Although that's probably not the stepper version. Are there different senders for the different versions?
Steve
The Marshall oil pressure sender is a bit bigger and heavier than I imagined. No big deal per se, but I'm wondering about all of that sender mass hanging off the side of the tapless adapter and the stress it puts completely on the adapter's 3/8 NPT threads at the base of the oil filter.
I guess the tapless adapter is beefy enough to deal with the stress?
OBTW, the Oil Temp and Voltmeter gauge faces look great to me Steve. Can't speak to the temp range.
I guess the tapless adapter is beefy enough to deal with the stress?
OBTW, the Oil Temp and Voltmeter gauge faces look great to me Steve. Can't speak to the temp range.
That's why I like the CravenSpeed adapters; they are not likely to fail.
Installation
Looking for install instructions. 09 JCW installing a water temp (stepper) and boost gauge. Do not no of mini mechanic in Milwaukee other then dealer so not sure if I wiil install myself or my garage mechanic.
HELP
HELP
Besides the gauges what did you buy from Steve? This way someone can help you.
I am the one looking for install advise. Mechanical boost, stepper water, cravenspeed bracket a, cups, hotlink gen2, psiclone adapter.
When you install the gauges I would use the following three web sites for information as they will help you out, keep in mind that some of the products are slightly different so your going to have to apply some knowledge to the installation as you go about this project,
http://www.m7tuning.com/techinfo/ins...se-coupler.pdf
http://www.cravenspeed.com/index.php?categoryID=7
http://www.altaperformance.com/
Between the three of them you can see how they installed the water temp adapter, the boost pick up and the frame and cups on the tach. For the wire hook up for the stepper follow the instructions as I did not install the stepper but rather opted for the non stepper electrical gauge instead. Alta has a good write up on the web site for the gauge installation of wire routing the windshield wiper blade removal and installation is a little tricky just make sure you mark where your blades are prior to removing them it makes reinstallation easier. This is not a project your going to finish in one hour so when you start work on it I would recommend that it be with a weekend ahead of you. As for wiring on the gauges I did not hook up the white light as it drowns out the amber light. Some people might choose to have a switch that would allow them to go from white during the day to amber at night however I did not go this direction. For hook up use a meter and check your voltage prior to starting then once you get the front cover in front of the window over your battery is off and your ready to start routing your wires disconnect the battery until your connections are made. Lots of information is available on the WEB or more specifically on NAM as you go forward on this project. Look at your information then use what you like from each of the sites you go to. If it is something you would rather not tackle (I can understand as SRTech did my install) then contact SRTech and see about getting them installed at AMVIV 7 as Custom Mini Shop goes every year as a vendor.
http://www.m7tuning.com/techinfo/ins...se-coupler.pdf
http://www.cravenspeed.com/index.php?categoryID=7
http://www.altaperformance.com/
Between the three of them you can see how they installed the water temp adapter, the boost pick up and the frame and cups on the tach. For the wire hook up for the stepper follow the instructions as I did not install the stepper but rather opted for the non stepper electrical gauge instead. Alta has a good write up on the web site for the gauge installation of wire routing the windshield wiper blade removal and installation is a little tricky just make sure you mark where your blades are prior to removing them it makes reinstallation easier. This is not a project your going to finish in one hour so when you start work on it I would recommend that it be with a weekend ahead of you. As for wiring on the gauges I did not hook up the white light as it drowns out the amber light. Some people might choose to have a switch that would allow them to go from white during the day to amber at night however I did not go this direction. For hook up use a meter and check your voltage prior to starting then once you get the front cover in front of the window over your battery is off and your ready to start routing your wires disconnect the battery until your connections are made. Lots of information is available on the WEB or more specifically on NAM as you go forward on this project. Look at your information then use what you like from each of the sites you go to. If it is something you would rather not tackle (I can understand as SRTech did my install) then contact SRTech and see about getting them installed at AMVIV 7 as Custom Mini Shop goes every year as a vendor.
CravenSpeed is still holding up some orders because they provided the wrong mounting hardware. I should have the proper parts in a couple of days. Sorry for the delay. I will extend the group buy until the middle of October.
Steve
Steve
Lighting Wiring
Any chance on getting a definitive word from someone on the gauge lighting? There seems to be a split opinion in this thread as to whether the white and amber lighting is an either/or option from Marshall (with amber matching the OEM MINI gauges), or whether both lights are required to be connected simultaneously to match the OEM look.
The white wire is for white light at night. You most likely will not want this so just cut and seal the white lighting wire. You do not need to connect the white wire if all you want is amber light.
For amber lighting at night connect the orange wire to your 12V dash lighting circuit so that the gauge amber lighting turns on when you turn on your dash lighting/headlights.
The white wire is for white light at night. You most likely will not want this so just cut and seal the white lighting wire. You do not need to connect the white wire if all you want is amber light.
The white wire is for white light at night. You most likely will not want this so just cut and seal the white lighting wire. You do not need to connect the white wire if all you want is amber light.
. Anyone installed stepper motor gauges yet? If so how did you deal with the back lighting (this issue seems to be unique to the stepper motor Gauges). I see that Marshall sells a dimmer switch for stepper motor gauges (http://www.marshallinstruments.com/products/9235.cfm), but this would not be my preferred solution as I would like to use the stock dimmer switch to set the back lighting.

Steve
My install is underway, but I'm waiting to hear a response to rjb's lighting question prior to wiring everything up. If the instrument lighting supply doesn't adequately support the gauge lighting, I'd rather have an independent rheostat rather than have no adjustment at all.



