How To Maintenance :: Changing REAR Brake Pads for Beginners!

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Old Feb 7, 2014 | 07:46 AM
  #176  
Sidewalksam's Avatar
Sidewalksam
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From: right here
Hi all my rears are in need of replacement and when I came here to look sadly see that most of the pictures have died. Used the front brake write up to do my fronts last year. I found these links thought I would share

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm
and a video



I also have a question anyone know the minimum thickness of the rear disks? I think I recall 10mm a validation would be greatly appreciated before I order parts
 
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Old Feb 7, 2014 | 01:26 PM
  #177  
Gil-galad's Avatar
Gil-galad
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From: Decorah, IA
Originally Posted by opticspen
cannot see the pictures, anyone had luck or anyone who knows the trick? thanks!
Originally Posted by DeaconR
OctaneGuy, I used your article on how to do the front brakes on my Mini--it was great. Ready to do the back brakes and was very glad to find your post. I'm having trouble getting the images to display. I bet I'm missing something obvious. Any advice? Thanks
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post3819331
 
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Old Feb 8, 2014 | 10:57 AM
  #178  
Sidewalksam's Avatar
Sidewalksam
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From: right here
does anyone know at what level of pad the brake sensors get activated? I have 5mm of pad left on my rears and it seems like a lot of pad to be left for the sensor to have broken.

Disks are between 8 and 9 mm

fronts brakes were done last year and look fantastic regarding pad and rotor wear.

Thanks
 
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Old Feb 8, 2014 | 12:24 PM
  #179  
ghas's Avatar
ghas
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Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Santa Barbara, CA
Not sure as my sensor was never activated even though the inside pads got down to 3.6mm before I changed them. Outside pads were 4.7mm.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2014 | 02:52 PM
  #180  
Sidewalksam's Avatar
Sidewalksam
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From: right here
Originally Posted by ghas
Not sure as my sensor was never activated even though the inside pads got down to 3.6mm before I changed them. Outside pads were 4.7mm.
thank you this is helpful It was hard to spy the inside pad so I am not 100% sure of its thickness.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2014 | 06:39 PM
  #181  
MacGuruTX's Avatar
MacGuruTX
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From: Fled Cali for Vegas
OctaneGuy's how to WITH the pics is still on another mini enthusiast web site. Interestingly this one wipes out the name if you try to post it.
 
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Old Jun 28, 2014 | 06:22 PM
  #182  
MacGuruTX's Avatar
MacGuruTX
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From: Fled Cali for Vegas
squeak AFTER releasing the brake?

Ok, I don't remember this occurring the last time I did the brakes. After I take my foot off the brake, i'm getting a squeak/squeal up until about 25mph, then it goes away.

What would cause this? Did I not apply enough lube in the correct locations?
 
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Old Jun 28, 2014 | 07:35 PM
  #183  
RHcoopers's Avatar
RHcoopers
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Anyone have issues with squeaking with light brake application after changing rotors and pads? I'm not sure where I went wrong. Greased the pins that blog the calipers, greases the ears of all the pads (ebc green stuff) made sure the rear inner pads were properly clipped around the piston and I made sure I torqued the calipers down. Any thoughts?
 
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Old Sep 26, 2017 | 11:58 AM
  #184  
socalr53's Avatar
socalr53
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Joined: May 2014
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Hello Friends,
Bringing this thread back from some inactivity. I am trying to replace the rear brake pads, but there is not enough clearance to put the harbor freight caliper wind back tool to compress the piston. Am I doing something wrong or is there a trick to it ? btw, this is an 05 R53. Thanks
 
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Old Sep 26, 2017 | 12:01 PM
  #185  
GoThingNC's Avatar
GoThingNC
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Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Raleigh, NC
I used really long needle nose pliers (about 12 inches long) and turned the piston clockwise while applying lots of pressure.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2017 | 12:46 PM
  #186  
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socalr53
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Originally Posted by GoThingNC
I used really long needle nose pliers (about 12 inches long) and turned the piston clockwise while applying lots of pressure.
you are the man! I have been struggling with this crap since Sunday. rented wind back tool from the local chain stores. didn't work, then I thought the HFT tool is the one. guess it only introduces more problem. The simple long needle nose pliers trick did it in in less than 30 seconds!! Thanks a Bunch!
 
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Old Sep 26, 2017 | 01:31 PM
  #187  
pnwR53S's Avatar
pnwR53S
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From: soggy pnw
Originally Posted by socalr53
you are the man! I have been struggling with this crap since Sunday. rented wind back tool from the local chain stores. didn't work, then I thought the HFT tool is the one. guess it only introduces more problem. The simple long needle nose pliers trick did it in in less than 30 seconds!! Thanks a Bunch!
That is how I did mine too. Some will jump in and said it is a waste of time because they got lucky in buying the right tool. Problem is there is no telling which tool works and which doesn't. I used the needle nose for I careless to run to the store and take my chances.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2017 | 04:01 PM
  #188  
Whine not Walnuts's Avatar
Whine not Walnuts
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From: Fuquay Varina, NC
I used a small long nose vice grip in conjunction with a wood clamp that I modified so the end that tightened would fit into one of the 4 round hole in the piston face. Small amount of pressure and then rotate the piston with the vise grip.
 

Last edited by Whine not Walnuts; Sep 27, 2017 at 03:25 AM.
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Old Sep 26, 2017 | 04:18 PM
  #189  
pnwR53S's Avatar
pnwR53S
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From: soggy pnw
we think the same

Originally Posted by r53coop
I used a small long nose vice grip in conjunction with a wood clamp that I modified so the end that tightened would fit into one of the 4 round hole in the piston face. Small amount of pressure and then rotate the piston with the vie grip.


Amazing. My method is nearly identical. By tightening my Bessy clamp gently it overcomes the hydraulic pressure. That make it very easy to turn the parking brake mechanism. Gentle and patience do it. If you tighten the clamp too much you are binding the mechanism making very hard to turn with the needle nose.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2017 | 11:12 PM
  #190  
cadfael_tex's Avatar
cadfael_tex
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Joined: May 2007
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From: Lubbock, TX
Originally Posted by pnwR53S
That is how I did mine too. Some will jump in and said it is a waste of time because they got lucky in buying the right tool. Problem is there is no telling which tool works and which doesn't. I used the needle nose for I careless to run to the store and take my chances.
Besides long nose pliers, who has had a tool that worked? Also, how long does the needle nose need to be?
 
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Old Sep 27, 2017 | 03:26 AM
  #191  
Whine not Walnuts's Avatar
Whine not Walnuts
OVERDRIVE
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From: Fuquay Varina, NC
The nice thing about a long nose vise grip is that you can adjust the opening width to fit the hole in the piston and then just turn.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2017 | 04:27 AM
  #192  
valvashon's Avatar
valvashon
5th Gear
15 Year Member
Joined: Jun 2009
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From: West Seattle
Look on eBay for the Laser 3940 brake caliper rewind tool. Only eBay sellers in the U.K. seem to have them but I ordered one from a seller who was willing to ship internationally and it works great. Highly recommended.
 

Last edited by valvashon; Sep 27, 2017 at 04:28 AM. Reason: missing letter
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Old Sep 27, 2017 | 07:26 AM
  #193  
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agranger
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I used to have the Harbor Freight tool. The pins weren't in perfect alignment with the MINI holes, but it worked. The tool itself was a POS and I had to tape some of the punch pins in place to keep them where they were supposed to be, but for the $30 I paid for it (on sale) it was fine.
 
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