How To R53 Drivetrain :: Oil Catch Can Install How-To!
#1
R53 Drivetrain :: Oil Catch Can Install How-To!
Hi Motorers,
This morning, I went to BahamaBart's place and he installed my Alta oil catch can (OCC). I took some pictures of the process and since there is no how-to concerning OCC, I thought it might be a good idea to do one...
First step, install the oil catch can.
Second step, remove the intercooler and get ready to cut some hoses! Here are where the hoses should connect:
You will need to cut some stock hoses and use some parts of them... Here is a picture of which hoses to cut and what parts to keep for install:
The output hose from the catch can connects directly to the air intake hose... You will see a small hose connected to the big intake hose... Simply cut 2-3 inches of that hose and use the fitting supplied with the OCC to connect the hose to the OCC.
The input hose form the catch can is a little more involving. Check the picture above to see what to cut and where to connect it. (Green "Paint" lines)
This picture shows the stock hose cut and ready to be connected to the "input" side of the OCC.
This is the "T" fitting. From one side it connects to the OCC, and the other side connects to the hose on the picture above:
This is what it looks like once completed!
A special thanks to BahamaBart for his help!! He was sick and did the install anyway!
btw Bart, I got the GRS intercooler air diverter installed and it fits great! I only had to cut a small amount but it really fits great! Thanks a lot for the gift!!
This morning, I went to BahamaBart's place and he installed my Alta oil catch can (OCC). I took some pictures of the process and since there is no how-to concerning OCC, I thought it might be a good idea to do one...
First step, install the oil catch can.
Second step, remove the intercooler and get ready to cut some hoses! Here are where the hoses should connect:
You will need to cut some stock hoses and use some parts of them... Here is a picture of which hoses to cut and what parts to keep for install:
The output hose from the catch can connects directly to the air intake hose... You will see a small hose connected to the big intake hose... Simply cut 2-3 inches of that hose and use the fitting supplied with the OCC to connect the hose to the OCC.
The input hose form the catch can is a little more involving. Check the picture above to see what to cut and where to connect it. (Green "Paint" lines)
This picture shows the stock hose cut and ready to be connected to the "input" side of the OCC.
This is the "T" fitting. From one side it connects to the OCC, and the other side connects to the hose on the picture above:
This is what it looks like once completed!
A special thanks to BahamaBart for his help!! He was sick and did the install anyway!
btw Bart, I got the GRS intercooler air diverter installed and it fits great! I only had to cut a small amount but it really fits great! Thanks a lot for the gift!!
#3
Here is another way of setting up the OCC.
Picture - diagram compliments DrPhillGandini.
This alternate method allows better crank case venting. There were 2 threads discussing the OCC & the merrit of the 2 instilation methods. This is the better of the 2 threads:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=72959
Picture - diagram compliments DrPhillGandini.
This alternate method allows better crank case venting. There were 2 threads discussing the OCC & the merrit of the 2 instilation methods. This is the better of the 2 threads:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=72959
#4
I'm looking forward to that Dyno!! Hopefully, I'll have my injectors installed... If DHL doesn't lose the package for a second time
Thanks again for your time $ the GRS diverter!!
#7
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#8
#9
catch can routing debate ends here.
i went the DIY route, as i typically do. but, i did not want to re-route the breather lines. so, i just installed two catch cans, one on each line. guess what... YOU ONLY NEED ONE! and you only need it on the breather hose that goes from the pcv to the supercharger. the other hose has absolutely NO oil in it. it breathes IN, not OUT. want proof? here-->
these "cans" (i used oil separators from lowes, cheap and very effective) have been on my car for over a year. in that time i have covered over 25k miles. the can on the pcv hose get emptied about once or twice a month (it's pretty small and i don't let it fill more than one inch). the can on the other hose has no oil AT ALL. the reason the filter is dark is because i swapped it with the other one about 5 months ago, before that it was perfectly white, like it had not even seen the slightest mist of oil.
this is the one on the pcv side:
and this is the one on the intake side:
so what does this mean? it means you don't have to tee anything off or change the operation of anything. just leave the other hose alone and put the can on the pcv hose. done.
Q.E.D.
these "cans" (i used oil separators from lowes, cheap and very effective) have been on my car for over a year. in that time i have covered over 25k miles. the can on the pcv hose get emptied about once or twice a month (it's pretty small and i don't let it fill more than one inch). the can on the other hose has no oil AT ALL. the reason the filter is dark is because i swapped it with the other one about 5 months ago, before that it was perfectly white, like it had not even seen the slightest mist of oil.
this is the one on the pcv side:
and this is the one on the intake side:
so what does this mean? it means you don't have to tee anything off or change the operation of anything. just leave the other hose alone and put the can on the pcv hose. done.
Q.E.D.
Last edited by sonichris; 10-06-2009 at 03:45 PM. Reason: moved image links
#10
#12
DarkMini was good enough to post pictures of the instilation. The Alta instructions are quite dark & can be hard to understand.
The 2 pictures ( the blue car is mine ), thumbs, post 3, are the alternate method. The first thread on this issue was closed because of differing opinions on the "how to". I believe the alternate is the best way as it allows for better crank case venting ( as intended by the OEM ).
There are 2 ways to install the OCC. What ever the installer wants to do is fine by me.
#13
first, i do appreciate that fact that DarkMini did go through the trouble to post pictures, that's what this community is for. my point is why post a routing method that is unnecessary and have that as the official how-to, when the better method is simpler and allows the system to work as designed? shouldn't THAT be the how-to?
#14
first, i do appreciate that fact that DarkMini did go through the trouble to post pictures, that's what this community is for. my point is why post a routing method that is unnecessary and have that as the official how-to, when the better method is simpler and allows the system to work as designed? shouldn't THAT be the how-to?
