Got pics?

 

Unfortunately, I don't have any digital pics of them.
I will say, I ended putting the little red cap on the sylvania bulbs... and while it wasn't the best match, it works for me.

One of these days I'll get off my lazy butt and take a bunch of pics of all the stuff I've done or had done.

 

pics soon. I want to take one tonight with the lights on.

 

Pictures, as promised. Cravenspeed brackets, Marshall gauges. Unplugged the tach, which is what I think made the checkengine light come on. Other cars reset it after a bit. see them here https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...19-2009-a.html

 

Sorry, I just figured out that the link in the previous post takes you to post #1 in that series. Here is the link for my actual post with the pictures in it. https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...9-post882.html

 

Very nice!!

- Did you use bracket "X" ou bracket "W"?
- Did you put cup caps on the back?
- Can you see the wires?
- What size cups do you use (52mm, 60mm or 66mm)

 

I used the Flexpod R56 and 52mm cups. The space you look through in the steering wheel is too small to see all of the larger gauge. The Marshall Gauges are so long that you cannot put the caps on. The back of the gauge is flush with the back of the pod. Since the back is flat, I painted it black. The gauges come with a plug with four wires in it for power, sender, white light, amber light. I put the wire in a black loom and painted the plug black. You can see them if you stand at the correct angle, but the wires are not obvious. I did have a clearance issue with the right gauge which I have talked to Kellen at Craven about. He is looking into it. I fixed it by adding a spacer under the attachment bolt. Easy, but not ideal

 

This is what I have been working on and completed this week. Marshall gauges in CravenSpeed Gauge Cups with a shortened Gauge Cup spacer(by 1/8") for the left cup and a complete new custom made spacer for the right cup with is 1/4" longer so the Cup did not interfere with the dashboard vent.

Check out the below link to see what I did and read what I did.

Stephen

http://www.mini4fun.info/09_MCa_Gaug...6_Photos..html

 

Very interesting read Soggy. I'm installing the same CravenSpeed Gauge setup, and was making a longer spacer for the right pod myself.
But why use the power& lightsource from the center console? I'm looking into using the wires which leads to the tachometer, close to the pods. The backlit from the tacho should be 12 volts and usable. Or this a dead end?

 

But why use the power& lightsource from the center console? I'm looking into using the wires which leads to the tachometer, close to the pods. The backlit from the tacho should be 12 volts and usable. Or this a dead end?[/quote]

I liked the idea of cigarette lighter for power since the computers and OBD are programmed to see different loads in that location so while I was there I took ALTA's suggestion of DSC for the lighting power; it worked.

We just took a trip to MMW in Penticton Canada and noticed that my Mini, an automatic, ran @ 218 on level ground just cruising but when I was lead footing it and climbing up the mountains the temperature gauge DROPPED to 180f or 190f!!! Even with the AC on!!!

S.

 

Go to the console. The tach leads are all funky voltages and stuff. We tried a TON and couldn't get anything that worked out. Best of luck!

 

Lol. Ok, I give up and will go the long but working route. I spend the night going trough the electrical schemes and didn't found anything to work with close to the steering column

 

Good for you! I know I had FAR to much time wrapped up in the hunt before I gave up and looked elsewhere.

 

Nice match. I was looking at Prosport as the were a good color match at night, but not as good in the day.

 

I agree they could be a bit cooler during the day match wise, but they certainly compliment the interior nicely and the night time is spot-on. Which for me is at least as much if not more important as any color variance is going to be glaring!

If I can help further, PLEASE let me know!

 

Well, I don't want the 60mm gauges. Actually I was very interested in the 45mm
gauges. Making my own moldings, ( I owned Fiberglass cars so so long, easy) I could put two side-by-side to the left of the wheel in/on the plastic trim, and one to the left. Volts, Water temp, and oil. Not sure if T or P. Boost seems not of much use in an automatic car. By being back away from the pod, the daytime miss-match would not seem as large.

I'll pull the trim pieces out when I get my car back from service this week and see how hard this will be. I am working on how to best add levers to the AC thumb rollers. Gad what a terrible ergonomic design.

 

I tried to find the wire to the tach. I gave up after about an hour and used the one from the cig. lighter. Be careful in there.
As to the temperature, I had the same experience with a trailer. There is another thread that addresses this. The short form is that the ECU opens the thermostat under high load and the engine temp drops to about 185.