Put front end in service mode. While I was replacing the original turbo oil supply line at 65,000 miles with the Detroit Tuned kit, I also replaced the turbo oil return line with an OEM one, oil filter housing gaskets, and heat exchanger gaskets. The heat exchanger attaches to the side of the oil filter housing so I figured I may as well replace the gaskets while I had the housing removed from the engine. The Detroit Tuned kit was good.
@Lex2008 Thanks for the suggestion about water pump and hose, but most likely I won't replace them as I'm planning to sell the car soon. I want to do what's right, without over-doing it. Not that it matters much but my car is not a 2010, it's a 2013 with 52k easy miles on it, in the perfect weather of SoCal. @neonsteve Understood about the housing-exchanger gasket, I was already planning to replace it. It seems you didn't do any of the coolant lines, why? Saving a few dollars or just didn't look necessary? @mbwicz As it's my first time doing this job, I think it's best if I put the car in service mode, to get some extra space. I actually stopped today at my local hardware store and picked up the two 120mm M8 bolts required to hold the front-end of the car when you slide it forward.
The heat exchanger attaches to the side of the oil filter housing so I figured I may as well replace the gaskets while I had the housing removed from the engine. The Detroit Tuned kit was good.
YES forgot to mention that....but look like you were well aware.
I bet ECS Tuning has the same kit for cheaper.
Use some Scotch-Brite on the mating surfaces of the cooler and filter housing to get them clean.
And if its your first time doing this, disconnect the battery. There is a positive terminal on the alternator that can come into contact when removing the heat shields. And have a variety of 10 mm sockets and wrenches. Getting the heat shields on and off is the worst part of the job.
One of the reasons that the system leaks is that the hole spacing for the filter housing is not ideal. I've had warpage on the filter housing, and have used a file to flatten the surface between the block and the oil filter housing.
And in my opinion, ECS is no longer the cheapest place around. They have a great catalog, and sometimes things go on sale. The detroit tuned kit uses an aftermarket oil pressure line that will be more reliable than the factory line.
Ditto on the battery disconnect, I read about it and was already planning to do it.
I have a good selection of tools, we’ll see if they are enough…
I’m going to order the parts and maybe use the Thanksgiving weekend to do the job, so I have a couple full days to devote to it.
Will report back on my experience… or I might come back here for help if I get stuck
Thanks all for your inputs!
Not sure how the emissions inspection is where you live, but this is the perfect time to install the aftermarket downpipe. Other than my stage 1 tune, this was the biggest 'seat of the pants' power improvement. I used a catted downpipe. I have an 'incomplete' emissions output recorded in my ECM, but here in NY we are allowed one (with no CEL showing). So as long as all else is running ok, I'm good.
The cheapest place I have found for OEM MINI parts is thebmwminipartstore.com It is a MINI dealer in Cincinnati. You pay shipping, so take that into account. RM European is also good to deal with.
I replaced the turbo line (with the
Detroit Tuned one) and the oil
cooler housing gaskets several
months ago. It was a long job
with a couple snags, but overall
not that difficult.
The stealership will charge an
arm and a leg (and bill for WAY
more labor hours than they actually put in) because they
know you don’t want to do it
yourself.
if you can’t or won’t do it
yourself, find a reasonable
and competent independent
shop to do it for half an arm
and a third of a leg.
The cheapest place I have found for OEM MINI parts is thebmwminipartstore.com It is a MINI dealer in Cincinnati. You pay shipping, so take that into account. RM European is also good to deal with.
I just did a comparison of three parts i ordered from ECS. Yes bmwminiparts was $10 cheaper shipping included.
Ecs:
But if you want the option of OEM manufacturer part not in the BMW box, ECS is way cheaper. The vacuum pump solenoid was $40 more plus shipping at thebmeninipartsstore.com than at ECS Tuning.
Yes we work with the OEM supplier direct to try to get the best prices.