That said, for those that want the offical Alta method... Go ahead. There is merit to their instilation.
Post 3 is the alternate way. Several people, including you and myself, don't happen to agree that the Alta way is the best way.
The original post on the subject got ugly, then locked. The second post was more give & take. There was a third post that ( you would need to find all posts - OCC ) that explained the alternate method but was never a sticky.
Bottom line, There is a choice.
#16
#17
i got everything from home depot or lowes, except for the fuel hose, which i sourced from work.
i got the husky brand filter from home depot, it's only $12.00. the lowes version is $20.00. then i just got two 90 degree threaded air fittings, two straight fittings (threaded on one side, barbed on the other), one air fitting barbed on both sides (to attach to hose going to supercharger) and a 90 degree brass fitting for the bend at the pcv valve. i believe that last piece i sourced from the plumbing dept. grab some teflon tape and a few small hose clamps, and that's it.
a trick i use to make sure hoses stay put is to have a can of carb cleaner handy when putting this together. first measure all the hoses. then for final assembly, spray carb cleaner into the hose end and slide over the connector. it acts as a lubricant at first, then it will dry in about 5 seconds and actually act like an adhesive.
i got the husky brand filter from home depot, it's only $12.00. the lowes version is $20.00. then i just got two 90 degree threaded air fittings, two straight fittings (threaded on one side, barbed on the other), one air fitting barbed on both sides (to attach to hose going to supercharger) and a 90 degree brass fitting for the bend at the pcv valve. i believe that last piece i sourced from the plumbing dept. grab some teflon tape and a few small hose clamps, and that's it.
a trick i use to make sure hoses stay put is to have a can of carb cleaner handy when putting this together. first measure all the hoses. then for final assembly, spray carb cleaner into the hose end and slide over the connector. it acts as a lubricant at first, then it will dry in about 5 seconds and actually act like an adhesive.
Last edited by sonichris; 01-14-2007 at 10:31 AM. Reason: more info added
#18
a trick i use to make sure hoses stay put is to have a can of carb cleaner handy when putting this together. first measure all the hoses. then for final assembly, spray carb cleaner into the hose end and slide over the connector. it acts as a lubricant at first, then it will dry in about 5 seconds and actually act like an adhesive.
#19
a couple things for people wanting to do the DIY method. the filter will fill up pretty quick. if you don't empty it often enough, when the oil reaches the filter it wll start to suck the oil back into the engine. i empty it twice a month (usually has about 3/4 inch of oil in it) and i average about 25k miles a year, so YMMV.
to empty the filter, i do not recommend unscrewing the bowl. there is a thin o-ring that you will have a hard time with. i just use a pocket screw driver to hold the valve open and let the oil drip out.
to empty the filter, i do not recommend unscrewing the bowl. there is a thin o-ring that you will have a hard time with. i just use a pocket screw driver to hold the valve open and let the oil drip out.
#20
a couple things for people wanting to do the DIY method. the filter will fill up pretty quick. if you don't empty it often enough, when the oil reaches the filter it wll start to suck the oil back into the engine. i empty it twice a month (usually has about 3/4 inch of oil in it) and i average about 25k miles a year, so YMMV.
to empty the filter, i do not recommend unscrewing the bowl. there is a thin o-ring that you will have a hard time with. i just use a pocket screw driver to hold the valve open and let the oil drip out.
to empty the filter, i do not recommend unscrewing the bowl. there is a thin o-ring that you will have a hard time with. i just use a pocket screw driver to hold the valve open and let the oil drip out.
Anyway, I have a similar filter on my plasma cutter. The best, I do mean best, way to drain the bowl is as you say.
#21
I'm glad we got this thread all sorted out, finally. There are at 4 threads on the OCC, and as Steve rightly points out, I started the one referenced in post #3 here since the previous one got ugly...
Anyway, it's not our choice what becomes a sticky---the moderators do that, and I think if you ask nicely, the thread referenced here could become *the* sticky, but it's up to moderators.
cheers,
Anyway, it's not our choice what becomes a sticky---the moderators do that, and I think if you ask nicely, the thread referenced here could become *the* sticky, but it's up to moderators.
cheers,
#23
I'm glad we got this thread all sorted out, finally. There are at 4 threads on the OCC, and as Steve rightly points out, I started the one referenced in post #3 here since the previous one got ugly...
Anyway, it's not our choice what becomes a sticky---the moderators do that, and I think if you ask nicely, the thread referenced here could become *the* sticky, but it's up to moderators.
cheers,
Anyway, it's not our choice what becomes a sticky---the moderators do that, and I think if you ask nicely, the thread referenced here could become *the* sticky, but it's up to moderators.
cheers,
Well, I guess you need 4 to get a sticky. This ones quite pleasent.
#24
All I have to say is..... go with the alternate routing!!!!! I have done both and the results with the ALTA routing were not pretty..... I am not directly blaming the incident on the OCC or the original routing..... but it sure is weird. Anyway, I have the more simple routing method on now and the MINI runs awesome....
FWIW look at the attached thumbnail
FWIW look at the attached thumbnail
#25
yeah, i agree. some people forget, or don't really know, what the pcv system does. the letters stand for "positive crankcase ventilation". what that means is that there is a constant flow of fresh air through the crankcase. under most conditions, the air enters through the valve cover intake (the tube connected pre-throttle portion of the intake) and exits through the pcv valve. now then, if the inlet and outlet are both hooked together, how is the crankcase going to breathe? that completely screws up the airflow through the crankcase.
ok, i'll shut up now, i promise.
ok, i'll shut up now, i promise.