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Does anyone happen to know the part numbers for the White, Grey, and Red door panel retaining clips? I'm ordering parts for a X9331 pass through connector from ECS Tuning and I wanted to order some extra clips while I was at it. Door speaker replacements are on order!
Are the white clips in the door the same as the back side moulding and B & C pillar panels? I broke one while replacing the 6x9s.
I know I've seen the White and Red ones listed on NAM somewhere but after an hour of searching, I can't find the part number, nor can I get the ECS Tuning search engine to produce them.
Some confusion is in the name I think, xmas tree clip, moulding clip, moulding retainer, pop clip, pop retainer, all seem to mean the same part but searching for all those terms turns up zilch.
There should be a master sticky post with ALL known part numbers. It would be very easy to search that.
Thanks for any help you can provide!
--------EDIT---------
I'll answer my own post. I found the mother source, REALOEM.com. I've crossed referenced with ECS Tuning pages.
As far as I can tell from the diagrams, there are no "White Clips" in the doors. I've not taken mine off yet so I can't verify this yet. I've just seen references to them on NAM so I thought they where in there.
Last edited by TheCheatOSX; Mar 28, 2010 at 01:42 PM.
Reason: I answered my own questions.
After much searching, i could not find any info regarding the removal of door panels for my 07 s coup. i removed the door panels so that i could install sound damping material on the inside of the doors. here is how i did it: (this procedure is time consuming and some what difficult (three of the screws are hard to reach) so relax and go easy...
Excellent DIY. Instructions were quite good and saved my skin for the door handle swap out this weekend. Thanks a bunch!
Last edited by OPC; Jun 1, 2010 at 10:28 AM.
Reason: Clarity
Do you if you can purchase a panel removal tool kit? I am also looking to install some sound dampening material, but mainly to the rear of the car, to boot, under the rear seat. Also what products do you recommended? I bought some Stinger Expert Roadkill, which is thicker and cheaper than Dynamat.
I am going to do this because of the loud exhaust noise I got from installing a new exhaust system. While I like the sound and performance gain it is a little louder than I expected, and second my wife absolutely hates it.
Holy S is right. You wrote an incredibly detailed report of "how to"... thanks a ton. I recently picked up a '12 JCW hardtop and wanted to replace the door pulls with JCW carbon fiber. They are in the mail but taking time at car now to get equainted with task. Do I need to pull the entire panels off? I have removed the C part and lots of torx screws to look inside. It appears I do but maybe someone can answer this question for me, possibly saving me time.
Thanks Onionjello for the post---I couldn't have done this myself without such good instructions. Your photos were perfect!
That being said, I did have a few problems that I just wanted to highlight for others in hopes that they can avoid the trouble I had.
1. Dynamat location. I decided to dynamat the entire door skin and the inside of all plastic door panels. The result is nothing short of amazing. The car sounds rock solid now.
2. Torx screw sizes are T-25 and T-30. All of the larger grey screws which hold on the main door panel are T-30. Be sure to use the correct size bit otherwise you will strip the screws as they are very cheap.
3. The final three screws which are on the inside of the panel (attached to the lower window frame) are a HUGE pain. I decided NOT to reinstall them after I removed them and I don't appear to have any issues with the panel. The car has been road tested and there are no rattles from the door, the panel is also very securely fastened with all the other screws alone.
4. Clips. Be careful when trying to put the outer panel back on that you dont inadvertently smash the clips. I smashed two but was able to salvage them.
Again many thanks to Onionjello for his post, I couldn't have gotten through this without it!
For the last 3 screws... make sure your window is rolled up. It will give you a little more room to work, plus if you have tint, you don't want to risk scratching it.
Reviving this thread to provide one tip in removing the 3 torx screws on the back side of the panel. Once you get the bottom loose, start with outer (toward door handle) most screw and use the torx bit in a 1/4 in drive with a 1/4 in socket. The bit sits in there and you can reach up and ratchet the screws out in a few mins. Its so easy that it makes putting them back in reasonable.
Turns out my pass side door handle was missing a fastening screw on the inner left part of the handle. So the remaining screw eventually pulled out of the plastic. Poor quality control if you ask me. I had to fix the split in the handle with 2-ton epoxy and now need to find a fastener. Hope this is not a dealer only item.
Total time to get door panel off with this DIY thread was about an hour.
Did this last week, thanks to everyone for all the info, it made the removal and install very easy. I removed the bolts for the windows and it made getting the 3 torx screws at the rear of the panel relatively easy. On the passenger side I did something wrong because window's auto up feature would not work, but a quick reprogram of the windows took care of the issue (thanks again to info on this site).
A couple suggestions of my own:
1. The 5 Piece Auto Trim And Molding Tool Set from Harbor Freight is very useful for this. At $7 why not? Especially if you plan to do any more panel removal.
2. Threadlocker. I used medium strength loctite (what I typically use) on all the screws. Every screw I removed had some form of threadlocker on it from the factory.
Yep. Just wasted 3 hours of my life trying to get this door panel off, and finally gave up to come look here. THANK YOU ONION for posting this info all those years ago!!!!! It is STILL helping people!!!!! Never in my life have I heard of a door panel that is so hard to remove. Grrrrrrrrrrr..........
Completely understand that this is an old thread. No reminders needed
However it was crazy helpful in my attempt to complete Dynamat in the doors.
I did want to add a few more items that I didn't see in the OP ‘s removal sequence and I didn’t see it on the followup messages.
I’m extremely grateful that someone had the fortitude to work this out on their own, it’s not intuitive. The last 3 fasteners on the inside would have been impossible to locate without the writeup. I will not be replacing the screws through the back side. I will opt for a suggestion from another poster on the chain and fire 2 self tapers through the top front in the event I ever need to open it up again.
What I didn’t see was the description addressing the complete removal for the door panel to allow for easy access to install the Dynamat.
To anyone else attempting this, I removed the 4 screws that keep the Power window motor attached to the back of the door panel (the removal of the cable spool was located on a YouTube video. I removed the motor and the cable pulley on the back to allow full access to the inner door for sound dampener.
BTW, the window will remain in place (level at which you left it/should be all the way up) it will not fall down. I wasn’t sure what was going to happen when I removed the motor and cable spool.
I also used a Micro ratchet driver for the screws on the top inside of the door panel T30 bit. I also used the same micro driver to remove the forward 5mm fastener from the door handle. While it was all apart I thought it would be an great idea to replace the rubbers between the door handle and the door.
Lengthy process for the entire project it smooth sailing once your underway. This was for my R58. Drivers door tomorrow)
