How To Maintenance :: Changing REAR Brake Pads for Beginners!
#176
Hi all my rears are in need of replacement and when I came here to look sadly see that most of the pictures have died. Used the front brake write up to do my fronts last year. I found these links thought I would share
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm
and a video
I also have a question anyone know the minimum thickness of the rear disks? I think I recall 10mm a validation would be greatly appreciated before I order parts
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm
and a video
I also have a question anyone know the minimum thickness of the rear disks? I think I recall 10mm a validation would be greatly appreciated before I order parts
#178
does anyone know at what level of pad the brake sensors get activated? I have 5mm of pad left on my rears and it seems like a lot of pad to be left for the sensor to have broken.
Disks are between 8 and 9 mm
fronts brakes were done last year and look fantastic regarding pad and rotor wear.
Thanks
Disks are between 8 and 9 mm
fronts brakes were done last year and look fantastic regarding pad and rotor wear.
Thanks
#180
#182
#183
Anyone have issues with squeaking with light brake application after changing rotors and pads? I'm not sure where I went wrong. Greased the pins that blog the calipers, greases the ears of all the pads (ebc green stuff) made sure the rear inner pads were properly clipped around the piston and I made sure I torqued the calipers down. Any thoughts?
#184
Hello Friends,
Bringing this thread back from some inactivity. I am trying to replace the rear brake pads, but there is not enough clearance to put the harbor freight caliper wind back tool to compress the piston. Am I doing something wrong or is there a trick to it ? btw, this is an 05 R53. Thanks
Bringing this thread back from some inactivity. I am trying to replace the rear brake pads, but there is not enough clearance to put the harbor freight caliper wind back tool to compress the piston. Am I doing something wrong or is there a trick to it ? btw, this is an 05 R53. Thanks
#186
you are the man! I have been struggling with this crap since Sunday. rented wind back tool from the local chain stores. didn't work, then I thought the HFT tool is the one. guess it only introduces more problem. The simple long needle nose pliers trick did it in in less than 30 seconds!! Thanks a Bunch!
#187
you are the man! I have been struggling with this crap since Sunday. rented wind back tool from the local chain stores. didn't work, then I thought the HFT tool is the one. guess it only introduces more problem. The simple long needle nose pliers trick did it in in less than 30 seconds!! Thanks a Bunch!
#188
I used a small long nose vice grip in conjunction with a wood clamp that I modified so the end that tightened would fit into one of the 4 round hole in the piston face. Small amount of pressure and then rotate the piston with the vise grip.
Last edited by Whine not Walnuts; 09-27-2017 at 03:25 AM.
#189
we think the same
Amazing. My method is nearly identical. By tightening my Bessy clamp gently it overcomes the hydraulic pressure. That make it very easy to turn the parking brake mechanism. Gentle and patience do it. If you tighten the clamp too much you are binding the mechanism making very hard to turn with the needle nose.
#190
That is how I did mine too. Some will jump in and said it is a waste of time because they got lucky in buying the right tool. Problem is there is no telling which tool works and which doesn't. I used the needle nose for I careless to run to the store and take my chances.
#192
Look on eBay for the Laser 3940 brake caliper rewind tool. Only eBay sellers in the U.K. seem to have them but I ordered one from a seller who was willing to ship internationally and it works great. Highly recommended.
Last edited by valvashon; 09-27-2017 at 04:28 AM. Reason: missing letter
#193
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