Make sure your pump can handle over a 50-50 meth-water mix otherwise you are going to greatly reduce the life of your pump

 

Thanks for the remind D-Man...but thankfully, the pump is good for 100% meth

 

Anyone know if a drivers side headlight washer tank will fit a 2002 r53, I would like to get one from the dealer and use it for my W/M tank, that way I would still keep my windshield washer tank for the windscreen.

 

I suspect it would work - I don't know of anything in there that would interfere with it, or anything they changed in the later builds to allow the HL washer tank to fit - but haven't tried it.

 

Thanks for the input Blimey, I bought the tank today and will begin the install shortly.

 

Any whp numbers you guys got from these setups yet?

 

Somewhere between 0 and 20whp. Does that help?

 

Hey Jolly, as the Devils Own rep, I'll say that the DO Meth Kit is more about keeping the WHP you have during hot summer days or while dealing with heat soak. Heat eats power and meth eats heat. Any WHP gains you see will be based 100% on your setup and if you can get a ECU Tune post meth kit install.

 

Yeap, the only way to get REAL power from meth is to tune for it...Mynes and RMW does this if you ask for it....

Ive gained approx. 15HP with meth w/o a tune cos the avg. amb.temp. here is 33deg C....so the meth definitely helps my car with the intense heat

 

So, like I said... between 0 and 20whp.

Thanks guys for explaining why.

Also matters whether your car is tuned or not pre-meth. Cars with stock tunes and mods and high temps are likely to benefit a lot, because it's likely that they're detonating and pulling timing. The meth will cool these off, prevent detonation and allow timing to be advanced automatically by the ECU, gaining power. Cars that are "properly" tuned for the mods they have will tend to gain less from the cooling, but will still get some gains.

One thing the water/meth buys you is more safety by keeping cylinder and exhaust temps down when you flog your car like I do... I beat the crap outta it. I should be less likely to burn it up with the water/meth.

 

The best analogy that I can find is this:
Remember how your car feels (power-wise) when it's 45º or less outside? You can experience this in the summer time with a w/m kit. So, to reiterate, your car performs optimally with low IATs.

In my exp. on the dyno, heat soak can rob you of about 5-9whp. This is about avg, in our testing. Again YMMV based on air flow (cooling), quality of fuel and any number of other factors.

 

I've never read more on forums then I have the last 3 days on water/meth setups.

In anycase, would mounting the nozzle a bit lower so that it is located after the bend be more efficient? It will then be injected in a straight line towards the combustion chamber. Apparently, you MIGHT not get even flow of the mist to all cylinders if there is a bend etc.

Anybody clarify?

 

Not sure if this can help you at all but my system has the nozzle installed quite high on the curve. It is the top most fitting in the pic, just above the NOS input. It seems to work quite well and although it is a Alky Control system I think the numbers should be close for any of the higher quality setups. I did a little test run last summer .

As I recall the numbers were :

Before alky IAT 134 after putting about town and stopping for a few min .

Hit switch and entered on ramp.

Aggressively accelerated through 4 gears and got up to about 70.

IAT 66

Ambient temp 94

Randy
M7 tuning

 

Thanks Randy. What sparked my curiosity is a M3 thread I stumbled upon and this was what was happening with his water/meth system. So I just assumed the same could possibly happen with the Mini if the nozzle(s) aren't mounted in an optimal position?





http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=685926
For more info for those who would like to read.

 

IMO the problem with that setup is that the sprayers are TOO CLOSE to the individual intake ports... so some ports can get air with no w/m, and some can get more of a direct spray blowing into them.

When spraying into the IC outlet horn (like Randy and I and others are), you're gonna get a homogeneous mix coming out of the horn and into the intake manifold... so all cylinders are gonna see the same mix. Explain how a cylinder can get air WITHOUT w/m mixed in in our setups? Where's the "dry" air gonna come from?

 

Log style intake manifolds can be troublesome for flow and fluids coming out of suspension. If the fluid particle size is to big(poor atomization or too big nozzle) or the air overly saturated certain cylinders may get more that others.

The two things that you need to address to get power out of the MINI with these systems is balancing cooling with AFR control.

 

Valid point Blimey! Thanks for clearing up any uncertainty I had. I just thought if the oppisite interal wall of the horn might be too close at the bend and might possibly form droplets. I'm sure if this was the case, there would be a thread about this a long time ago.

 

Put the nozzle in front of the charger and this will greatly improve its effeciency by about 1 psi due to better sealing and internal cooling of the charger.

 

What first got me interested in adding meth to my setup was when it was highly recommended to be by two driving buddies. Both of them have supercharged Vett's with over 700 RWP and would not think of starting their cars without a good meth system in place. I began working with the company they recommended ,Alky Control ,and put together a system for my Mini. I discussed nozzle placement with them and it was decided that the horn location would work out fine for my application. If you want to get some straight answers to how meth systems work the site is not pretty but VERY informative. http://www.alkycontrol.com/ . They may be a little more expensive than most but everything they have from pumps to the steel braided lines are top notch. Dman on here has done a ton of real world testing with this system and can really answer the more technical side of things if you are interested.

Randy
M7 Tuning

 

man love your set up . but do yourself a favor and stey away from the ww fluid. it eventually clogs everything up . the car's flow backtracks that crap all the way to the back of the throttle body. it was cool to see how much flow actually got all the way back but it just clogs crap up . try pure meth one time. i noticed a huge punch from it ;it was fun .

 

I have always run 100% meth as it is only about $ 40 for a 5 gallon can and that lasts a LONG time . I've seen cars running 100% water actually lose HP so you really need to be carefull if you go that route not to use too much .

Randy
M7 Tuning

 

Here is more An Introduction to Water/Alcohol Injection Systems

 

yeah 5 gal. lasted me a very long time for 35 bucks it's a no brainer to run at least 60 percent . the 100 percent felt like 20 hp easy .

 

Yeah... I gotta play with mixes.... been a busy summer and just haven't gotten around to it...

 

bringing this back form the dead to amkea note. if you have the meth come on too soon you're actually losing power down low. if running a higher concentration of meth when injected at 5psi lets say youre not going to be running a rich mixture and might be robbing you of power. 7-8 psi should be good starting point of these cars. my last car while i was running meth i started the charge at 12 psi... but max boost was 26... when i started it at 5psi thinking it would help i watched my afr's go rich.. i tried tuning it out but it didnt work out well. there are write-ups about mixtures and when is a good time for injection etc but man is it a lot of reading. either way i believe i will be going with the DEvils Own kit soon... i had cooling mist on my last car. so its hard to jump to the devil lol