Matt while you have the oil cooler off, just take a straight edge like a ruler and make sure the face that fits to the engine block is totally flat. Sometimes those SOBs warp.

 

Use the DetroitTuned.com kit. It comes with OEM banjo bolts. Way Motor Works sent me some junk that broke off in the block. Scared me silly.

Use a torque wrench.

Use a torque wrench.

Use a torque wrench.

Use a torque wrench.

 

will do for sure. How does the bleeding the cooling system work? When this project is finished I realize this is a must.

 

Its easy....just let it run with heat on high and overflow bottle's top off so it burps out the air. After you get hot air and no more bubbles you're done.

 

My Housing about 5hrs do time..on and off beer etc,. Excitement on a Friday night
Dec 30th..

 

Pic's are real close not sure How I did that...But was a PITA...I'm still blowing blue smoke..
No leaks and I changed the coolant gaskets as well and decoked the Valves...

 

I dont believe any of this would have caused you to burn oil. Its either a bad valve(s) or piston ring. Do a leakdown test or a simple compression test next.

 

Leakdown test? Compression I know about but a Leakdown? not familiar...
I changed the heat exchanger gaskets as well..
If new Rings I can do that...valves how do I know if they are bad? do they warp?
OCC not stop this smoke?

 

You can change piston rings? Thats a huge job.

Is your coolant or oil milk-colored by chance? Im thinking maybe you have a leaking head gasket?

Blue smoke is oil burning. Its gonna be valves, piston rings or head gasket.

 

I'm familiar with the water oil mix head gasket....
so pretty sure not head gasket...
Valves maybe the seals or rings....

 

yup. Once of those two. Hopefully its valves and you can swap out the head. Thats the would be easier than piston rings.

Oh and of course your turbo could be leaking oil into the combustion chamber. How many miles on it?

 

116,000 miles Turbo leaking oil?..I changed the oil feed line to the turbo not long ago...
Valve cover make this smoke?..I have a little oil around that I resealed twice...
Hard to pay $325 for a plastic valve cover...but prob cheaper than valves and a ring job...
Unless your a Hooker ring job is cheap...

 

Well...Im not a hooker, sorry. But I know where you can find some....

Ya the seals in the turbo can leak. The same or a very similar turbo is used on Mazdaspeeds and they have had recalls on "smoking turbos" (blue smoke from exhaust caused by leaking turbo seals). As far as I know thats not an issue with the R56.

Since our valve cover has the integral PCV valve, if yours is blocked up, it could cause this yes because the crankcase cannot ventilate and it forces oil into the combustion chamber. Pull it off and check its operation. Yes $325 for a PCV valve is so stupid; But thousands cheaper than the valves or piston rings.

 

I have taken the vlave cover off twice...Now, Question?
How do I check the PCV valve on the valve cover? other than the obvious cracks etc..
What am I looking for? How do I check the PCV Operation?
It's my first Mini and prob last...
How about the Vanos Solenod?
I'm going to pull that tonight and clean it...
Could be the PCV Plastic Hose?..I will check that this eve as well...should change that anyway..plastic..omg..what the hell was BMW thinking...PLASTIC>>>>

 

Can you start a new thread for this discussion.

 

If the valve cover has never been replaced at 116k, guaranteed it needs to be. Not sure how to test it but mine was toast at 100k. Good luck!

 

I finally finished the project but tried to bleed the Aurora out of the system like stated above. I still get no hot air. Coolant is boiling hot, bubbling like a cauldron in the reservoir. The coolant flowing out of the top opening bubbling away. Then drawn almost all the way to the bottom. I topped off the the mark on the reservoir. There is no more bubbling. I put the cap back on but still no hot air. The car idled for over 30 min in the driveway. A code was thrown P112b (no hot air) which says there is a leak or air in the sysyem. Any other way to get the air out of the system?

The rest of the repair worked out. No oil or coolant leak from the oil filter housing gaskets that were replaced. Thanks for the help

 

Did you open the bleeder at the thermostat? There is a black hex headed screw (with an X in the head) that is a bleeder. Take a flashlight and look down between the right side of the valve cover and the air intake tube, down about 5 or 6 inches. You should be able to see this hex bolt.
Use a long, regular screwdriver and open it about 2 turns. Start the car, and use the flashlight to see if liquid and bubbles come out. Try not to open the screw too much, its tough to get back installed. If nothing comes out, open another 1/4 turn at a time until you see liquid. Continue to bleed until no bubbles are seen. Top off the coolant reservoir and you should be all set.

It isn't easy to find the bleeder screw, if you can't find it there should be threads here with pictures.

Have fun,
Mike

 

Did this last weekend. If I had to do the whole thing again, I probably put it into radiator service mode for those few extra inches. The only real challenge that occurred was the turbo support bracket. When I took it off, the top bolt (mounted to the turbo housing) was barely engaged and the lower bolt (into the block) was challenging to get out. Thanks to the dealer who did the turbo oil line 50k ago under warranty.

The end result in re-assembly was that I couldn't get either to go back in. I re-assembled everything without the turbo bracket installed but with plans on getting it back in there in the next few weeks.

Any suggestion on getting these bolts back on if the holes are stripped?

 

Oh No, you stripped the holes. :( All I think of it to try to re tap with the same thread very gentle. Or retap with a larger size, or helicoli inserts. Good luck and hope you can get the old bolts to take.

 

I think my fate was already sealed during the previous turbo oil line replacement procedure. At least my oil leak is gone!

 

Well, try one of those above and see if you have any luck.

 

You need to see what shape those threads are in. Hopefully a few threads are intact enough to hold the bolt in place and support the turbo. Otherwise your gonna need a helicoil (cheaper) or Timesert ($$$ and only worthwhile for high torque applications in my opinion). I had to use 2 helicoils in my oil pan. Its no big deal to install them, the problem is access...do you have the space to get a drill and tap in without having to take it all apart again?

 

When I first tore things down, the upper bolt (connects to the turbo) was engaged but barely. The bracket had plenty of movement on the bolt. In the next couple of weeks, I am going to take the heat shield and downpipe off again and see what I can do.

Thanks everyone for the info.

 

If you need a helicoil, just make sure you dont drill out the old threads too deep and puncture the block. Put a piece of tape on the drill bit to represent max depth of the existing hole.