On most* parts we can match other Genuine MINI dealers, as long its correct and a valid dealer. Keep in mind that other dealers are slow to update prices in there systems as they are not as quick as us. So if its way way below they might A. eat the cost B. Update it and email you back there was a price change error and cancel the order. We have even seen MINI dealers shut down there site recently (drop MINI parts) due to not being able to update the site daily/per month, they lost money and shut down there sales site.
We also do this for "call in only" for our MINI people on the forums, you have to mention you are on the forums and "call in only".
I am always here, unless on vacation/sema/family event to help you guys.
** Update we have our own line that i have been running and it has lifetime replacement.
Scratching my head on this one. Reading through this thread, but have not seen anything that calls out what the issue I might have.
I recently replaced the turbos feed and return oil lines. Also replaced the the oil filter housing gaskets while I was in there. After putting everything back together. Toped off the oil, and filled and bled the coolant system. Now I have a rough idle issue. seems that there might be a vacuum leak? When pulling the oil cap off while the car is running. There is some suction that pull the cap back on.
Before going to pull the heat shields back out and the down pipe. Looking to see if anyone might have some thoughts.
Scratching my head on this one. Reading through this thread, but have not seen anything that calls out what the issue I might have.
I recently replaced the turbos feed and return oil lines. Also replaced the the oil filter housing gaskets while I was in there. After putting everything back together. Toped off the oil, and filled and bled the coolant system. Now I have a rough idle issue. seems that there might be a vacuum leak? When pulling the oil cap off while the car is running. There is some suction that pull the cap back on.
Before going to pull the heat shields back out and the down pipe. Looking to see if anyone might have some thoughts.
2011 Countryman S
Double check all the hoses particularly the ribbed plastic hose at back passenger side of valve cover.. It gets so brittle it will break if you even go near it.
Finally had time to go back in. All hoses look to be in good condition. Double checked wire connectors. There are 2 on the oil filter housing. I believe 1 is the aux water pump and the 2nd is a air temp sensor. Seems they are correct. As the wire harness does not allow them to stretch out past where they can reach. Going to start buttoning it back up and see if there is any change.
Cool. Just for fun, check the pcv hose going into the underside of the intake plenum... Just rule it out.
Keep us posted.
Got it back together and checked the pcv hoses. From what I can see it all looks in order. As the engine warmed up. It still ran rough. At this point I am wondering if a gasket in the oil filter housing shifted or did not seat right. I let it run for a bit and noticed a bit of smoke coming of the exhaust pipe. Where it meets the cat. Once it cools I am going to give it one more look to see if I can spot if/where it might be leaking. There has been no new drops while the car has been sitting.
Got it back together and checked the pcv hoses. From what I can see it all looks in order. As the engine warmed up. It still ran rough. At this point I am wondering if a gasket in the oil filter housing shifted or did not seat right. I let it run for a bit and noticed a bit of smoke coming of the exhaust pipe. Where it meets the cat. Once it cools I am going to give it one more look to see if I can spot if/where it might be leaking. There has been no new drops while the car has been sitting.
It's probably just smoking because some oil is coolant dripped onto the down pipe. It will burn off.
Can you hear a vacuum leak anywhere? Can you use some carb cleaner when the engine is cold and just start spraying around the vacuum lines to see if you get a change in idle? Have a garden hose or fire extinguisher handy!
It was idling and running perfectly before you changed the oil and coolant gaskets?
It's probably just smoking because some oil is coolant dripped onto the down pipe. It will burn off.
Can you hear a vacuum leak anywhere? Can you use some carb cleaner when the engine is cold and just start spraying around the vacuum lines to see if you get a change in idle? Have a garden hose or fire extinguisher handy!
It was idling and running perfectly before you changed the oil and coolant gaskets?
Yes, it idle great before replacing the turbo feed lines and the oil filter housing gaskets. I am staring to think its the VVT solenoid or spark plugs went out.
Was finally able determine the issue of the rough idle. After running a few test and reseting the vanos system. Turns out the cam timing is off. Best I can figure. Is that at some point the oil pressure was too low and released enough pressure off the chain guides. Which allowed the chain to slip a few teeth. So next I will be getting the timing chain and cam chain tensioner replaced.
