I did decide to use the K-seal. From my research I felt the risks to clogging other parts of the coolant system was very low. I added 1/2 bottle into the coolant reservoir tank and took a 10 mile drive. Leak has been sealed for now. I will report in the future if this product has made a permanent fix or has caused any other problems with the engine, radiator or heater core.
My car is not an S so it doesn't have the turbo oil cooler line.

 

So are we 100% sure it is 18 ft/lbs for the oil filter housing bolts? Was going to do this install today, but I needed to get a torque wrench and figured I do a bit more research beforehand regarding the torque specs. Going to shoot for tomorrow. Overall great DIY. Thanks for the effort and taking the time to post this for everyone to see.

 

No, it is not 18ft/lbs; that's too high, and a misunderstanding that I was also given. It's more like 8-10 ft/lbs, according to the general specifications for the bolt tolerances on pg 020-9 of the Bentley Manual. The MAX permissible torque for those 8.8-M6 (6mm diameter, not wrench size) bolts is 10 N·m/7.4 ft/lbs. This is consistent with the size and composition of the hardware, as well as the given application. Stripped-out bolt on aluminum block = disaster. I applied a thin coat of anti-seize, and star-torqued them to ~ 10 ft/lbs. It's been over 3000 miles, no problems.

 

I honestly was not able to find the torque spec for the housing bolts in the Bentley manual. I very confused. So torqued it to 18 ft/lbs and broke one bolt. Luckily I was able to remove the thread/broken bolt from the block and went to Lowes and got a replacement.

Before I left to go to Lowes I called MINI Service and ask for the torque spec and they said 12 NM which = 8.8 ft/lbs. I about finished with the replacement and buttoning and tightening everything back up.

I appreciate your response and clarification to the torque spec. I did not use any anti-seize, but have torqued them to 10 ft/lbs. I will chime back in after a few thousand miles.

 

it appears my wife's 08MCS has the same issue (and a leaky oil pan that apparently wasn't fixed right when the timing chain/TCT was replaced under recall...)



is there anything else this could be before i start ordering the parts listed on the first page? i know they have already replaced the oil lines for the turbo while it was under warranty so i'm not sure i need to do those as well.

any advice would be appreciated! thanks for the writeup, mbwicz.

 

From that corner and location its most likely the oil cooler gaskets. Wipe up the oil as best you can and see if the pan has a leak. The older MINIs have the paper gasket, ones that had it done by MINI Used a sealant per a TIS.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...leak-pics.html




and oil pan gasket:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...e-cause-2.html




Thanks and good luck.

 

On my car, the downpipe had never been removed before. I bought a new exhaust clamp (where the downpipe connects to the rest of the exhaust), and just cut the old one off. I also replaced the drain line from the turbo. This has to be removed anyway, and mine had some crusty crap in it. There is no pressure in the drain line, so I doubt that it would be leaking.

I also pulled my oil pan and used RTV to seal it, it hasn't leaked.

I hate to keep bringing stuff up, but if you go through the trouble of getting the heat shields and downpipe off, you want to fix every $20 potential leak that you can. Also, don't forget a good light so that you can see that all of the surfaces are clean before reassembly.

Good luck, and don't get frustrated.

Mike

 

This looks almost identical to what my oil leak looked like to. I was convinced it was the oil pan. Took it to a shop to get a final diagnosis and they said it was the oil filter housing gaskets. Getting that and the water pump done on Sunday.

 

Yea, mine was in the same location, wiped it and found it was the filter seals. Did it all at once.

 

Well I'm a lot more than a few thousand miles from when I said I'd reply, but so far so good. No oil leakage whatsoever, but I would agree with the earlier replies. It definitely feels like your oil filter housing and gasket are shot. That's a ton of oil showing in that pic.

Side Note: now I have to worry about my thermostat. There's pool of coolant on the topside of the transmission. So either thermostat, hoses, water pump or reservoir is cracked and/or leaking. :/

 

SpeedRacer,
Plan on replacing the thermostat. The water pump is on the other side of the engine (far passenger side rear). You can check the coolant tank for free (remove the screw holding it to the radiator support and look at the bottom of the tank for cracks or signs of leakage (blue chalky residue).

Mike

 

Thanks for the information, Mike. Will check it out after work today. Not trying to steal this thread, but I just wanted to get my "Oil Filter Housing" reply in that I said I was planning on doing earlier. I will move my remaining questions over to a thermostat thread.

 

Thermostat DIY link here: I would get that done and check the pump and coolant tank.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...8-no-heat.html




Thanks

 

Did you end up replacing the thermostat housing? When I discovered coolant on the top of the transmission it was a crack in the thermostat housing. Not too difficult to replace. I bought mine from ECS Tuning.

 

Yea, any update ?

Grussell , thanks for the order and glad you got it fixed. Happy motoring .

 

Ok a need a little help. I got the filter housing off but it kicked my butt. I played hell getting the black water pump off. What's the best way to reassemble the housing and black pump? I fear screwing up the gaskets trying to fight it back together. Install pump onto housing and then housing to block or housing to block then pump to housing? How the hell did you guys get to those two bolts to reinstall?
Also is there a tool for those bastard hose clamps?

 

Ours has started leaking too at 77k. I did a visual inspection and 99% sure the gaskets are leaking. I noticed what looked a small leak on the side of the oil pan. Checked all of the bolts on the oil pan and several I could turn a quarter turn using a 1/4'' drive ratchet. Interesting enough those were where I noticed the small leak. I can also tell the valve cover has been off before, so I am hoping the timing chain has been replaced.


Ordered the gaskets and the oil change kit from you guys this morning. You should stock a few sets of gaskets so we don't have to wait 5 days to ship.


I will follow up with my gasket job in a few weeks.

 

I remember that getting the bolts back in was a challenge, I put the housing on first, then the pump bracket.

Mike

 

I was able to remove the pump bracket off of the housing by using a 1/4'' drive ratchet with a deep 8mm socket. I removed the coolant tank and unplugged the O2 sensor and pump wiring plugs then had fairly easy access to the bolts.

 

I received my parts from ECS Friday and replaced the gaskets Sunday. I had the heat shields off in about 30 minutes and none of the bolts gave me trouble. The first owner of our MINI lived in Santa Fe, NM, so there is no rust or corrosion. The only problem I had was after I had the heat shields back on and the downpipe in I had 2 of the studs from the turbo come out with the nuts. When I tried to reinsert the studs one would not thread in. I ended up taking the heat shields and downpipe back off and running a M8 1.25 tap through the stud hole threads. I have no clue how it got buggered up. Then I was able to reinstall everything. About 250 miles since the gasket change and she is oil leak free and clean.

 

When do you guys anticipate getting the housing to block gaskets back in stock?

 

No confirmed ETA from MINI but it looks like at least another two weeks 11428643758 . There was a super-cession that happened and then the stock was depleted.

Thats all the info we have.

 

i appreciate the reply. i'll keep an eye on my email for the notification. getting annoying having to check the coolant tank every night.

 

I had to get one set from the local Mini dealer and They actually had them in stock

 

Thanks. This is extremely helpful. I just had the same malady. And the **** of this is that I replaced my turbo, cat, manifold... last November and had the engine naked down to the ports. And now to take all that crap off again is such a slap in the face.
but thanks for the pix and discussion. Did you say you had to take the rear heat shield off to get to two of the bolts on the housing? Did you disconnect the cat from the exhaust or simply find a way to support the cat. I don't recall if the heat shield attached to the block at the bottom. I am going to replace the aux water pump and thernostat while I'm down there. Extraa $200