How To SZL Module Reset (post clutch change) Solved
Hi
I know this is an old thread but thought i would ask anyway, just switched the subframe in my mini cooper d 2008 but having an issue with dynamic stability lights etc, tried this reset with my Autel Ap200 but when i undo the pinch bolt and turn the wheel the angle doesn’t change. Tried a new Szl assembly (with wiper stalks and clock spring ) but this doesn’t change the issue. Any ideas on what’s wrong or what i’m doing wrong ?
Thanks
I know this is an old thread but thought i would ask anyway, just switched the subframe in my mini cooper d 2008 but having an issue with dynamic stability lights etc, tried this reset with my Autel Ap200 but when i undo the pinch bolt and turn the wheel the angle doesn’t change. Tried a new Szl assembly (with wiper stalks and clock spring ) but this doesn’t change the issue. Any ideas on what’s wrong or what i’m doing wrong ?
Thanks
[ after many frustrating hours, a new clock spring/SZL/wiper module, and way too much money, I discovered a tiny caveat in a service manual. The old school mechanic in me assumed I stretched or snapped the clock spring when I forgot to run the seatbelt thru the steering wheel. That was an unnecessary $600 assumption. Once the SZL is disconnected, it loses communication to the main computer. The ONLY way to re-establish cons is to have the module programmed to the car. The handheld units CANNOT do this. I tried a couple local "certified" shops and the BMW dealership but ended up having to take it to the closest MINI dealership over 200 miles away.. Hard lesson learned, but unless you have the full MINI software, when it comes to communication issues, take it to the dealership. They charged me 0.5 hours and I drove away happy as a clam.
You are my hero. I bought a Mini with a rusted subframe. I replaced all the steering stuff and the subframe. There were no issues during the test drive, but after the repair it lit up like a Christmas tree, and the turn signals didn't cancel. It all makes sense now.
Fixed without a scan tool
I dropped my subframe to replace it and must have rotated the steering wheel 360 degrees. After reading posts here I had the same symptoms. My turn signals didn't "auto off" after a turn. That's the tell. I disconnected the wheel from the rack, took a guess at a direction, and rotated the wheel 360 degrees, Key on, Engine off, put the left turn signal on, rotated 90 degrees left then back and the signal turned off. Right signal on, 90 degrees right and back and the signal went off. I reattached the column to the rack and the codes are gone and the signals work as they should.
Excellent ... nothing more frustrating than following the technical data and then whatever you're working on doesn't work properly. Over the years, I've contacted Bentley and Hayes; even talked to their reps at SEMA (I'm usually in the Foxwell booth) to get the manual updated, but they don't seem interested.
2 days ago, I had a friends 2014 Ford Edge in the shop with an AC issue (insufficient cooling). The gauges showed he had a restriction in the high side of the system, so I pulled up the Ford procedure for changing the receiver/dryer (desiccant bag). The book has you remove the radiator, disconnect the tranny cooler lines (the cooler is the upper part of the AC condenser), remove the AC condenser, replace the desiccant bag, and then put it all back together. After pulling a underbelly skirt, some clever engineer drafted in a access hole in a lower plastic structure panel so you could remove the desiccant bag without having to remove any components from the car. The whole job took me < 30 min; the desiccant bag was black, and the screen in the plug was clogged; after replacement, the AC is working perfectly again! The AllData time for this job is 3.4 hours. Sometimes the technical manuals are not very accurate or up to date; good thing the forums exist so we can all share our experiences!
2 days ago, I had a friends 2014 Ford Edge in the shop with an AC issue (insufficient cooling). The gauges showed he had a restriction in the high side of the system, so I pulled up the Ford procedure for changing the receiver/dryer (desiccant bag). The book has you remove the radiator, disconnect the tranny cooler lines (the cooler is the upper part of the AC condenser), remove the AC condenser, replace the desiccant bag, and then put it all back together. After pulling a underbelly skirt, some clever engineer drafted in a access hole in a lower plastic structure panel so you could remove the desiccant bag without having to remove any components from the car. The whole job took me < 30 min; the desiccant bag was black, and the screen in the plug was clogged; after replacement, the AC is working perfectly again! The AllData time for this job is 3.4 hours. Sometimes the technical manuals are not very accurate or up to date; good thing the forums exist so we can all share our experiences!
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wascobi
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Mar 26, 2020 07:06 AM







