Excellent write up. Did you take any pictures along the way?

 

Thanks so much for the extra commentary, CharlieB, getting ready to jump into this myself, hopefully this week. Good things to know and plan for.I wasn't in a hurry at the get-go, but as time went on I weighed that option, certainly. My parts finally arrived on April 12th - 5 full weeks (and 4 phone calls - one on hold for 28 minutes, but NO promised emails) from the order date. I was 'advised' by the company that the guy who handled the OEM ordering was no longer w/ the company, and they were trying to recitify the shortcomings I experienced . During the 'process' I was told the parts were coming from Germany. Then England. Then the local MINI dealer. Then China (and, yah, I sorta lost it at that point). FWIW, they were shipped April 5th, so a full week to get across country - that's the way to make up for crappy customer service: ship it the slowest way possible <facepalm> , but, meh, they're here. /rant

I'll try to take some pic.s and post up some commentary after the install...

 

Please forgive if I'm on the wrong thread, but I have to raise the BS flag.

I was told (by an Indi-Mini shop) that the Mini flywheel is found to be trashed the majority of the time when the trans is opened during clutch replacement. I'm on my second Mini S and haven't heard of this issue. Is this true or just an effort to extract more $$$?

Can anyone confirm this? Way? Alta? Jan? Peter? Anyone?!

 

I purchased a complete Valeo solid flywheel-clutch kit for my rebuild. When I got to the original flywheel it looked OK. However, my clutch expert (Felton Clutch in Chattanooga) advised me that the dual mass flywheel in the MCS can not be resurfaced. I am not sure exactly why this is the case, but there are many references that agree with this. Might have something to do with the springs and other stuff built into the flywheel. In any case, mine looked fine. But I never had the "chewbacka" noise that many report from these flywheels. The entire flywheel-clutch kit cost less than just the dual-mass flywheel, so I do not see any reason to go back to the OEM flywheel.

 

CharlieB - Thanks for the response, how is the Valeo doing? Any noise?

 

I have about 3000 miles on the new Vaelo clutch. No noise. Easy to shift. Working great. I would consider it a perfect replacement for the OEM flywheel and clutch. It came with a new set of bolts, throw out bearing and everything except the alignment tool.

 

That's good to hear.
Thanx

BTW - you do mean Valeo not Vaelo right?

 

Hello my name is Marco and my clutch just went out how much did u pay at steves for the clutch replacement? Thanks

 

I bought a replacement clutch and alignment tool at pep boys for approx $175.00 I did the swap in a tent in my driveway and it was an intense experience to say the least. Also you should know that the hydraulic fluid is propriety oil that Mini charges $45.00 per pint for. You can search the web and find an aftermarket oil for 1/2 that. I found the MINI maintenance manual valuable as well as the content in this forum. Good Luck hope this helps.

 

huveo - i beleive my main seal has blown, and i am about to undertake the task of removing my tranny, and i have a couple questions for you.
did you get these from the dealer "OEM engine support bracket suspended by an upper engine support"?
and special tools required?

 

You can get a engine support bar from Harbor Freight (#96524, $60) which performs the same function as the much more expensive OEM bar. You might also find similar bars at Northern Tool and other sites. But the Harbor Freight item worked for me.

 

I had a question but answered it before anyone else.

3 weeks trying to change this c/pp/fw, and if it wasn't for bad luck, I'd have no luck at all ... <grrr>

Stay tuned for rant, coming soon to a forum near you...

 

1) Did you confirm you have the correct disc/spline count etc. I always slide a disc on input shaft before I mount it to flywheel and pressure plate for piece of mind. If you spent time aligning the clutch disc as you torqued down the pressure plate bolts then it should go in with a bit of crank turning and wiggling. Have you placed long brass punches/drifts through dowel bolt holes and tried to ease trans back and forth a tad with somebody on crank pulley rotating it?

Jeremy

 

Oh, it was MUCH more autrocious than that - Gonna do a seperate post detailing all my "pitfalls" (including naming names) - but it's now 5 weeks and a day since I started taking it apart and it's still on jackstands...

 

Terrible to hear. Get er done and back on the road!

Jeremy

 

Something helpful I did learn:
When trying to get the input-shaft splines lined up w/ those in the clutch disc, I used a pair of long nose (~6" jaw) needle-nose pliers - look through the hole where the axles and you'll see a pin/shaft inside, across the trans outputs; engaged a gear and could rotate the shaft with the needle-noses by turning from that pin. Easier to do (imho) than having an extra person trying to turn the crank for you, you can turn it while trying to engage the splines and actually feel it stop turning when it's lined up (turns very easily)...

FWIW: My "Clutch Change From Hell" post ("How NOT To") > https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ow-not-to.html

 

1. I did not need the special BMW tool to hold the engine. Using a long bolt through the engine support stand (tool) chain into the engine block (where the OEM tool would normally bolt onto) works well enough. (The tool seems impossible to find and expensive as well.)

2. I did not have to remove the shift cable bracket, black plastic box, to pull the transmission. The torx bolts are thread locked and the heads will strip. Rather, just remove the shift cables...

3. I had a heck of a time removing the RH axle from the hub to replace the axle boots. Ended up removing the rotor; I managed in a few hours with a gas wrench (torch), BFH and a snap-on 2-point press. I *highly* recommend putting on anti-seize compound on the axle splines that go into the hub if you get the chance

4. When re-installing the transmission: A large screw driver inserted into the differential will rotate the input shaft easily enough when twisted. I also used a 1/4" extension through the rear engine dowel to help align everything up, as the transmission doesn't have a clear "bottom".

Question: While removing the transmission mount a curved plastic blue square piece dropped out on the LH side. I have no idea where it goes....any help appreciated (see photo)...

I do appreciate all the help from the previous posters (especially CharlieB and K-huevo). Most helpful! Thank you.

Drew

 

Drew, That funky blue plastic piece slides into a void in the OEM trans mount. I had to remove it when I retrofitted Powerflex transmission bushings.

Updated part numbers for some of the MINI Tools:
shift cable tool 83300494345
Clutch alignment tool 6spd 83300494261
Engine lift bracket (bolts to back of head) 83300493987
protector sleeve for installing rear crank seal 83300493980
Drift for installing rear crank seal 83300493981
Unirex grease for T/out brg 83239416138 ( this is often on national back order. BMW has also approved use of Dow Corning Molykote BR2 grease. Easy to get & runs about $9 from McMaster-Carr)

FWIW I think the original post & subsequent thread have to rank in the top ten for most informative posts on any MINI forum. A great example of what a forum can be.

 

OK, I found a picture of the blue piece. (http://www.billswebspace.com/mcs.htm) It goes under the rubber bushing *inside* the transmission mount. Since I'll probably be pulling the transmission again, I take the chance to do it right [again].

Update: I used the Valeo clutch kit and I highly recommend it...drives great. I also replaced and greased all the clutch engagement parts, bushings and it shifts like butter.

Update 2: looks like the input shaft is leaking (ouch!) Even though the existing seal was just fine, I decided to replace it [since I was there] and looks like I may have buggered it up....