(’07 MINI Cooper w/ DSC)


I wanted to pass this on to everyone because I was getting bad information from the dealer and a local Indy shop, and the Bentley service manual is incomplete when it comes to the instructions for replacing your clutch.


I recently replaced the clutch in the 2007 MINI Cooper. The Bentley service manual (310-9) tells you to disconnect the steering universal joint by removing the pinch bolt. This is needed since you (in the Bentley version) lower the steering rack down with the sub-frame. Well that's all fine and good, but it fails to tell you that you must retain the relationship (zero degrees) between the steering rack input shaft and the steering column (the steering wheel SZL module).


When you finish installing the clutch, the manual tells you to have a wheel alignment and steering angle reset performed, so I was off to the dealer.
When I took the car in, the dealer completed the alignment, but they said when they reset the steering angle sensor that the fault kept coming back. They quoted $1000 to replace the SZL module. I was skeptical, so I called a local Indy shops. They wanted $500 to replace the SZL module. I was still skeptical since I didn’t understand how disconnecting the steering linkage in the footwell caused an electronic component to fail when the battery was disconnected.


So, I did some reading on this forum and I came up with my own plan. I purchased a Foxwell NT510 scanner on Amazon. It's the same one ECS Tuning sells under the Schwaben name, but the Amazon version is $30 bucks cheaper. After registering and updating the scanner, I hooked it to the MINI. It auto recognized the car, VIN etc. I started the scan. I had faults in six different modules, Steering, DSC, Footwell, turn signals, wipers, air conditioning, etc. All of these faults were related to the fact that after I had disconnected the steering universal joint and then moved the tie rods around to disconnect other suspension components. When I put everything back together, the SZL was not centered (zero degrees) with the steering rack input shaft.


With the wheel alignment complete, car in the garage w/ the front wheels straight, and lots of warning lights on the dash, I connected the scanner. I pulled up live data and selected steering wheel angle sensor. The scanner showed -356 degrees. So, I removed the pinch bolt, and disconnected the u-joint. While watching the scanner, I turned the wheel and watched until the scanner showed 0.0 degrees. I reconnected the u-joint and reset the steering angle sensor. It worked perfectly!!! After that was complete, I proceeded to clear the faults in the other modules. All the lights on the dash went away and did not return; wipers quilt coming on whenever they liked, and the turn signal cancellation problem went away. So my $179.00 investment in the scanner saved me the $1000.00 charge at the dealer for a part I didn't need.


I’m still amazed that a factory trained service technician couldn’t have figured this out. My next step it go contact the Bentley service manual folks. Their instruction for changing a clutch need work.


Happy Motoring!

 

I guess small percentage of people do this kind of task...Thanks for the input

 

i suspect that the dealership wanted to change your SZL module knowing that it would have to be zeroed in. The profit is there and they could have gotten away with it. The dealer has done clutch jobs before so they know the procedure plus they have internal technical directions of what has to be done which would include zeroing out the angle sensor. Good for your persistence, shame on dealer and thanks for sharing.

 

Great information, thanks for posting! Moved to the How To forum because this applies across all the Gen2s.

 

Same experience, replaced the clutch and all the lights came up for DCS and brakes, indicators not reseting and wipers doing their own thing. Now I knew this was a SZL column switch angle sensor problem because on this Gen 2 last year I changed the SZL and had it 'coded and angle reset' at dealership. Went to them this morning and they suggested a new SZl. How could sitting on axle stands and having the ECU disconnected for 5 days blow up the steering control unit? Paid them their 30 minute fee and started reading like mad and MKOV just saved my day!!! Kudos and genius work.
Just back from the car now and used INPA to watch the angle sensor go from 358 degrees to zero, one turn of the wheel then reconnected the pinch bolt/rack. Reset the angle using INPA and cleared codes... everything back to normal, no lights, signals reset again and I am very happy.
Thing that gets me is dealers must do this clutch every week/day so why the big scratch of the head and it is broken attitude? They did not even go as far as to give me a replacement price or begin to fleece me. Very odd. Thanks again for your post! I used Haynes and no mention in there either and when the column is disconnected that steering wheel spins at the slightest touch, I though I had it centred but was a whole turn out...

 

Excellent question; when I asked my local service manager how a guy with a $159.00 scanner can figure this out when a factory-trained service technician can't, she said that the dealer mechanic risks breaking something inside when they turn the wheel with it disconnected, so they don't attempt this type of repair ... they would rather charge you $1000.00 for a part you don't need. My brother suggested dealer mechanics aren't trained to troubleshoot ... they scan computers, look for faults, and change the associated component.

