I've been searching on how to do this for a long time and finally found out how! This should be done after a fluid change. It can also sometimes solve strange shifting behavior in the CVT.

First, you will need an OBDII USB cable and the BMW DIS software - I got this off of ebay from seller "bmwcables-co-uk". The software is fairly complicated to install and get working properly, but it does work if you take the time. The cable runs about $40-$50. It will also allow you to view and reset all other codes, so you're basically getting a very powerful resource for very cheap.

Once you're running DIS and connected to the OBDII port in your MINI with the ignition on (but engine off):

1. Select "Service Functions"; then "Drive" and "CVT gear".
2. From the second column, select "Replacement/adaptation, CVT transmission" and then "Test Plan".
3. Scroll through the next screens and answer "Yes" to the question "Is it necessary to delete adaptation values?"

After the CVT gear ratio adaptations are deleted, perform a complete transmission "teach-in" procedure, as follows:

Clutch adaptation:
1. Press and hold the brake pedal. Start the cold engine.
2. During a cold start warm-up phase (idle speed is slightly increased), shift from P to N for 10 seconds, and then shift to D for 10 seconds. XP will be displayed in the instrument cluster.
3. Repeat the following sequence 10 times: shift from P to N for 3 seconds, and then shift to D for 3 seconds. XP will be displayed in the instrument cluster.
4. Repeat the following sequence 10 times: shift from P to N for 3 seconds, and then shift to R for 3 seconds. XP will be displayed in the instrument cluster.

Gear ratio adaptation:
1. Accelerate the vehicle to a speed of 50 mph. Release the accelerator pedal and allow the vehicle to coast down to a stop. The transmission adapts itself when going through 4,500 rpm, 4,000 rpm...and 1,400 rpm engine speeds. P will be displayed now in the instrument cluster.
2. With the engine at the operating temperature (idle speed stabilized at 800 rpm), repeat Clutch Adaptation steps 3 and 4.
3. Turn the ignition off.

Important:

Wait for at least 10 mins. before possible disconnection from the battery and/or DME engine control module.

 

is this done on jack stands (wheels freely spinning) or on a road?
I'm trying to figure out how they would do this at the dealership.

 

You have to drive the car for the gear ratio adadaptation. When I did mine, I waited until the late evening...

 

alright thanks!

 

I have a question: what does the "important" section mean exactly?

Important: Wait for at least 10 mins. before possible disconnection from the battery and/or DME engine control module.

After switching off the engine, what does it mean you don't disconnect from the battery or DME module? Not taking the battery out?

 

Also, for the Clutch adaptaion steps 3 & 4, what is the correct sequence?
Is it P-N(3sec)-D(3sec)-P-N(3sec)-D(3sec), etc
or
P-N(3sec)-D(3sec)-N(3sec)-D(3sec), etc?

So, after the stick is in D, what comes next for repeating the procedure? Is it N(3sec) or move it all the way to P quickly and then N(3sec)? How much time do you stay in P?

To go to step 4 and do the same thing with N and R, once finished with step 3 the stick is in P?

 

Yes, I always took it to mean not removing the battery. My guess is it might cause the adaptations to not be saved correctly for some reason.

 

It's been about two years, so I can't remember for sure, but I think I always did P-N(3sec)-D(3sec)-P-N(3sec)-D(3sec).

However, I never felt like the clutch adaptations were right because it lurched a lot on cold starts when the weather got cold. It was fine once the transmission fluid was warm. So, I guess with that said it might be worth trying both ways to see if one works better for you.

 

Thought I’d share this because it might be helpful to someone, as I’ve heard of people not being able to get out of limp mode after a CVT reset.

Background: I had my transmission fluid changed at Mr. Lube (Canada’s Valvoline station) about 5 years ago (Mini Cooper R50, CVT). This was before I knew anything about cars. The transmission always behaved weirdly in slow traffic (jerking) or during hard braking to a full stop (whining sound and strong jerking).

I recently replaced the fluid myself. The old drained fluid was essentially black, but with no metal pieces. It was also missing about 2 L of fluid. After several exchanges with Red Line fluid and leveling it properly, the jerking behavior went away.

However, I then experienced some “downshifting” (RPMs go up) when releasing the gas pedal while driving 60–70 mph, as well as higher-than-expected RPMs when driving 50–55 mph (high 2000 RPM). I assumed this was due to bad adaptations from driving with an underfilled transmission, so I reset the CVT adaptations.

I followed the procedure after the reset but couldn’t get the car to go faster than ~20 mph without revving over 4000 RPM. It turns out you actually have to rev to around 6000 RPM to overcome this. After that, the car drove normally, and I followed the 55 mph to 25 mph cruising procedure a few times.The car came out of X-mode, and all the previous bad behaviors disappeared.