I was at PEP Boys and deciphering all the oil types was mind numbing. I mean Mobil had like 4 different types of 5w-30 Let a lone the Castrol options, and the Valveoline options...geez.

 

Just look for ACEA A3/B3 on the back of the bottle. That will narrow it way down.

 

Do any or all of you that change your own oil use torque wrenchs to spec the drain plug to 31Nm and the filter canister to 25Nm? Just wondering if I need to go buy a torque wrench. If so what's a good brand of torque wrench and how much?

 

Yes, torque both to spec. You can purchase a decent quality wrench at Sears or any hardware or home improvement store, or online. I've had mine for many years, and it's a Craftsman. It's the type with the torque set by twisting and then locking the handle, with a "click-stop" when proper torque is reached. They run about $50-$100, depending on size and torque range.

 

MINI highly recommends Mobil1 5w-30 or 5w-40. If it says "full synthetic", and has one of those viscosity ratings, it meets the MINI specification.
I use the "original" Mobil1 5w-30 full synthetic. They've added some "extended mileage" versions, but how they differ from the "regular" Mobil1 isn't explained very well on the Mobil1 site, so I'm sticking with the oil I've used for years, full synthetic Mobil1 5w-30.

 

The thing I was torn with tho was that Mobil1 5w-30 does not carry the A3/B3...only 0w-40...it seems to run fine on it and is good to know it will keep its protection qualities at high temps

 

There are lots of posts about different oil ratings and formulas, and which is the "best" oil. I'm confident that the Mobil1 5w-30 meets MINI specifications, as it's recommended by MINI. If you want the exact spec oil, use the OEM MINI brand.

 

Yeah it sucks cuz my dealer wants $17 per quart...I'm basically forced to go with aftermarket oil

 

What are you kidding?!!?! your dealer needs a good smack across the face if that's the case. Mine charges 4 bucks and change per quart.

 

Yeah its pretty crazy...I had to go talk to the parts guy and thats how much he said it was per quart I guess when its time for another oil change I will go talk with them and see if they can be reasonable...more like $17 for 3 quarts

 

Always use MINI recommended oil and fuel only. The engineers know the best.

 

Checkercoop. I'm assuming that your dealer is Downtown Mini right? Wow. $17 a quart and no lube for you if you bend over and buy it at the dealer.... Ow. Does any dealers sell Mini oil online? Or is it too expensive to ship?

 

Yes. Don't get me wrong I love Downtown MINI...great service and nice people, but I think since they are in such an expensive area, they must keep prices high....so yeah the $17 per quart oil really is a bummer

I've looked online, and I think this dealer:
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...?siteid=214217

will be selling it soon because they have opened up a "fluids" section under the maintenance link toward the bottom, but yes I think they shipping is whats gunna take away from online orders because it will probably cost quite a bit

I have read on the forums of many people using the Mobil 1 0w-40 and no one has had any adverse affects...its the only modil 1 that covers the A3/B3 spec, and I think the 40w will help us here in florida to keep our engines protected during the summer

 

Cool. I'll be looking for Mobil 1 0w-40 when I do my oil changes then.

 

Changed my break-in oil this afternoon at 1130 miles. Processes was uneventful and easy. If you have the time I suggest letting the oil drain 30 mins or more. Drained 4 quarts. Oil was pretty dark but seemed clean. No metal shavings visible on filter. I did loosen filler cap and the filter cap. Oil drained freely and when I did remove the filter cap there was absolutely no spillage, not even a drip. Wearing gloves when removing the plug is advisable because you WILL get oil on your hand the moment you crack the seal. I put in approx 4.3 quarts and oil is at the MAX on the dipstick after letting set 5 minutes after a hard run around the block. Filter and 5 qt. oil from dealer $56. Torque wrench, T50 torx, 27mm socket, 6 in. extension at Sears for $60. Changing the lifeblood of your road hugging baby and knowing it was done right, priceless.

 

did my break in change at 1190 and was uneventful. Oil was still fairly clean. Found one little piece of metal shaving.

Got my oil from Mini of Nashville for $6 per quart. Got the filter from DetroitTuned for $10.

