Again as on the front. I must be a moron and can't imbed photos. So here it the narrative along with a compressed .pdf at the bottom for both the photos and the text together! I know mudflaps may be silly for some, but they make a big diffference and will look even better when the car gets lowered (hopefully later today!)

See you soon! Thanks NAM!

Hey folks,
(If you already read my Front Instructions located here: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...69#post1567369 some of this is a repeat. My apologies!)

Having not seen these on a car other than online I was uncertain how they were going to look. Once I had test fit them I was instantaneously aware how kool they made the body lines look, as well as additional protection both for Howard and my fellow motorists.

I wasn’t going to write a how-to on these mudflaps until I got the instructions in hand. WOW! From the dealer they are more than 15 pages! FIFTEEN Pages for MUDFLAPS! As I read through them and again as I was actually performing the installation I was amazed at how unclear the supplied instructions were and how complicated the installation actually was. So I have written my own. As always proceed at your own risk and use your head to prevent injury to your previous MINI and to yourself!

On to the rear:

Thankfully the factory mentions you are required to not only place the car on stands, but you need to remove both rear wheels to properly access the mounting screws. (Oddly enough having done this entire thing now front an rear, I think I could have done the rear on the ground with a 90 deg screwdriver ;-)

Raise the car onto jack stands. Never work on a car solely supported by a jack. Ramps won’t work here as you will need to remove the wheels to access the inner fender liners:

Then pick a side to start on. (I chose the right side hence the photos below.)

Remove the plastic pop-it screw. It is the inner one in the photo closest to the muffler. It will reveal a nice hole through both the fiber liner and the body. Leave the other one in the photo alone.

Then clean the entire area with prep-sol or similar to promote adhesion of the double sided tape later on.

Dry fit the flap. Using the hole revealed above, place one of the supplied screws through the flap, liner and body. While holding the inner clip with one hand, turn the screw with your other hand, all while rubbing your tummy and patting your head. I found it best to lay on the ground and attack it from that angle. Otherwise my arms and hands simply didn’t fit any other way. Don’t tighten all the way.

While holding the flap up and in position, use your bent awl to poke the other screw hole through the fender liner. Now again standing on your head, chewing gum and rubbing your belly attach the other screw. Like above don’t tighten all the way.

Here is where it gets tricky.

As with the front, split the red tape release from the adhesive tape pulling about 1” in both directions. DO NOT REMOVE ALL OF IT AT THIS TIME. (More on that later and see why for me it didn’t make any difference.)

Then while simultaneously checking the alignment of the flap (and then when this side is done BOTH sides for symmetry) slide the retaining clips into the flap and over the fender trim (as like the front). This is best performed with a bent awl or flathead screwdriver, pliers and shop rags to prevent marring the surfaces.

Pull the tabs of the release tape working out from the start point. The manual says use 5kg of pressure. I just pushed REAL hard and it NEVER seemed to stick. I first thought this was a result of not prepping the panels properly. However, since I used the same chemical on the front and it worked, that must not be it. I was able to eventually determine that on my set, the adhesive tape is not thick enough to extend past the lip of the plastic mud flap and reach the body. I didn’t have any tape at home so they are secured currently only with the screws, clips and whatever tape did touch the body. They certainly aren’t going anywhere. But I will be using my own thicker tape from work later this week. Yours may be just fine, but something to consider before starting in.

Now rinse and repeat (sorry that is shampoo), now go and do the other side. When complete re-attach the wheels, torque the bolts and using suitable and safe methods to lower the vehicle from the jack stands.

When you are done they look sharp! A nice and inexpensive modifcation, that increases function and beauty of the car! (You will see more of what I mean when we lower it later today!) Hope this how-to is a good supplement to the OEM printed ones.

 

Great write-up. I installed mine pretty much the same way and had the same issue with the tape on the rears. There's a fairly obvious gap on both rears that I'll take care of with beefier tape if they start to come off. Both my fronts got marred from a screwdriver while trying to install those darn clips. I didn't need to take off the front wheels though.

 

Do you have any images that show the placement of the clips?

 

Hi Kendres,

I looked in my deleted scenes folder and couldn't find any. In the photo of the flap on the car, you can see the recess in the flap where the clip goes. Sorry I can't be of any addl. assistance.

Let me know if I can help further!

 

I actually like the mud flaps on my car. It helps hide the rear control arms and things... and makes the car look a little lower from behind. Looks good

 

I agree!

 

When I am determining the location of the clips I simply hold them on the car where they should go when installed and use a white out pen to mark the fender liner. Then I remove the mudflap, slide the clips over the fender liner untile I can see the white out mark through the center of the hole for the clip. I clean the fender molding in preparation for the double stick tape. Put the mudflap back on the car for final installation, and the clips, white out and mudflap are all in proper alignment with each other. I never bother to poke a hole in the fender liner because the screws are self tapping in the soft fender liner anyway.

 

How do you remove the expander rivet?

 

thanks for asking. I must be missing something, but where is the rivet located? Do you have the JCW body kit installed? Just let me know so I can help!

 

So I tried installing my flaps today. The fronts went well. thanks to these instructions!!! But having trouble with the rears. My rear flaps didnt come with any screws or clips. Just the flaps, and these little squares that get stuck on somewhere? didnt see anything here mention that. I didnt put them on because I didnt know what to do since it didnt have any screws or clips. Any help please?

 

probably talking about the one at the bottom of the front mudflap where that push in style clip goes after removal

 

The squares are only used for cars without side markers....any standard speed clip/pinch clip will work, of course with the screws that match them.

 

Hey Adam, Installed all 4 flaps yesterday, and you're absolutely right after I was done it was obvious all of them could have been done on ramps (us old guys like things at a higher working level ) I did mine without the benefit of your detailed directions, I found these today while looking for info about driving lights.
You're also right on that they do make the car look lower and just better over-all.
One extra thing I did was to cut slots in the liner using a razor knife/box cutter in order to insert the clips for the 2 screws. My thinking was that if a screw came out there would be no need to crawl back under to replace the lost clip as well. I located and marked the edge of the inner clip on the liner then pushed the clip in place, then secured the flap in place to measure and cut the outside clip slot. It was an extra step but what the hey what's a couple extra minutes.

Take care.

 

Another tip. Put masking tape on the wheel liner then dry fit the map flap and mark with a felt pen or sharpie. This way you can see where the screw goes.

 

thats a good tip.