 

While I was waiting, the 'technician' took the motor out for a test drive, away for more than 15 minutes, bet he had a lovely time and not sure exactly what that was for. A cigarette no doubt.
Anyway, have emailed the bloke I was dealing with to let him know the solution and to prove that I was the cause of the fault (and that they are numpties). Don't suppose he is going to refund my 45 euros or the three hours I sat waiting and arguing. Takes a fair bit of force to break the clock spring cable, I spun mine a few times to get what I thought was half way before reassembly, there was my problem :-)
Thank goodness for the interwebs, forums and your genius.

 

Man am I glad I read this post! I am just getting into a clutch replacement on a 2012 S model. What advice would you give to avoid this wheel orientation issue? Could one simply mark a line on the shaft and collar/ pinch bolt? Tie the wheel so it can't rotate freely during the job?
Thanks MKOV, I never would have known if you hadn't shared your experience!

 

My pleasure!

Going forward, keeping things aligned is easy if you know how important it is:

1. When you park the car, make sure the wheels are straight and the steering wheel is centered. Then use some very wide painters tape, tape the steering wheel to the dash. Once you disconnect the pinch bolt, the steering wheel will rotate very easily.
2. Email Henry@foxwelltech.com and get a quote for a Foxwell NT520 (NT530 is the newest version) Pro scanner; tell him Mark sent you; you can pay with Paypal, and he'll send it to you directly from China. You will save a lot of money compared to online prices. You'll need the scanner to reset the steering angle sensor when your finished. You can do it yourself with the Foxwell scanner, or you can take it to the dealer. The scanner will come in handy if you plan on keeping the car.
3. Remember you'll need a wheel alignment when you get it all back together.
4. When you disconnect the two outer electrical connectors on the steering servo actuator, (only one of the outboard connectors and the center connector need to be disconnected), mark them; they are identical. You only need to disconnect the outboard connector that comes from the body harness; the other connector loops back to the steering rack actuator.

 

Just went to Foxwell's web site, 3 week ago, the NT520 was $269 on Amazon; you can get it directly from Foxwell for $159.00

http://www.foxwelltool.com/wholesale...d-version.html

I suspect new scanner versions are on the way.

 

I got the steering wheel stabilized with bungee cords down to the seat adjust handle, the subframe out (had to pull the rack and pinion off to clear the transmission the way I have my car positioned), and oh yeah... the pinch bolt! The threadlocker they use is awesome. Works so well the nut on the backside broke the spotwelds on the 'cage' that captures it. A little time with a MINIature cutoff wheel on a Dremel tool and I cut thru the bolt.
My (steering) electrical connectors were slightly different; my 'inboard' was the looped one, and the 'center' and 'outboard' (larger) connectors were the ones that had to be disconnected.
I sent an email to Elly for a quote on a scan tool. Thanks for that!
All in all, not a bad job so far. Hoping to get the trans out this week.

 

Hi
I get szl timeout error as shown in pic only steering wheel controls don’t work volume up and down and call answering button right side steering wheel controls do work
all other electric components work
a few days ago my start stop stopped working showing brake vacuum sensor fault

 

Thanks for the heads - up on this! Dropped front subframe on 2007 Base R56 to replace control arms and when I took it in for alignment was told that I needed a New Steering Angle Sensor. Could not be repaired at alignment shop, had to go to dealer. After reading this thread, I decided to purchase a Foxwell nt530 and give it a shot. Worked exactly as described. Took all of 1/2 hour and I now have the Foxwell for future use.

 

This is exactly the problem I'm having after replacing the clutch in my daughters '08 Mini. I didn't realize that the steering wheel had to remain in the same position, along with the steering rack, when everything is put back together. I used the Pelican Parts instructions to do the job, but it sounds like the Bentley manual is completely devoid of this very important issue as well. My NT510 scanner is supposed to arrive tomorrow, so hopefully I can clear the DCS/Brake lights off my daughter's dash. Her car also seems like it's in a "limp mode" and the steering wheel pulls sharply to the left below 30 km/hr from time to time. Not all the time. Just on every second or third start up..... I know for certain that I didn't have the steering wheel and the knuckle aligned properly. I'm really hoping your solution solves the problem. At any rate, I really appreciate you posting this, as our local mechanic said I'd need to take the car to the dealer and probably needed a new clock spring, or whole new steering column.................Your solution sounds very logical.....Cheers.