 

just did mine at 2k miles... very eventful. i dont seem to have lifted the car up very well and was very hesitant about the whole thing. went and purchased 5 quarts of 5w30 castrol full synthetic and a filter from the dealer. also purchased jack stands and floor jack set.

i lifted the car in such an awkward way, i ended up using 1 jack stand, 1 floor jack and 1 car jack that came with the cooper. dont ask where i placed them because i dont know either.
i let the oil drain, that wasnt a problem, no leaks, the oil made it into a proper dispenser waiting to be dealt with at the local dumpster.
the filter was annoying... the coolant kept on falling in and the wires that feed out of the coolant container were so contorted and not flexible... i realize i dont have the proper size for the oil filter cap so i try using a vise grip only to chip one of the 8 sides of the cap... wonderful.
I filled the car up back with the new oil and let the car run for a min b4 i checked the oil level. that dipstick is satan himself i tell you. one side of the dipstick reads too high, where as the other side is mid level...
tomorrow, i will purchase the proper size socket and an extention...

you think it will be bad if i change the filter after changing the oil?
what happens if i overtighten the bolts.. i dont have that torque thingy...

 

Hey Pillar,
Sorry you had such a time changing your oil. I used a couple of 2x4's that I drove up onto to lift the car about 3.5 inches. It was easy to get to the drain plug. I am sure car ramps would work well but you really don't need to lift the car much to comfortably reach the drain plug. I know its a little late now but I highly recommend getting a 27mm socket and torque wrench with 6" extension and a T50 Torx nut for the drain plug. It made my change a piece of cake and I knew everything was tighten to spec. 31Nm for drain plug and 27Nm for filter cap. Did your washer come off freely when you drained the oil? Mine didn't and I have heard others having to pry theirs off.

 

A couple of 2x4's? A 2x4 board on edge is only about 1.5" wide. I'm not sure how that would support the car. I'm sure I'm missing something, how did you set them up?

 

i read the post on the 2x4... but i didnt know where exactly to place them because it was on an r53 post...
i have a 2x6 that i was using but i placed each end on the edge of the jacking points... not between. the wood started to bend obviously and so i stopped there. is the 2x4 suppose to be placed between the two jacking points under the side skirts? wont that damage the car?
i already changed the oil but this is for future reference... i also plan on buying some preintercooler pipes from m7 and i know i have to jack up the car at some point the proper way.
the cooper ring for the drain plug stayed in place and so i had to pick at it a little bit with a flat head...
what are the consequences of over tightening the bolts?

 

I took and 2x4x8 plank and cut it in half. Then cut each half into a 2 1/2 ft section and 1 1/2 ft section. I then cut 45 degree angles on one end and nailed the two non angled ends flush so as to give a staggered rise. The one 8 foot plank will make two 3.5 inch risers that you can drive the front wheels upon. May sound complicated but only took about 10 minutes to build if you have the materials and tools. Works great!

 

Thanks, that makes more sense. An 8" wide ramp would be perfect, and it sounds pretty easy (and cheap) to make.

 

I am sure that they do.

But they don't run the company. nor the EPA.

I am sure that they do the best with the constraints they are given.

Just realize that the interests of the company and shareholders are not necessarily aligned with those of the driver.

Engineers are given a set of goals: regulatory requirements, performance, cost, etc. etc. Their job is to come up with the best solution that fits the constraints.

Regulatory requirements and TCO goals, IMO, have led us to the current situation where auto manufacturers recommend/require that you use oil that will ultimately reduce the life of your engine.

I'll go with the recommendation of my experienced auto mechanic, who has been tearing down and examining engines throughout BMW's transition to using, as he puts it "artificial dinosaur pi**". He's unable to come up with a rational reason - at least as regards engine protection - for using so thin an oil. He's observed that in many cases, BMW changed the recommendation without making ANY engine changes from one model year to the next.

 

Did he say anything about Mobil 1 0w-40 offering better protection? Or at least a better alternative?

 

jtara, I can't disagree with all of what you say, but I would question parts of it. I run an '87 911 on the track, and rebuilt the engine a year ago. This car has racing valve springs, no variable valve timing, and puts a lot of stress on the cam lobes and rockers. On this car I run either Brad Penn or Redline 20W-50 racing oil, and would never run Mobil 1 with it's lack of wear additives.

However the Mini is a different beast. Cam pressure is significantly less and you have fairly complex, oil fed, variable valve timing mechanisms to deal with. For the Mini I am using the German Castrol 0W-30 every 6 months, and whatever the dealer puts in the other 6 months. Unlike the old engines, when I hear of an engine problem in a modern BMW engine, it is usually either sludge related, or a failure of the VANOS system. Both I think are related to long oil change intervals.

As the saying goes, you pay your money and you take your chances. In another ten years we may know which of us was right