When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
PERFECT!
Totally awesome and so stoked that you found such a good match,
my thanks to you!
Hey there!....
Don't cut yourself short. As happenstance, I just noticed the Tesla's paint next to my open door.
I may have guessed the color match, but you hit the nail on the head when you shared the find for Steel Gray Metallic!
So, my hat's off to you, sir!!!
Originally Posted by Oldboy Speedwell
Gonna hafta order some of that stuff up as I think I'm going with anthracite for my Orranje GP rear panel replicas...
Cool...but what is it?
The image above looks like an interesting piece. Although, I have to admit ignorance...I have no clue as to what it is. Where does this GP rear panel fit/mount?
I have a GP2 rear seat delete and have been flipflopping yay/nay on the idea of going with the panels to match,
but finally just went ahead and grabbed 'em.
The Orranje replicas are made of fiberglass and they deleted the luggage bar hole.
Just ordered a couple of cans of Steel Gray Metallic, a couple cans of sandable primer, and assorted supplies from Automotive Touchup. Their gloss clear is on backorder so I'll have to find a different clear coat. Initially, I plan to do the dash, down tubes, and door cards. Eventually, I'll tackle the turn signal and wiper stalks.
Just ordered a couple of cans of Steel Gray Metallic, a couple can of sandable primer, and assorted supplies from Automotive Touchup. Their gloss clear is on backorder so I'll have to find a different clear coat. Initially, I plan to do the dash, down tubes, and door cards. Eventually, I'll tackle the turn signal and wiper stalks.
Hey - Awesome!
I'm glad you gave us a heads up 'cause I wanted to share one last tip about spraying the SGM.
I understand you currently don't have any factory anthracite interior and exact color OEM match wasn't so much a concern - however, If I were to do (repaint) it all over again- I would suggest spraying only 2-3 nice even coats of paint.
The clear coat will darken the color a bit.
I had laid down 4, nice, even, wet coats of paint and 4 wet coats of clear. Turned out pretty slick with no runs or orange peel. The only thing that bugs me is that the door panels appear darker than the OEM dash (even though the color is a dead match), when the doors are closed.
Under sunny conditions with the doors open - you'd never know the difference.
Let us know how it turns out.
Good luck and "spray" warm!
Thanks! So two coats of color. My current thinking is that I won't use the primer on dash panels since the current finish on them is in excellent condition. So cleaning, light sanding, IPA wipe, and tack cloth should be good. The door ovals are also in good condition but the handle Ys will need more serious sanding. So they will get a few coats of sandable primer before the color.
Thanks! So two coats of color. My current thinking is that I won't use the primer on dash panels since the current finish on them is in excellent condition. So cleaning, light sanding, IPA wipe, and tack cloth should be good. The door ovals are also in good condition but the handle Ys will need more serious sanding. So they will get a few coats of sandable primer before the color.
Yeah - sounds good.
Just another side note:
Be aware. My interior panels showed no indication of primer used from the factory. So if you hit a bare spot that is the substrate "plastic" , it may result in a bad spot in your paint.
When you use primer - no need to go heavy in an attempt to bury scratches. If you have any trouble spots/scratches/gouges - Apply a nice even light coat of primer first let dry and then skim over the scratches/defects with a little glazing putty. Let the putty flash off/cure. Then afterwards lightly sand and feather the putty and the primer w/400 grit. After that- lightly dust another coat of primer to obscure/seal the putty. When that's cured/dry, lightly wet sand.smooth to a final primed finish. Ideally you'll want a smooth, uniform color of primer with none or barely any glazing putty peeking through. Unsealed/un-primed glazing putty will suck the paint resulting in an obvious bad spot in your finish.
My apologies If I've come off sounding a bit officious. It's wasn't my intention.
Your approach sounds good!
@Here2Go Not at all. I appreciate the advice. Thank you! Seriously, it's extremely helpful. I have no experience with painting anything on cars so keep it coming until you get tired of being my tutor. Speaking of which, is there a glazing putty that you recommend?
@Here2Go Not at all. I appreciate the advice. Thank you! Seriously, it's extremely helpful. I have no experience with painting anything on cars so keep it coming until you get tired of being my tutor. Speaking of which, is there a glazing putty that you recommend?
- but it's seems pretty expensive ($overkill$) for only an occasional use or 1 time prep & paint for such a small job. You will most likely need very little - if any.
