I'm going to try to install the lights myself today, but I remember there being a post on how to make the lights turn on without having to high beam. Can anyone tell me how to do that or link me to the post that discussed this? Wish me luck...

 

First question is what wiring are you going to use. The factory wiring for US spec cars come with a switch to put the lights on standby. The Euro version is only wired in the high beam circuit with out the switch. If this is what you've got, all you need to do is cut the power wire going to the lights as it comes out of the relay and run the line into the cabin switch. From there run the line back to the wire going to the lights. You can use the switch to cut power on the driving lights anytime you want. The same system will work on non factory wiring jobs

Good luck!

 

My question is why would you want to do this????? Driving lights are just bigger, brighter, better versions of high beams; so if you are in conditions that need the driving lights, why not have the added brightness of the high beams as well (especially if you put some brighter bulbs in the highs so you get some real light out of them)?

The advantage of the factory setup is that you can turn on the driving lights and be able to flick them on and off with the high beams via the steering column stalk. This is just too handy on a dark country road where the occasional oncoming car dictates dimming of highs and driving lights. Imagine having to turn off both high beams and a separate driving light switch, then after the car passes, turning them both back on???!

The only time auxillary lights should be used without the high beams is in the case of fog lights. Fogs should always be used with low beams and only in FOGGY OR LOW VISIBILITY CONDITIONS! Only posers run around town in clear weather with auxillary lights on.

Sorry for the rant, but had to put in my $0.02

Cheers,

James

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I have the dealer installed rally lights and I Agree with what Mister_S says. The only time you would want or need them is in conjunction with your hi-beams. There is an auxiliary switch that turns the power to the rally lights on and off, but once on are controlled by the hi-beam control on your column.

 

>>I remember there being a post on how to make the lights turn on without having to high beam. Can anyone tell me how to do that <<

First off, sorry, I misread your post earlier. The way I described doing it will still have them in conjunction with the high beams. If you want them totally independent you can either tap into the low beam hotwire with a control switch in the car (they'll work only when you have power to the low beams). Or, you can locate a constant hot lead and tap into that with the same in car switch to turn them on and off whenever you want.

Personally, I recommend the intial way that I described yesterday or going with the US specced wiring kit. I've had driving lights configured all 3 ways, and for ease of use and convenience, it's the way to go.

 

I have the driving lights on my MCS wired in the standard way - w/highs, and I love it that way. I must say that the driving lights are flame throwers. I can't really have them on if there's anybody within 100 yards.

As for posers having aux lights on, I certainly don't consider myself a poser, but I do like seeing well. And, if having the fogs on ALL the time helps in that end, well - why not? Frankly, the fogs add some up-front light that the lows are missing IMHO.

..............yet another guys $.02

Geoff

 

my question is this..Can you, without blowing a fuse add 4 driving lights to the high beam circuit.
So let me get this right. all i need to do is splice the high beam circuit to the driving lights . then i do not have to worry about running wires through the fire wall.
why does this sound so easy???? ther must be a catch

 

>>my question is this..Can you, without blowing a fuse add 4 driving lights to the high beam circuit.
>>So let me get this right. all i need to do is splice the high beam circuit to the driving lights . then i do not have to worry about running wires through the fire wall.
>>why does this sound so easy???? ther must be a catch

Don't know about adding 4 directly into the system. I do know there's been plenty of instances where 2 have been added that way. I've owned 3 different cars wired like that with no detrimental effects at all. It's generally not recommended because most places say you should have a relay in there to help protect the wiring. Also, if you run light covers you have to keep in mind that you can't use your high beams unless you remove the covers. The lights will melt them.

 

Well the factory kit finally showed up from over in merry old England (from MiniMania.com, a lot cheaper than MiniMadness.com, there USA counterpart). I am going to give this a shot probablly next weekend. Any last hind-sight tips on self installing the factory driving lights (other than a bottle of valium and a 5th of Jack on hand to ease the frustration and pain)?

Will post before and after pics once installed.

Peace out. Motor On.

 

I still haven't had my lights done, theyre just on for decoration for now. I tried and failed and will activate them when I got $400 to burn. Right now, I'll spend my money on an exhaust and intake with that money. Let me know how it goes, GOOD LUCK! you will definitely need it.

Some advice, hmmmm.... the instructions on the net didn't do me justice for my 2003 build. those instructions were for 2002 models im assuming. Sooooo... again GOOD LUCK

 

I've installed the Mini-spares light wiring on mine and can give you some helpful hints, including installation of a switch to allow them to be turned off when you don't want them on while running the high beams.

The biggest problem I had running the interior wiring was trying to feed the harness behind the A/C unit. I gave up after a couple tries, got some extra wire to extend the harness and ran it right behind the radio. When I did this I made sure my power line reached over to mount the switch.

If you pull the glove box out, it makes it easier running the wires and getting to the BC-1 unit.

If you want diagrams, email me at moorlockx@aol.com and I can send them on Saturday(the 5th) when I get off vacation.