 

Hope it works out for you. Send me a private message if you have any questions.

 

This might be an old thread but could this steering wheel angle sensor cause a no start issue? i justreplaced my clutch, and im pretty sure this is the only thing that i have not attempted.

 

No, misalignment between the SZL & the steering rack will not cause a no start. Recheck the DME connectors you disconnected.

 

I have a question on scanner tools. 2016 Mini Clubman S. I bought an Amazon scanner, Ancel BM700, and it claims to do all systems and all functions. When I get into the steering angle reset it says " this function is not supported (#12)" Has anyone else had a similar experience with their scanners? Any ideas on how to get this function operating? I updated the software to no avail.

 

Send it back. Steering angle sensor is part of the car's stability control system (DSC); If your Ancel tool doesn't support the steering angle sensor then it's not "all systems/functions."

Your best bet (for the money) is a Foxwell NT530 or one of their newer scan tools. They will give you access to the steering angle sensor PID.

 

After reading several posts suggesting the Foxwell NT510 is the unit I needed to reset the steering angle on my 2012 mini clubman, I purchased it from Amazon. Great little unit, only I can't get the SZL to reset. I failed to tie down the steering when when I took the pinch bolt loose and lost zero on the clock spring. I can't find zero on it without the tool because it is 5 full rotations and 2.5 puts the connector in the wrong place. Any way, the test keeps failing. Is there a better manual on this scanner tool? The instructions only tell me where to find the functions, not what steps to perform before and during the reset process. I'm missing something. It tells to to turn the ignition off and back on. I'm not sure if it means fully crank the vehicle or just turn it on. it has a pushputton start, and there's 3 "positions" one appears to be on (headlights lit and dash illuminated) one appears to be auxiliary (some dash lights illuminated, no headlights) and one seems to be off (pushbutton illuminated). I got to the step where it said to get out of the car on the first test, but the car shut down before I could get out. I believe I was in aux, not on, but can't remember. Subsequent tests all showed fail. It might be relevant that the battery had been disconnected before the first test but not again. I can't believe the clock spring is broken from such little movement, but my partner seems to think that's the only thing that it can be since none of the codes will reset. We are old mechanics and all this electronic stuff is a challenge to say the least.

I'm sorry this is so long. I need help and I'm hoping after $1500 on the clutch and flywheel and $200 on the scanner I'm not looking at another $600 for the clock spring.

Thank you for any help you can provide.

Laura

 

I just replaced the clutch in my '09 MCS. Apparently I rotated the steering wheel while it was disconnected (had no idea it was going to be an issue like this). By the time I got everything hooked back up it was 360 degrees off. My ANCEL BM500 wasn't loading the live data and ended up getting the Foxwell NT530 delivered next day and on a Sunday delivery (Amazon Prime impressed me today). That did the trick.

Just wanted to thank you for posting this all those years ago.

 

I would like to thank you for this post, just did my clutch and I had the same issues

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Same experience, replaced the clutch and all the lights came up for DCS and brakes, indicators not reseting and wipers doing their own thing.
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I was scared that FRM module is broken or something causing the wiper moving and the lights, turns out it's the SZL reset... HAHA

 

My pleasure; glad it helped you out!

 

Hi

I know this is an old thread but thought i would ask anyway, just switched the subframe in my mini cooper d 2008 but having an issue with dynamic stability lights etc, tried this reset with my Autel Ap200 but when i undo the pinch bolt and turn the wheel the angle doesn’t change. Tried a new Szl assembly (with wiper stalks and clock spring ) but this doesn’t change the issue. Any ideas on what’s wrong or what i’m doing wrong ?

Thanks

 

[ after many frustrating hours, a new clock spring/SZL/wiper module, and way too much money, I discovered a tiny caveat in a service manual. ​​​The old school mechanic in me assumed I stretched or snapped the clock spring when I forgot to run the seatbelt thru the steering wheel. That was an unnecessary $600 assumption. Once the SZL is disconnected, it loses communication to the main computer. The ONLY way to re-establish cons is to have the module programmed to the car. The handheld units CANNOT do this. I tried a couple local "certified" shops and the BMW dealership but ended up having to take it to the closest MINI dealership over 200 miles away.. Hard lesson learned, but unless you have the full MINI software, when it comes to communication issues, take it to the dealership. They charged me 0.5 hours and I drove away happy as a clam.