So for use with an off the shelf aerosol brand primer - I recommend; a 4.5oz tube of
glazing putty from a local auto parts, amazon, or Homeboy Depot would work just fine. I've used it all the time.
Be sure to apply layer (or spot prime), of primer first and then skim over the defects with glazing putty (if needed), after the primer had cured.... Just an example of how (glazing putty), it should look = A uniform surface after lightly sanding/feathering the glazing putty and initial primer application.
Spray a nice uniform layer of primer to conceal/seal the glazing putty an sand to a nice smooth finish..----> Ready for paint!
@dmath With regards to my post Title:
After leaving my former career, where every detail mattered - I am now often criticized for being too pedantic, "wordy" or long-winded.
Thank you for your patience and consideration for bearing with my idiosyncrasies.
I am more than happy to help where I can.
@Here2Go I also very much appreciate the advice, interaction, experimentation, and determination to get it right --- this sort of stuff, although it may seem silly to outside observers, is quite important to me and I place an extremely high value on lively discussions like this. The inherent beauty, in my eye, of the forum format is the ability to cultivate an intricate depth of detail, as well as to expand upon a topic with new insight, fresh perspective, updated application, or useful discoveries - and a thread like this really illustrates that aspect very well --- without your contributions it would be lesser.
:
I finally got around to ordering the Tesla paint, got it from R&E and it arrived very quickly in 3 days.
I do hope it is accurately correct, I haven't tested it yet but I do know that in such a case of custom mixings there are bound to be variance and deviation of colors.
I also hope that this one can is enough to cover the GP panels --- I'm planning on 2 coats, guess I'll find out soon enough as we're having a bit of a warm spell down here, so will try to tackle this job in the close coming days.
Last edited by Oldboy Speedwell; Oct 28, 2022 at 07:28 AM.
@Here2Go I also very much appreciate the advice, interaction, experimentation, and determination to get it right --- this sort of stuff, although it may seem silly to outside observers, is quite important to me and I place an extremely high value on lively discussions like this. The inherent beauty, in my eye, of the forum format is the ability to cultivate an intricate depth of detail, as well as to expand upon a topic with new insight, fresh perspective, updated application, or useful discoveries - and a thread like this really illustrates that aspect very well --- without your contributions it would be lesser.
Thank you for that well written, intelligent and open minded post.Those are very kind words and very poignant with respect to all that have contributed their knowledge without retort in effort to help others. I for one, have benefited from your knowledge,experience and keen insight. As well as others who have unselfishly shared the wealth of their expertise and innovation. I have to admit: I can only speak from my own experience and I may not often have the right answer...and perhaps a bit too anecdotal most of the time - What works for some may not work for others. I agree with you that a burgeoning exchange of ideas makes for a greater sense of community within the vast, virtual landscape of the internet world we now "live" in.
:
Originally Posted by Oldboy Speedwell
I finally got around to ordering the Tesla paint, got it from R&E and it arrived very quickly in 3 days. https://repaintsupply.com/tesla-pmng...grey-metallic/
I do hope it is accurately correct, I haven't tested it yet but I do know that in such a case of custom mixings there are bound to be variance and deviation of colors.
I also hope that this one can is enough to cover the GP panels --- I'm planning on 2 coats, guess I'll find out soon enough as we're having a bit of a warm spell down here, so will try to tackle this job in the close coming days.
I'm excited to see your results with the R&E steel gray metallic. 3day shipped and received sounds awesome compared to the 22days biting my nails down to the bone waiting and hoping that the wait would be worth it.
From my experience when shooting my 2wo door inserts - 4coats of paint/ea (overkill) - I went through the equivalent of a little over 1 can. So I think you'll be ok with the one can (2coats/ea) you have for both panels.
FWIW:
I purchased 2 cans of SGM (PMNG). I don't normally like to start a paint job (i.e: 2nd door insert), with a half used can of aerosol paint. No real rhyme or reason. That's just me. So each door insert were sprayed with a fresh can.
Albeit, as a result; I now have 2half cans of paint left over for small jobs or quick spot repairs and more accumulated "crap" to store.
Again, Thank you, and be sure to let us know how it turns out!
