I just bought a 2003 MC with a 6spd CVT. I was told it had a new CVT installed, but it never drove correctly after the install.

When I got it, it had xP on the dash. After checking fluid levels, (It was a quart high, but very clean like it was a fresh fill), I got the correct level, and I finally got the Clutch and Shift Adaptation Learn process done and XP is gone. Now, when I drive it, the transmission has a hard time holding gears. It's like it is slipping/surging. It revs high and low and will not LOCK into a gear very well. I guess there's no REAL clutch on these, is that correct? Could my CVT Belt be glazed and will not lock in?

If I keep driving it, it will enter into EP mode and the trans seems like it's running hot. Is there a chance the trans cooling is not working? Is there a way to check? I'm concerned that the person that installed the new trans may have done something incorrectly, since they never got xP to go away, and it was Over-Full.

I'm not getting any codes from the computer...

I'm looking for any advice that will hopefully keep me from having to replace the CVT if possible.

 

After a fluid change or a full tranny change, there is a VERY SPECIFIC PROCDURE that must be followed to reset the adaptations.....of the CVT tranys computer...
Sounds like it may not have been done....

 

Thank you for your reply.

I THINK I got them right, but I might need to pull the battery and try again.

I reset the Cold Clutch Adaptations when cold by going into Drive, Park, Reverse, 10 times 3 sec ea, etc... I then did the Shift Adaptations by going 55 MPH with 6000 RPM and let it coast to almost stopped. The xP turned off. I then did the Warm Clutch Adaptations with same method as cold.

It appears to have completed correctly, but I will try again and see if I get anything different.

 

That is exactly how mine drove after getting a rebuilt CVT. The man who did the transmission work didn't have the BMW-MINI software so I took it where it got reprogrammed. It's been perfect for over a year.

 

Can you elaborate on this, if you know the answer? Did they actually reprogram the ECU, or did they just do the Re-Learn Procedure on the Transmission? I've been tempted to have the ECU Re-Flashed to see if that would help, but I have no idea what the cost would be, or where to have it done. Anyone near me have the computer and want to give it a shot for a few bucks???

I'm located in Placerville, CA, - near Sacramento, CA.

 

I rebuilt my CVT myself. Do you know if they erased all the old cvt adaptions from the ecu? You may have to get the software and cable to connect a laptop to your car. I bought a cvt assembly video. They are not that complicated. Search cvt adaption on you tube. European transmission does one. Also check their website. For tech stuff.

 

I dug out the paper work from The MINI-BMW garage and the wording on the receipt states that they "reset CVT drive adaptions". The cost was $125.00. The "re-learn" procedure was done correctly by the mechanic who replaced the transmission. At that time he thought that was all that was required to make the transmission functional.
Hope all goes well and I remember so well, the hassles and phone calls to get it resolved.

 

This website explains how I did my cvt adaption last week. Plus some trouble shooting. http://www.europeantransmissions.com...daptation.html To bad your not closer to Washington state.

 

Thank you both for your replies.

I'm guessing the CVT installer did not do the Adaptations since the car had xP on the dash when I picked it up. The CVT was also over full, so it would NOT accept the Re-Learn procedure. Only after I realized it was over full and I adjusted the fluid level, would it Re-Learn. BUT, when I did the re-learn, I had to touch the brakes due to someone pulling in front of me. I'm thinking that MIGHT have caused it to re-learn incorrectly.

I did check out the European Transmission site. They are awesome with all the Tech Help. I've been considering rebuilding the CVT Myself too if it comes to that. Do you remember what repairs you needed, and the cost of parts?

I've got a BMW/MINI OBD Scanner showing up tomorrow so I can run all the tests on it. I've never used one on the MINI, so hopefully I can figure it out. I'll be using INPA software. From what I can tell, I will be able to read codes, and also put it back into Re-Learn xP mode. It will also allow flashing, but I'm afraid to try that...

 

I have around $1400.00 in parts plus the assembly video,but my tranny was missing a lot of parts. The main cost was the drive belt. I replaced all the seals and clutch disc's, torque sensor. A couple of bearings. Those I bought local. Follow the european transmissions you tube video on the adaption using inpa. I had to drive the car a mile or 2 to do the driving part. If that's the case go easy on it. I wouldn't do any re-flashing. Good luck.

 

If you're getting "EP", be thankful that it's giving you at least some information on what's wrong. Some folks never got "EP" when their's went out. When "EP" shows up, there is a code stored and you need INPA or a BMW/MINI code reader to read it - a generic code reader will probably not be able to get it. Before doing anything else or buying anything, definitely find out what is triggering EP on yours - it will help you narrow down the problem.

When my CVT went out, "EP" showed up and pointed to the stepper motor as the culprit.

 

The code from my generic scanner was P1786. I'll research it to see what I can find.

 

Same code mine gave when it died. Eventually got stuck in low ratio all the time (like being stuck in first gear).

"Transmission Ratio Control Actuator Circuit Range/Performance"

or

"Gearbox-ratio actuator - measuring-range or power-output problem"


Very likely the stepper motor on the valve body. Repair would not require pulling the transmission. You can remove the transmission pan after lowering the subframe, and remove the valve body from there. There is a video on Youtube giving some pointers on the bolts to loosen to remove the valve body. I think the stepper motor runs around $400.

 

Thank you Geoff. That's the exact part I've been suspecting from my research and mine gets stuck in high ratio...


I've found that part for $350 online. I'll verify codes with the new scanner when it arrives tomorrow. I was going to pull the pan already, but want to have the oil here first. Thank you again everyone. I really appreciate it.

 

Ok, last week when I started diagnosing, I suspected Stepper Motor, so found the $350ish price I mentioned at Mini Mania. I've now sourced the Stepper Motor for $220 shipped to my door from Sussex Autos (Genuine OEM). Now, I'm waiting for the scanner to arrive today so I can diagnose, and then I'm going to pull the pan and inspect. I'm even holding out hope that it's just a Wiring or Plug issue leading to the stepper motor. I'll know more when it's opened.

Again Geoff, thank you for giving me hope that my original assumption was correct. I always question myself, especially on something I've never done before, but when someone else comes up with the same conclusion, it makes me feel better.

I have already replaced the Valve body in my Wife's VW New Beetle, so this should be familiar and actually quite simple.

PS: Geoff, did you JUST replace the Stepper Motor, or did you replace the CVT or Rebuild it?

 

Best of luck with the troubleshooting!

On mine, I suspected a bearing was starting to go out in mine at the same the stepper motor went out. I plan on keeping the car forever and was ready to ditch the CVT for a 6-speed manual from an S, so that's the route I took. It's been rock-solid for 2.5 years.

 

Ahh. I saw that mod and have also considered it. If things look grim, I might go that route. I've seen two complete 6 spd changeovers for $600 including all parts (One on this site, and one local). That's MUCH cheaper than the CVT Rebuild or Replacement.

 

Ok, I've taken the Valve Body out and found that about 5 of the Valves were stuck. I cleaned everything up and polished the valves and bores and now it shifts perfectly. Only problem is that now I've got a horrible noise. It was there before I got the shifting working, but it's getting louder.


Does anyone recognize this noise? When I block up the car and run it, then I put a stick to my ear and listen, it seems loudest near the driver side output axle (See Attachment). It's slightly connected to engine speed, and not only axle speed, so I don't believe it's the Axle Output Bearing, or whatever that bearing would be called. I believe it's internal in the CVT somewhere.

I have a new thread over HERE so I can keep these two issues separate.