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A turn toward the dark side of Plastidip

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Old Sep 23, 2013 | 05:34 PM
  #1  
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A turn toward the dark side of Plastidip

One the guys at work did the grill on his car, so it looked really easy and it was. I did the grill surround, headlight, and taillight trim. Total cost $6.12 Considering the gas cap and door handles, still undecided.

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Old Sep 23, 2013 | 07:29 PM
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That's the beauty.. Just peel it off if you decide it's not for you!
 
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Old Sep 23, 2013 | 07:47 PM
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I like me some chrome... but that's pretty sweet!
 
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Old Sep 23, 2013 | 07:58 PM
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I like what you did to the car with the plasti dip....I would keep the door handles and gas cap chrome
 
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Old Sep 23, 2013 | 08:11 PM
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We keep the Plasti Dip in stock, but it's hard as I always find stuff I want to dip. Your MINI looks good.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2013 | 10:05 PM
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I just red plastidipped my colorline. It looks pretty good but I have to redo the passenger side.

Unfortunately, I can't seem to attach a photo from my iPhone.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2013 | 10:07 PM
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Of course it said there was an error, but it attached the photo 3 times. Not in love with this mobile app. Sorry
 
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Old Sep 24, 2013 | 05:10 AM
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Thanks for the kind words, you can get great results with very little skill.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2013 | 06:10 AM
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Originally Posted by LarriB
I just red plastidipped my colorline. It looks pretty good but I have to redo the passenger side.

Unfortunately, I can't seem to attach a photo from my iPhone.
Looks great. How is that applied? Do you need to remove the trim or does it remain in place for application? Is it spray or a dip. Can you customize the color to Chili Red or is it their base red?
 
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Old Sep 24, 2013 | 06:25 AM
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there's tons of info on plasti-dip out there. You can custom color, but I think its not quite as easy as buying the spray paint cans (but worth it if you are doing a large area- then you buy a gallon, thin it, and use a paint sprayer). I just started experimenting with it myself. The stuff is pretty amazing, and if I can do it, anyone can!

I am thinking about dipping the colorline in mine too - currently it is the checkerboard, which I'm not in love with. I either want to do it solid flat-black, or pepper-white like the car. So LarryB, did you remove it? If for no other reason to avoid some of the overspray on the porous bits?

I learned a lot from dipyourcar

oh, and LarryB, yea, the app is terrible. But I've found that when it gives me the errors, just hit cancel and it is still successful. Works the same with just making a post (it ALWAYS says it is a duplicate post, but isn't)
 
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Old Sep 24, 2013 | 06:34 AM
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Here is a tip I learned last year while Plasti-dipping everything that made sense and some things that didn't. Make sure your cans of Plasti-Dip are not cold, this is especially important as we head into winter. Soak the can in a sink of warm water for 10 minutes before you spray. If the can is cold when you apply the product it will appear textured and blotchy. Warm (or not cold) cans will produce a smooth satin finish.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2013 | 06:36 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Swimbaxter
Here is a tip I learned last year while Plasti-dipping everything that made sense and some things that didn't. Make sure your cans of Plasti-Dip are not cold, this is especially important as we head into winter. Soak the can in a sink of warm water for 10 minutes before you spray. If the can is cold when you apply the product it will appear textured and blotchy. Warm (or not cold) cans will produce a smooth satin finish.
the one thing I did dip so far IS slightly textured. But I don't mind it where it is. But other parts of the car I definitely want a smoother texture. Thanks for the tip!
 
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Old Sep 24, 2013 | 01:43 PM
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Thanks for the tips. I am toying with the idea of dipping the front bake ducts Red or attemping to blend it ChiliRed.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2013 | 04:04 PM
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Dipping the calipers would look fantastic. Not sure im brave enough to mess with the brakes though. Nor do i have time to remove the wheels to do it all properly. I would rather drop my car off and pay someone to do it haha
 
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Old Sep 24, 2013 | 05:33 PM
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I removed the color line in order to Plastidip it the standard red color. I always get some kind of texture when I do this - it never is really smooth. The color line is below the curved checkboard portions of the dashboard. I would not personally plastic dip the curved checkerboard because I don't get a very smooth glossy finish out of this. I think it works fine on the colorline because that is already textured. However I have a hard plastic colorline. I have seen many MINIs that have a soft plastic colorline, and I don't know how plastidip would work on this.

As to doing the brake calipers, I don't think I would do that. Brake calipers get hot and plastic dip is not meant to get hot. Any Autozone will have a brake caliper paint. I suspect the brake ducts would be fine.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2013 | 06:01 PM
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In order to get a consistently smooth finish with PD you should first warm up the can in a jar of warm water. Do this for at least 5 minutes. Then shake the **** out of the can. At least a full minute. The 3rd and most important detail to get a smooth finish is lay the first two coats light to build a base for the last 3 coats. Those coats should be wet and heavy. Almost to the point where it would run, in overlapping patterns. Cross the last path by 50%. Allow 15 minutes between layers. Stop at coat 5. Always try and keep the can 6" away from the work and try to keep the spray at 90 degrees to the work surface. Keeps the overspray down..