After a little travel and some other commitments, I finally got around to my first bit of anthracitization. I decided to start with the down tubes since they would be the easiest to replace if I really screwed up. Following the process outlined by @Here2Go , after thoroughly cleaning, I applied a light coat of primer and then spot applications of glazing putty. This was followed by sanding and three coats of primer, three coats of Tesla Steel Grey Metallic, and four coats of matte clear. I'm very happy with the results. The before/after photos are below. I'll get a better after shot outdoors in the sun -- the one here is indoors which makes it look much darker and doesn't show off the metallic glitter. Next up, either the dash pieces or the door panels.
I think the previous owner must have regularly rested his leg against the down tube. This side was much more beat up than the other.
In a previous thread I had posted a physical modification I had done to a cheap pair of imitation Balarama sunglasses.
Out of boredom, with a lot of free time on my hands - I modified a second pair.
In keeping with the Mini's interior color theme....
This time I decided to go anthracite.
Sprayed in Tesla Steel Grey Metallic (PMNG) and finished in a Krylon Satin clear top coat.
@Jonny Thanks for that link.
Although I'm pretty happy with the Tesla SGM (PMNG), I'm always on the hunt for good quality aerosols.
I've used SEM paints in the past and really liked the quality, results and endurance. The underlying fact that states the SEM 15303 Graphite has Flexiblecharacteristics sounds very appealing to me for other applications.
Thank you all for sharing the research, results and photos with us here.... Looks like we have a good match option with the Tesla Steel Gray Metallic (PMNG) !!
Tesla 2017 (and others) Model-S .
Originally Posted by Here2Go
Last edited by mountainhorse; Jan 18, 2023 at 08:53 PM.
So.... They also call the dark colored headliner option on the R-series... "Anthracite" .... but it is much closer to the 'panther" of the dashboard/door-card vinyl or "panther vinyl/leather' than this 'Anthracite' metallic paint color.
I'd like to ditch the 'busy-ness' of my R53 interior by making the color scheme inside simpler and run either top notch recovers in Panther with a tone/tone double stitch (like Katzkins)... or, contrasting OE-MINI Lounge Leather seats like redwood or satellite (keeping the interior all 'Panther'... like the R56 below) ..
Its a small car interior... and I'd like to stay away from the 'cute' add-ons and multiple colors.
This 'anthracite' color, for me, is a more desirable color vs body-color or silver or 'piano black-7" schemes ... but maybe getting a slightly metallic color mixed up that more closely matches the Panther color of the dash and the pillars would nice.
THE S4AA 'Headlining Anthracite' OE-MINI option in MY 2006 53.... For me, IMO, too much going on with all the diff colors of the dash, two-tone seats (silbergrau/grey).... Simplified would be better for me. The 'anthracite' metallic Tesla/Tamiya/MINI color is the best of the factory colors for my preferences.... but I think I could up the game a bit with a gloss-panther for the dash-face, DT's etc ...that would be a good match for the S4AA-pillar color.
Last edited by mountainhorse; May 19, 2023 at 08:26 PM.
I am following this thread as I am looking for a paint to match my 04 MC40 anthracite bbs wheels. Looks like the colour is close to my wheels but without the metallic.
You could contact Automotive Touchup to discuss the possibility of making some non-metallic paint. They should be able to tell you what effect that would have on the color. As an alternative, look in your area for an automotive paint specialist that can create a custom match using one of your wheels. I live in a not particularly populous area and there's such a business about 30 minutes away.
You could contact Automotive Touchup to discuss the possibility of making some non-metallic paint. They should be able to tell you what effect that would have on the color. As an alternative, look in your area for an automotive paint specialist that can create a custom match using one of your wheels. I live in a not particularly populous area and there's such a business about 30 minutes away.
Good suggestions. I have a bottle in the shopping cart at Automotive Touchup but have not placed it but have asked them about your suggestion. Will also see about the paint specialist.
I also live in a smaller city - Coeur d'Alene, so lucky enough to have a specialist drive over from Washingston a couple of times a week, so will meet with him as well.
UPDATE from Automotive TU: We cannot take the pearl/metallics out of the paint as it is part of the formula so the color may not be correct if it is taken out. A lot of the pearl toners have color to them, so it would probably not be the correct color without that.
We cannot take the pearl/metallics out of the paint as it is part of the formula so the color may not be correct if it is taken out. A lot of the pearl toners have color to them, so it would probably not be the correct color without that.