Today I replaced the oil filter housing gaskets and the gaskets for the oil cooler. This is to try and fix an oil leak that drips down the bellhousing and looks like a rear main leak. The first picture is of a leak on a car similar to how mine looks. Previously I had replaced the valve cover and turbo oil lines.
First things first: I'm long winded, and I'm trying to put details in to help people. Sorry if this gets long.
Plan on 4-6 hours to do this, assuming that you don't have difficulties. I spent extra time because I tried to do this from the top (removed coolant tank, turbo inlet and outlet hoses). I came to the conclusion that this has to be done from under the car.
Two of the bolts holding the oil filter housing in place are under the exhaust heat shield. Therefore you need to remove the heat shields and downpipe to get to this job.
Some things to think about before you get into this:
1. If you have never removed the downpipe, plan on some time for this.
2. If the exhaust clamp has never been removed, buy another one. Don't try and save the old one, cut it off and replace it.
3. This job will expose the turbo oil lines, so it is the perfect time to replace them.
4. If you want to add a heat wrap to the turbo, this is the time to do this as well.
5. The coolant is drained, so if you think that you may have a thermostat or water pump leak, this job will save you some steps.
6. I removed the coolant tank for access, but then I saw that my tank has a small crack in the bottom of it, along with some staining that shows that it is leaking.
Parts you need:
1. Oil filter housing gasket kit
2. Oil cooler gasket kit
3. Coolant/distilled water
4. Downpipe to turbo gasket
Optional parts:
1. Oil change supplies (there is a pretty good chance that some coolant will get in the oil, but not necessarily required)
2. Turbo oil feed and drain lines
3.
Tools:
1. T25 torx bit
2. Various metric sockets, ratcheting wrenches
3. Lots of towels, cardboard, drain pan. This job is seriously messy, and I don't see any way to avoid this.
4. Brake cleaner or something to clean parts and the engine block
The second picture is the oil filter housing, the side that bolts to the block. 4 bolts connect the housing to the block.
The third picture is the other side of the oil filter housing, the side that the oil cooler bolts on.
I'm gonna do this in multiple posts since I can only put 3 pics in each post.
Mike
Wow, thanks a lot Mike! Sorry for the bump, but this is the best thread I've come across on the net. Champion!
So I think I fell into the statistics too..
I have an R56S N18 and suddenly I had a strange leak.
It also seems to me from the Oil cooler filter housing gasket area or maybe the OIL PAN or the turbo oil line.. I need to clean it well and check..
I should mention that I recently replaced a new auxiliary water pump about a month ago and also the coolant (and everything was dry).
Do I need to disassemble the auxiliary water pump again and replace the coolant again to replace the oil cooler seals?
I'm not sure I quite understand why.
Another question for you - I saw that there is a Turbo Oil Feed kit from MAMBA-TEK.
Is it better than the original? Does anyone have experience with it?
(I had my Turbo Oil Return Pipe 11658617069 replaced at my company about three years ago - do I need to replace it again? Or is it recommended to replace only the Turbo Oil Pipe Line (the hard pipe) 11657534454?
In terms of water/oil - so if I understand correctly:
1. Disassemble everything including the auxiliary water pump? (Do I need to drain all the coolant and fill with new coolant)?
2. Disassemble the oil cooler and replace all the seals and put it back.
3. Close everything, add coolant and then drain and change the engine oil and start the engine?
Is this the correct order of things?
Apologies for all the questions, I'm worried about the combination of oil and water and the order of operations.
Yes replace the oil return if you're gonna take everything off again. I used Detroit Tune oil feed line.
Put the car in repair mode so you have room to access the bolts.
Yes your order of operations is correct. You need to drain the coolant and oil because you will cross contaminate both when you take the oil cooler off. The auxiliary water pump just needs to be disconnected.
Hi
Thanks for the quick response! I didn't replace any oil line seals. I only replaced the complete auxiliary water pump (plug and play) because the old pump was noisy (and I replaced new coolant). Maybe my leak is a coincidence :/ My MINI has 117,000km. I replaced the valve cover gasket a year ago and everything is dry (from above).