Best of luck. PD is some amazing stuff and had gotten a bad wrap for a long time. Thats slowly changing.. Any questions PM me or email me john@dipfanatic.com
 
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Old Sep 25, 2013 | 04:36 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by TJANK
Thanks for the tips. I am toying with the idea of dipping the front bake ducts Red or attemping to blend it ChiliRed.
A base coat of white will make the red pop more, but it will be lighter. Mounted on the car is a base (2 coats) of white. Unmounted to the car, next to the car is a base of black (2 coasts).

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Here you can see the two choices (I did 2 wheels of each to decide what I liked better and never changed it. Driver's side is the brighter red (white under) and Passenger's side is the base of black. The one unmounted on the DS looks a little pick from the bright sun and my crappy iphone camera.

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Last edited by yetti96; Sep 25, 2013 at 04:42 AM.
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Old Sep 25, 2013 | 05:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Craig Curtis
Dipping the calipers would look fantastic. Not sure im brave enough to mess with the brakes though. Nor do i have time to remove the wheels to do it all properly. I would rather drop my car off and pay someone to do it haha
While PD can take more heat than most people think, I would not put it on brake calipers, instead use a brake specific paint meant for the abuse. I have done my exhaust tips with no issue, but melting or flames on my brakes would not be cool (not sure how PD does above 312F).

http://www.plastidip.com/blog/2012/0...dip-tech-tips/
 
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Old Sep 25, 2013 | 05:29 AM
  #19  
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A tip for using plastidip:

If you are having a hard time getting the old stuff off, spray some WD-40 on it and let it sit for a few minutes...You can basically wipe the plasti-dip off after. It gets so soft you can draw in it with your fingernail.
 
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Old Sep 25, 2013 | 06:55 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by LarriB
I removed the color line in order to Plastidip it the standard red color. I always get some kind of texture when I do this - it never is really smooth. The color line is below the curved checkboard portions of the dashboard. I would not personally plastic dip the curved checkerboard because I don't get a very smooth glossy finish out of this. I think it works fine on the colorline because that is already textured. However I have a hard plastic colorline. I have seen many MINIs that have a soft plastic colorline, and I don't know how plastidip would work on this.

As to doing the brake calipers, I don't think I would do that. Brake calipers get hot and plastic dip is not meant to get hot. Any Autozone will have a brake caliper paint. I suspect the brake ducts would be fine.
I thought the colorline was the checkerboard. oops. Anyway, mine has a softer colorline. From what I've seen, it might not be a good idea to use plasti dip on this (too porous?). But a little texture on the checkerboard part would not bother me

and @yetti - wheels look cool. I think I like the white basecoat a little better, IMHO...
 
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Old Sep 27, 2013 | 07:06 PM
  #21  
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PD will hold up on calipers. It's been done a lot on the dipyourcar forums. I prefer the G2 paint kit.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2013 | 07:08 PM
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Grovedale,
Take the time and do your badges next. It's just as easy..
 
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Old Sep 27, 2013 | 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Craig Curtis

I thought the colorline was the checkerboard. oops. Anyway, mine has a softer colorline. From what I've seen, it might not be a good idea to use plasti dip on this (too porous?). But a little texture on the checkerboard part would not bother me

and @yetti - wheels look cool. I think I like the white basecoat a little better, IMHO...
I don't think the soft color line is porous so I think Plastidip would work.

2010 R57S Chili Red w/ Blackout
 
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Old Sep 30, 2013 | 05:24 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by ALL4TURBO
PD will hold up on calipers. It's been done a lot on the dipyourcar forums. I prefer the G2 paint kit.
You are pretty much the biggest user of PD on here, but man the way I get heat into my brakes...I would be hesitant to give it a try.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2013 | 06:31 PM
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"Wet and Heavy" - now you tell me!

I did five coats of my OE Holeys (? forgotten how to spell them - have not been here for ages!) wheels (blackout project).

First coat light 50% coverage (as per dipmycar) - and dipmycar never said "wet and heavy"!!!

so thanks for saying it.

result is I just used 1.5 cans for 4 wheels - so despite 5 coats quite a light (so easily scratchable) coat of paint.

so far looks fine - but will probably have to redo (am in MA so will wait until spring as I do not have a garage).





Originally Posted by ALL4TURBO
In order to get a consistently smooth finish with PD you should first warm up the can in a jar of warm water. Do this for at least 5 minutes. Then shake the **** out of the can. At least a full minute. The 3rd and most important detail to get a smooth finish is lay the first two coats light to build a base for the last 3 coats. Those coats should be wet and heavy. Almost to the point where it would run, in overlapping patterns. Cross the last path by 50%. Allow 15 minutes between layers. Stop at coat 5. Always try and keep the can 6" away from the work and try to keep the spray at 90 degrees to the work surface. Keeps the overspray down..

Best of luck. PD is some amazing stuff and had gotten a bad wrap for a long time. Thats slowly changing.. Any questions PM me or email me john@dipfanatic.com
 
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