R53 gas pedal question
R53 gas pedal question
I have a 2006 r53 that the check engine light came on. Dealer said code read a bad gas pedal, which would cost about $550. They couldn't guarantee that this would fix the problem and said after replacing that it still might need a wiring harness for another $1,000. The car has 73,000 miles on it.
I had the code cleared but it came back on and the car goes to limp home mode periodically
Does the gas pedal and wiring harness diagnosis sound correct.
I had the code cleared but it came back on and the car goes to limp home mode periodically
Does the gas pedal and wiring harness diagnosis sound correct.
Do you know anyone else with an 06 Cooper S? If so try swaping out the pedals--only 1 clip holding it in and the wiring connector. 5 minutes tops. clear the codes and see what happens. Part # for a new one is 35426786280 and can be purchased for under $120 at ECS. If the replacement pedal doesn't work then it may be the wiring harness--check the connector for corrosion before swaping in a replacement pedal.
Sometimes you will get a throttle position sensor code , think its location B for the floor for the error code. If MINI ran the computer and it said the floor accel position sensor , its most likely it. Do you have a manual transmission or an automatic, there are two different part numbers ?
Stainless Steel Inlay Accelerator Pedal - Manual transmission.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/35426786280/

&&
Stainless Steel Inlay Accelerator Pedal - Automatic transmission.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/35426786279/ES253357/
Thanks
Stainless Steel Inlay Accelerator Pedal - Manual transmission.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/35426786280/

&&
Stainless Steel Inlay Accelerator Pedal - Automatic transmission.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/35426786279/ES253357/
Thanks
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Any idea if a "sprint booster" or a knockoff/clone is installed....
If it is...try uninstalling it...
If the dealer says "try a $500 part" but it might not work....I'd run....especially since the part cost is only $115!!!
Think your dealer is picking your wallet.....
If it is...try uninstalling it...
If the dealer says "try a $500 part" but it might not work....I'd run....especially since the part cost is only $115!!!
Think your dealer is picking your wallet.....
Thanks for the replies. The car is a 6spd. I pulled the pedal off today and cleaned the connections. Put it back together and it works great. All warning lights went out. Not sure how long it will last but even if I need to replace the pedal I see how easy and inexpensive it is
Thanks again. I think I may have saved myself about $600
Thanks again. I think I may have saved myself about $600
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Glad if worked for you, I had the same problem once and I did clean the connections but it returned with the CEL throttle B location and then I just swapped in a new one. Hope yours last and good luck.
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I would suspect that it is actually the pedal and not the contacts but hopefully it will continue to work great for you.
I just had the same problem, occurred twice both times after having the pedal in a single location for some time (cruising on the highway) then coming to a stop the car stalled and went into limp mode. Once an engine restart corrected the problem the other time required a battery disconnect to clear the problem. Just information in case it happens again so you can get going again without a tow.
I believe the pedal rheostat wiper and coil tends to wear over time and become intermittent at certain spots (dead spots). I suspect if the pedal stays in a dead spot too long the computer goes crazy and thus into limp mode.
If I was you I would purchase a pedal and install the new pedal, very easy to install, so you do not get stuck on the side of the road or in a dangerous situation on the road when the car unexpectedly dies.
I just had the same problem, occurred twice both times after having the pedal in a single location for some time (cruising on the highway) then coming to a stop the car stalled and went into limp mode. Once an engine restart corrected the problem the other time required a battery disconnect to clear the problem. Just information in case it happens again so you can get going again without a tow.
I believe the pedal rheostat wiper and coil tends to wear over time and become intermittent at certain spots (dead spots). I suspect if the pedal stays in a dead spot too long the computer goes crazy and thus into limp mode.
If I was you I would purchase a pedal and install the new pedal, very easy to install, so you do not get stuck on the side of the road or in a dangerous situation on the road when the car unexpectedly dies.
Last edited by quikmni; Aug 12, 2014 at 10:34 AM.
Yep, had it happen twice to me after the clean , then replaced new and ok since. Scares the crap out of you, get the stumble then the Check engine light and read the code , throttle position sensor. Throttle does nothing. makes it feel like there is something majorly wrong with the engine, been there done that.
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Yea, been there done that. Glad I could help.
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Yep, had it happen twice to me after the clean , then replaced new and ok since. Scares the crap out of you, get the stumble then the Check engine light and read the code , throttle position sensor. Throttle does nothing. makes it feel like there is something majorly wrong with the engine, been there done that.
Would you suggest a new pedal?
Thanks 👍
Yes, Its the sign thats somewhere on that electrical plate inside on the the sensor is worn, when you hit it, you get the cutout. Its will not through a CEL until its a permeant error. Get it replaced. Otherwise you will be stuck on the side of the road.
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Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172

MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
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